The routes

1157
Routes in archive
Fuori come Merli
Climbing routes
Fuori come Merli - Eldorado - Chiusa di Ceraino
7c
Opened ground-up, using skyhooks to place the bolts, Fuori come Merli is 120m high and spectacular. Beautiful beyond belief, the first two pitches that are a work of art of Mother Nature. The central roof tackles a logical line before...
Dawn Wall
Climbing routes
Dawn Wall - El Capitan
VII 5.14d or 5.14d
On 14 January 2015, after 19 days on the wall and years of efforts, American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed the historic first free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA. Almost 1000m high and with...
Piccolo Diavolo
Climbing routes
Piccolo Diavolo - Monte Colodri
8a
Piccolo Diavolo was bolted in 2011 during three days and breaches excellent rock. Six long pitches climb the full height of the South Face of Colodri, with difficulties up to 8a past obligatory 7a climbing. The first pitches are a...
Infiniti Spazi, Aikido, Tai Chi
Climbing routes
Infiniti Spazi, Aikido, Tai Chi - Guglia di Sussiu
6a max (5c obl)
Interesting climbing with a spectacular final pitch and abseil.
Incantos
Climbing routes
Incantos - Su Accara, Ulassai
7a+ max (6b+ obl)
Demanding stamina climbing up the yellow, often overhanging face.
SuperPiter
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
SuperPiter - Monte Aga
AI 6+ M6
First light saw us at the base of the gully, which at first glance looked excellent. Our only worry was… would we manage to breach the cave that towered overhead? No need to describe how happy we were when we...
Punisher
Climbing routes
Punisher - Sivridağ
VI
Punisher is 450m high and 10 pitches long, mostly on beautiful water worn slabs, very sharp holds and grey colored walls with good belays. General difficulty is grade V, with two pitches of VI. The route follows the natural line...
La Piera
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
La Piera - Dlacion de col dela Pieres
IV, WI 5
Compared to the nearby Val Gardena, Vallunga is more suited to more adventurous ice climbers, those who love a pristine alpine ambient. Vallunga is a lonely valley, criss-crossed for a bit by a cross-country piste, marked by 600-700m high faces...
Hruschka
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Hruschka - Mur de Pisciadù
WI 5 M4 V-
This route was first climbed by the pharmacist from Brunico M. Hruschka, together with E. Lunz and R. von Zieglauer back on 28 September 1933. 500m high, it’s classic Dolomite chimney climbing breaches difficulties up to classic grade V. Reinterpreted...
Amore e ombra
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Amore e ombra - Col Turont
M9, VIII, WI5
A difficult new mixed outing in Langental that follows a logical series of of cracks and corners up the Col Turont face.
Dlacion de Frea
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Dlacion de Frea - Murfreit Frea
WI 6 / M6 (possibile easier finish)
New ice climbing called Dlacion de Frea, which in local Ladin 'Frea ice drip’. The route ascends an icy chimney that has not not formed during the last 30 - 40 years. The ice varies from being very thin to cauliflower...
Exo-Ciuc
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Exo-Ciuc - Valgrisenche
WI5/II
The name of the route refers to the far harder and more famous Exocet, the spectacular ice climb up Aguja Standart, in Patagonia. The waterfall is high avalanche risk in the event of heavy snowfall. The icefall is at risk...
Wind of Change
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Wind of Change - Monte Nero di Presanella
M6+WI5
A very beautiful mixed outing, both complete and demanding: rock and mixed climbing leads to a small ledge on the left and then, around the corner, a beautiful corner rises sharply upwards. This is followed by another, with a thin...
Rolling Stones
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Rolling Stones - Monte Nero di Presanella
WI 4+/M6
Great route first climbed to the summit by Andrea Reboldi and Claudio Migliorini on 4/11/2013. The first attempt of this line probably goes back to the 1990s by Care' & C; considering the intense activity by local climbers there may well have...
Una via per te fatta in tre
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Una via per te fatta in tre - Monte Nero di Presanella
WI4/M4
Pleasant mixed climb up the sunny south face of Monte Nero. The route, which ends on the summit, is shorter than those on the north face, not too difficult but with some sections that are more demanding. 
Stortoland
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Stortoland - Monte Dolada
D5 - D7+
In May and July 2014 Andrea Saviane, Enrico De Nard "Thunder" and I bolted a new drytooling / total dry crag close to the normal crag at Monte Dolada in the Belluno Prealps, located at 1500m above sea level and...


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