The routes

The magnificent Valle di Tures still conservers its typical South-Tyrolean charm, far-removed from the modern city stress. The valley as an ideal background to Franziskus, the icefall which is marked by a first steep section and it's two drips, which...

Nice icefall, one of the best in the area, not to be missed. Even if it faces SW the icefall receives the sun at the start of February only.

The first pitch starts 10m to the left of the route "Pustertaler - Halbgefrohrenes". The pegs are clearly visible on this first section, and the first belay is shared with "Pustertaler - Halbgefrohrenes". The second pitch climbs left above the...

The mixed climb MFG is located on the Rastentalfall, to the left of the classic "Crazy Diamond". The outing is a beautiful mixed climb that ascends, via a series of good hooks, thin cracks and hanging ice daggers.

Demanding mixed climb immediately to the left of Räuber Hotzenplotz and therefore to the left of the famous icefall Koflerbach close to Sand in Taufers. Pitches 3 and 4 offer some challenging mixed climbing past thin ice. The crux on...

Difficult mixed climb to the left of the famous icefall Koflerbach close to Sand in Taufers. The final 6 meters on the last pitch require huge power and stamina.

"One of the most beautiful routes I know of these difficulties. The combination of rock, ice and frozen turf make it unique." Utopia was climbed onsight, without adding bolts, all pegs used were left in-situ.