The routes

Even though this is the easiest route described in this chapter, it is without a doubt one of the nicest. Fixed protection is lacking so bring wires and possibly even pegs and a hammer. The start and first two pitches...

Outstanding climbing in an extraordinarily beautiful setting. The route climbs smooth slabs immediately to the left of the classic 1968 Gogna route, and offer technical climbing up rock reminiscent of that found on Marmolada or in the Rätikon. The route...

A superb, independent line up the lefthand side of Cima Grande, marked by its – almost always – comfortable belays. While the climb was put up in 2010 by Hannes Pfeifhofer and Daniel Roger, the first one-day ascent was carried out...

The "Queen of the Dolomites", rising gracefully up from the Fedaia Pass, impressively dominates above all the other mountains in the eastern Alps. Its sunny South Face is a climbers paradise and its shadowy North Face is a dream...

Spectacular ice climb located opposite Jumbo Jet in Val de Lietres, Dolomitesi The route is also protected with bolts and pegs.

Opus Pocus on Piz Seràuta on the Marmolada is a hybrid route with a series of pitches which differ completely from one another. The first pitch for example is a classic mountain pitch on good rock which needs trad pro,...

This is a highly rewarding climb up excellent rock. Bolts were placed on lead. The route takes the center line up the Mur de Pisciadù, a large yellow and black wall. Most of the 10 pitches are solid 6b/c, and...

Osttiroler Marende climbs the east pillar of Rienzwand in Riental, below the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Completely bolted, it provides excellent rock and varied climbing up to 7b.

The climbing is both technical and strenuous, but never excessively so, on excellent rock. Bolts were placed on lead and even though a rack isn't really necessary, some small wires may be found useful. The numerous ledges ensure that the...

Beautiful route up the NW Face of the Castelletto. The route, bolted from the ground up during the first ascent, is equipped with 10mm bolts.

A modern route which, given it’s grade, good protection and excellent rock, is destined to become a classic. The route takes trad pro but the belays were bolted on lead and the pitches contain numerous pegs, nevertheless take a selection...

A pumpy and sustained climb that follows the superb slabs to the right of Via Classica, successfully avoiding two roofs and breaching a final overhang. The large roof is the crux and this can be climbed free (7a+) or aided....

Established ground-up with bolts and pegs on 30/11 and 14/12 2019 by Santiago Padros, Daniel Ladurner and Mirco Grasso. This new mixed climb provides a technical outing in an incredible setting, past thin ice and excellent quality rock past pockets...

The West Face takes a line to the right of Diedro Dallago, up solid but sometimes dirty rock. It initially follows a series of corners, before continuing up an obvious crack which forks high up beneath the yellow roof. The...

Parole e pensieri - words and thoughts - climbs good rock up the 250m steep face which is clearly visible from the cable car which leads from Cortina to Ra Valles.

Piz Boé is the highest summit in the Sella group, the culminating point in this vast mountain chain which extends in the center of 4 passes and dominates from above the Val di Fassa, Val Gardena, Val Badia and naturally...