The routes

74
Routes in archive
Glacier Rond
Freeride
Glacier Rond
5.1, E3
Even though it is one of the classic Chamonix descents, the Glacier Rond is a technical itinerary that requires good ropework and experience with glacier skiing techniques.Be careful on the traverse to enter the initial couloir, as it’s often icy....
Goulotte Bournier Vogler
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Goulotte Bournier Vogler - Aiguille du Midi
III/4 M
Easy ascent at altitude. The fast approach and easy return render this an ideal climb to get to know the area.
Goulotte Laratoun
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Goulotte Laratoun - Grand Capucin
III/4+ M5
Fun climb in a great alpine setting close to the Grand Capucin.
Goulotte Perroux Profit
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Goulotte Perroux Profit - Aiguille du Midi
III/4 M5
Nice climb at altitude. The fast approach and easy return render this a classic outing in the Mont Blanc range.
Grand Couloir Milleottocentocinquanta (1850)
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Grand Couloir Milleottocentocinquanta (1850) - Tour des Jorasses
ED M6+
Amazing mixed climb up the couloir located between the Tour des Jorasses pillar and Punta Massimo.
Happy Birthday
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Happy Birthday - Aiguille de l'Évêque
AI4, M6, ED
Happy Birthday winds its way up a long couloir, past ice runnels and compact snow up the righthand side of the south face of Aiguille de l'Évêque in the Grandes Jorasses group of the Mont Blanc massif. 1000m high, it...
Indurain tiene dos huevos
Climbing routes
Indurain tiene dos huevos - Trident du Tacul
ED, 7a max
Highly rewarding, logical route that follows a series of cracks up the Trident du Tacul. Some belays have no in-situ pro and require friends. The grades of some pitches have been modified after the probable first repeat at the hands...
Jottnar
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Jottnar - Mont Blanc
VIII, 8
Jottnar is a tricky, not obvious line. A blank canvas of corners and grooves leading back up towards the top of the Cosmiques Arete": four pitches with difficulties up to Scottish grade VIII,8. The 60m fourth pitch leads right onto...
Koala Pirla
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Koala Pirla - Grand Flambeau
TD+, M6
Beatuiful, logical climb up Gran Flambeau; modern style with some delicate moves.
Kuffner Ridge - Frontier Ridge
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Kuffner Ridge - Frontier Ridge - Mont Maudit
IV / D / 55°
One of the most beautiful and classic ridge traverses in the Mont Blanc massif, set in the magnificent high altitude ambient. Varied, up mixed terrain and with snowy sections that are deciedly knife-edge and airy (Gino Buscaini).Were we to define...
L'isola che non c’è
Climbing routes
L'isola che non c’è - Aiguille Croux
7b+ max./7a obbl. RS3+
L'isola che non c’è was first ascended ground-up over a period of 5 days in the cleanest style possible, i.e. with very few bolts along the pitches, a handful of insitu pegs where the rock accepts them. All the rest...
L'or du temps
Climbing routes
L'or du temps - Grand Capucin
7c+
L'or du temps was climbed over four days in summer 2017 by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez. The route shares the start of the Bonatti route, then breaks left after 2.5 pitches and continues independently and directly past steep, mainly...
La Tête du Dragon
Climbing routes
La Tête du Dragon - Vierge du Flambeau
7a
An interesting route on the north ridge of Vierge du Flambeau (3244m) in the Mont Blanc massif which is good enough to rival any classic. It’s a perfect alternative: peaceful, isolated, on stellar rock, and just 45 minutes from the...
La Vie in Rosa
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
La Vie in Rosa - Grand Flambeau
TD+, M6
Logical climb up Gran Flambeau, established while the Giro d'Italia visited Mont Blanc. Pitch 3 climbs a magnificent corner; 4 bolts improve safety while breaching the overhang.
Le Fou de l’Aiguille
Climbing routes
Le Fou de l’Aiguille - Aiguille du Midi
ABO-, 7b max
A beautiful and varied route. The second pitch, a perfect 45m crack, belongs to the Mazeaud. A short traverse left (bolt) is followed by two yosemite-like pitches with a series of finger and hand jams, and overhanging laybacks. The final...
Le manteau de l'Eveque
Climbing routes
Le manteau de l'Eveque - Aiguille de l'Eveque
7a+
Nice route in a mountain environment, up granite marked by plenty of knobs. The bolts are fairly run-out at times, though never dangerously so, and a small trad rack is recommended for additional protection.


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