The routes

One of the most coveted climbs in the Central Alps, it represented a huge leap in terms of quality in Val Masino and even today is often considered one of the most difficult slab climbs in the Alps. A series...

Established in autumn 2019, El Despertador Fotonico is the latest addition to Escudo del Qualido. It tackles a line on the righthand side and was climbed ground-up with trad gear where possible and is otherwise equipped with 10 mm stainless...

Goulotte del Pioda is a fun climb, with moderate difficulties, clearly visible from Val di Mello. In spring it is usually in good condition and the hardest section is the start, which appeared circa 20 years ago when the Pioda...

A logical sequence of slender cracks to the left of Io non ho paura up the Scoglio delle Metamorfosi. In 2014 Pietro Biasini, Daniele Bianchi and Mirko Masè established the first seven pitches, in November 2015 Bianchi and Masé completed...

Joy Division was first ascended by local climber Simone Pedeferri and is a combination of three routes, the first three pitchs of Forse si, forse no (Igor Koller, Peter Machai, Miro Piala, 1996) followed by Mellodramma (Gianni & Paolo Covelli,...

Few words are needed to describe one of the most beautiful and feared routes in Val di Mello. For those who love friction climbing, the black widow is a highly prized rock climb. A true Vitali valley masterpiece.

Luna Nascente can rightly be considered a true pearl of the Alps, an absolutely fantastic route in Val di Mello. A beautiful perfect series of cracks and flakes on fantastic rock which has few equals in the rest of Europe....

One of the most beautiful slab routes in the entire Val di Mello, even if the long run-outs put off numerous parties. Recently rebolted. Excellent rock. The third pitch is slightly exposed.

Fun icefall which rarely comes into condition, marked by a thin drip which descends down the dark compact granite.

Oceano Irrazionale was first route to introduce the grade VII in the Central Alps. Irrational Ocean is a fantastic line up long vertical cracks and a prodigious traverse right, la "Tromba", to reach the suspended pulpit. Certainly one of the...

Logical and beautiful line first ascended ground-up by Daniele Bianchi and Simone Pedeferri in June 2016 up the Mongolfiera face in Val di Mello, above Scoglio delle Metamorfosi. The route is composed of 9 pitches, of which the two crux...

Vascello Fantasma in Valle del Ferro climbs up an excellent quality rock face in a particularly remote and evocative corner of Val Masino, despite being clearly visible from the valley floor (and even from the San Martino webcam!). The route ascends...

Via Napoleone is an alpine climb in Val Torrone (SO), above Val Masino, established ground-up past the most obvious lines of weakenss.