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Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara and the Sherpa setting off on their bid to climb Everest in winter without supplementary oxygen
Photo by Alex Txikon
Basque alpinist Alex Txikon
Photo by Alex Txikon

Everest in winter: Alex Txikon & Co embark on decisive attempt


The expedition led by Alex Txikon currently attempting a winter ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen has entered the final stage. The climbers have ascended to Camp 2.

The Everest winter expedition led by Alex Txikon has now entered its final phase. After a failed bid in February 2017, the team is back in Nepal attempting to make a winter ascent of the highest mountain in the world without supplementary oxygen.

As previously reported, the Basque mountaineer reached Everest Base Camp towards the end of 2017 accompanied by an extremely strong team comprised of veteran Sherpa and also Ali Sadpara, the Pakistani mountaineer who in 2016 completed the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat together with Txikon and Italy’s Simone Moro.

After having prepared the route up to 7850 meters, and after having acclimatized with a rare winter ascent of 7161 meter Pumori immediately opposite Everest, the team waited patiently for a weather window which is now on its way. Jet stream winds are forecast to slow down on 24 and 25 February.

The team set off from Base Camp this morning and negotiated the most dangerous section, i.e. the infamous Icefall, before continuing on to Camp 2. Txikon tweeted: "The time has come. We are already in Camp 2, the whole team ready waiting for good weather. First and last chance to get to the summit of Everest in winter without artificial oxygen. We expect the summit day to be on the 24th or 25th. We need all your support! GO!"

It is worth remembering that on 17 February 1980 the Polish mountaineers Krzystof Wielicki and Leszek Cichy made the historic first winter ascent of Everest - with the use of supplementary oxygen. Their groundbreaking ascent marked a turning point in Himalayan mountaineering as Everest was also the first 8000er to be climbed in winter. According to the Himalayan Database, only 15 people have climbed Everest in the coldest season and all with supplementary O2 except for Ang Rita Sherpa, who reached the 8850 m summit on 22 December 1987 at 15:20 without O2. It’s worth noting that the Korean expedition he had been climbing with had prepared the route before the start of winter and that the winter equinox started at 4:45 on Ang Rita’s summit day.

Link: Everest 2018 Winter Expedition b.c. 5364 m, FB Alex Txikon


NEWS / Related news:
Pumori winter ascent by Alex Txikon & Co in preparation for Everest
Pumori winter ascent by Alex Txikon & Co in preparation for Everest
In preparation for the winter ascent without supplementary oxygen of Everest, Basque alpinist Alex Txikon and Pakistani mountaineer Ali Sadpara climbed Pumori, the beautiful 7161m summit in front of Everest. Nuri and Temba Sherpa also reached the summit. The report by Domenico Perri.
Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon
Nanga Parbat: summit and first winter ascent by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon
On Friday 26 February 2016 Italy's Simone Moro, Spain's Alex Txikon and Pakistan's Ali Sadpara successfully carried out the historic first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m, Karakorum, Pakistan). Italy's Tamara Lunger stopped her bid on the ridge below the summit. Towards 20:00 circa (Pakistan time) all four alpinists returned to Camp 4 at 7100m.
Alex Txikon ends Everest winter expedition
Alex Txikon ends Everest winter expedition
Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon has abandoned his attempt at climbing Everest in winter after retreating from Camp 2 (6400m) due to high winds.




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