Thomas Bubendorfer, Rein in Taufers, Max Sparber

1 / 8

No Country for Old Men - Koflerbach

Italy>Trentino - Alto Adige>Eastern Alps>Riva di Tures>Koflerbach

Simon Gietl

Main article

Traduci in

1 / 8

Thomas Bubendorfer establishing pitch 4 of No Country for Old Men at Rein in Taufers, Italy, with Max Sparber

archive Thomas Bubendorfer

Beauty

First ascent

Thomas Bubendorfer, Max Sparber 13-15/01/2019

Simon Gietl

Length

190m

Difficulty

M9 / WI5

Period

Early winter. As of the end of January the route receives the sun.

Link

www.bubendorfer.com

Published on

24/01/2019

Route

Demanding mixed climb immediately to the left of Räuber Hotzenplotz and therefore to the left of the famous icefall Koflerbach close to Sand in Taufers. Pitches 3 and 4 offer some challenging mixed climbing past thin ice. The crux on pitch 4 (1 bolt) involves moving onto a ramp covered by a 3-6 cm layer of ice, with a 10m run-out . The last pitch, in our opinion M6+, a flat slab, may be easier without snow. We had 40 cm of powder during the first ascent.

Access

From Bruneck head towards Sand in Taufers and then Rein in Taufers. Park in the car park on the right and follow the forest track for 15 minutes (clearly visibile)

Itinerary

P1: A short M5+ piece leads to piton, then Wi 5+ and thin ice on a ramp, belay at big tree. 45 m.
P2: Wi 3. 25 m.
P3: Wi 6, M6 (?), thin ice and frozen earth. 1 bolt after 20 meters. 30m. Belay bolt protected
P4: Wi 6, then M8, hardly easier (bolt + 2 pitons), then pretty thin ice on ramp with 10 m-runout. 35m. Belay bolt protected
P5: Wi 6 (very thin ice to bolt), then M7+, (another bolt, 4 pitons). 25m. Belay bolt protected
P6: M6+, 3 pitons (15m on rock, then 15 meters to trees).

Descent

Abseil down the route. Alternatively, walkd down through the forest for 30 minutes.

Gear

10 cm ice screws only (3 will do, plus a longer one for the belay after the second pitch). 1 BD Cam 0,3 for pitch 1 and 6 quickdraws.