The routes

Modern bolt and peg route to the left of Via Comici. The upper section is loose and less protected, most climbers therefore descend at half-height.

Itaca nel Sole is possibily the most repeated route on Caporal in Valle dell'Orco. First ascended in June 1975 by Gian Piero Motti and Guido Morello with A2 aid on the upper section, it was freed in 2003 by Cristian...

In July 2004 Mauro Bubu Bole frees one of the most eyed-up overhangs in the Dolomites, the mythical Italia ’61. The route was first climbed over 40 years ago by Bepi De Francesch, Quinto Romanin, Emiliano Vuerich and Cesare Franceschetti,...

The route climbs the center of the wall through the imposing overhangs. Aid was used on the first ascent, but nowadays it goes free at 7b. Either follow the original line in the upper section or, recommended, climb up the...

The massive free-standing Aguglia towers high above Cala Goloritzè, one of Sardinia's most beautiful bays. Its Verdonesque limestone walls offer unparalleled technical slab climbing in fantastic surroundings - a must!Itu Damagoni - Il mio veleno is a beautiful sport climb,...

Magnificent granite climbing which alternates demanding slabs with fantastic cracks.

Jeo is the latest modern sport climb to be established up the East Face of Col de Stagn, after the hugely popular Eva Dorme (6b+ max) and its easier neighbour Ludomania (6a max). Of the three routes currently on this face,...

Joy Division was first ascended by local climber Simone Pedeferri and is a combination of three routes, the first three pitchs of Forse si, forse no (Igor Koller, Peter Machai, Miro Piala, 1996) followed by Mellodramma (Gianni & Paolo Covelli,...

Kalipe is a sustained mixed climb up the North Face of Peitlerkofel with a crux pitch that is difficult to protect. Five pitons were placed, only at the belays.

Fantastic modern climb up slabs and through overhang, demanding and varied, with some impressive pitches. Exposure guaranteed. Bolts at times run-out with difficult obligatory sections.

A modern, completely bolted climb located on the NE face Faraglione di Buggerru (West coast of Sardinia), locally known as 'La Vela'. This vertical, at times overhanging sea stack is 44 meters high and located close to one of the...

Kindergarten is a modern route that requires skillful placing of trad gear, with bolts on only the most compact sections. All threads have been left in-situ, and the belays feature two 10mm bolts each (except the first, which has a bolt...

The high lying Renkfälle offer an impressive, breathtaking alpine ambient and almost a dozen icefalls ranging from WI4 to WI6 are located within a stone's throw of each other. The large variety on offer and the alpine environment close to...

Beatuiful, logical climb up Gran Flambeau; modern style with some delicate moves.

Nice icefall, one of the best in the area, not to be missed. Even if it faces SW the icefall receives the sun at the start of February only.

Königsspitze in German, Gran Zebrù in Italian, this attractive, fascinating pyramid is the most beautiful mountain in the area. And, understandably, one of the coveted ascents for every self-respecting ski mountaineer as the sweeping views from north to south fill...