The routes

269
Routes in archive
Spaßbremse
Climbing routes
Spaßbremse - Piz dla Dorada
7+/8-
Climbed over two days onsight, Spaßbremse breaches difficulties up to 7+/8- and offers “beautiful climbing up dreamlike rock.” Just like nearby Neolit, this route was climbed without bolts.
Spes Ultima Dea
Climbing routes
Spes Ultima Dea - Crozzon di Brenta

Spes Ultima Dea is a big rock climb up the ENE Face of Crozzon di Brenta. It varied climbing, with continuous difficulties throughout, not too difficult and not too easy, up "titanic" rock.
Speta che vegno
Climbing routes
Speta che vegno - Croz dele Mirandole - Roccione di Ranzo, Valle del Sarca
7b
Climbed it trad wherever possible and added bolts where the compact slabs accepted no gear. The first ascent was carried out over several days throughout autumn and winter. The climb has been called Speta che Vegno, wait for us, because it...
Spigolo Giallo
Climbing routes
Spigolo Giallo - Cima Piccola di Lavaredo
VI+
Every year hundreds of climbers flock to the Spigolo Giallo. Few routes have such a perfect line, and few routes get quite so crowded. It is best climbed out of season and preferably avoided at the weekends. The difficult sections...
Spina
Climbing routes
Spina - Monte Colodri
6c+
Beautiful route in the center of the east face of Monte Colodri above Arco in the Sarca valley.
Spirito Baldense
Climbing routes
Spirito Baldense - Spalti di Pratovecchio
6b
A logical route, previously noticed by climbers from Avio but completed by Beppe Vidali and Sergio Coltri. Excellent rock, difficulties never too extreme, set in a wild area yet accessable area. Bolted climb with a distinctly alpine feel.
Stigmata
Climbing routes
Stigmata - Heiligkreuzkofel
X-
'Great climbing, demanding, up good rock, at times excellent.' This is the description of Stigmata, the climb established ground-up by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher to the left of the famous Livanos Pillar on Heiligkreuzkofel, the mountain that dominates Val...
Sto imparando a volare
Climbing routes
Sto imparando a volare - Punta Emma
7c/7c+
Sto imparando a volare on Punta Emma in the Rosengarten / Catinaccio massif ascends the obvious corridor of rock to the left and parallel to the recently opened Giupponi-Larcher. A climbs a direct line up very beautiful rock with increasing difficulties that peak at...
Surprise - Sorpresa
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Surprise - Sorpresa - Nasswand
WI 6+, M6
Interesting mixed climb up Nasswand / Croda Bagnata, which rarely comes into condition. The first pitches are hidden from view, while the chimneyon the left provides two excitign pitches up steep ice.
Tempi modernissimi
Climbing routes
Tempi modernissimi - Sasso delle Undici
7c+
Like Tempi Moderni on the South Face of the Marmolada, Tempi Modernissimi on the Sasso delle Undici indicated where the new challenges lay, proving it possible to climb apparently impossible, blank faces. First climbed by the duo Heinz Mariacher and...
Testa o Croce
Climbing routes
Testa o Croce - Monte Cimo - Scoglio dei Ciclopi
8b
The route offers varied climbing up magnificent rock: a warm-up pitch up "coral-like" rock is followed by a very overhanging pitch with a no-hands rest at half-height and a hard fingery sequence to reach the belay. Pitch 3, after a...
Testa tra le nuvole
Climbing routes
Testa tra le nuvole - Mandrea Arco
7a+
Head in the Clouds was started by Ivan Maghella on his own, then completed with Alessandro Arduini. Established ground-up, the route provides continuous difficulties with elegant climbing past pockets and goutte d’eau. Some pitches are overhaning, so there’s a bit...
Teufelsgeige
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Teufelsgeige - Langental
IV, WI 5
Interesting ice climb located circa 30m to the right of the classic Piovra in Langental / Vallunga. Teufelsgeige has proven to be an instant classic.
The Edge
Climbing routes
The Edge - Monte Cimo - Sass Mesdì
8a (7b obligatory), S3/4 (4,5m - 8m runouts), II (tecnica, chiodatura, ambiente)
Airy route that zigzags its way along the aerie past the large roofs. Exposure is the hallmark of this climb and almost all pitches contain bouldery cruxes. The easier sections are fairly run-out. This, combined with the exposure, creates an...
Tigersoft
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Tigersoft - Cima Brenta
WI5, M6
Sustained winter climb up the north face of Cima Brenta.
Tokyo 2021
Climbing routes
Tokyo 2021 - Torre Est
7c+ (IX+)
Interesting route that climbs right through the middle of the beautiful, overhanging East Tower, located right in front of the Vajolet refuge. The rock required some attention and cleaning. The rock required some attention and cleaning. Comprised of five pitches,...


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