The routes

Another masterpiece by Philippe Maclé, "Ange" is one of the routes in the gorge. The rock quality is outstanding and the climb takes an extremely exposed line up the Fenrir prow with the entire Verdon void beneath your feet. Soloed...

L'or du temps was climbed over four days in summer 2017 by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez. The route shares the start of the Bonatti route, then breaks left after 2.5 pitches and continues independently and directly past steep, mainly...

An extraordinary route. From the third pitch you can marvel at the fish in the sea a hundred metres. La Calanque was first climbed in 1948 by R. Reynaud and R. Roulet and although protected by bolts, a set of...

Paroi Noire: at first glance this face looks completely smooth, but as you get closer it surprises you with a series of weathered pockets and crimps, often difficult to see even close up! First ascended in 1941 by M. Forestier...

Climbing this sunny ridge in the afternoon heat the heat with the crystal blue sea below makes every mouth water, as you think of that glass of cool beer that awauts you on your return to  Port Miou ... Saphir...

An interesting route on the north ridge of Vierge du Flambeau (3244m) in the Mont Blanc massif which is good enough to rival any classic. It’s a perfect alternative: peaceful, isolated, on stellar rock, and just 45 minutes from the...

Grandiose rock face and beautiful slab route, demanding and exposed despite being reequipped. Some sections climb 5c/6a ground 6m above the last bolt. The complicated approach and length of the route make this an outing which should not be underestimated.

Rightly described as "sublime" in the guidebook. A pocketed technical slab gives way to a strenuous overhanging pitch, which can also be overcome in A0. The rock and atmosphere on this 8 pitch route in the Sector Paroi Rouge are...

A beautiful and varied route. The second pitch, a perfect 45m crack, belongs to the Mazeaud. A short traverse left (bolt) is followed by two yosemite-like pitches with a series of finger and hand jams, and overhanging laybacks. The final...

A beautiful steep route on orange granite, mainly on gear (14 bolts total). Exposed and sustained climbing on slopers and cracks. Comfortable belays after pitch 3 (P3). The route can be linked with the original classic Enterre mon coeur to...

Without a doubt the hardest route in this collection if climbed completely free. Thankfully though there are many bolts, the cracks accept plenty of pro, and the abseil descent follows the line of ascent. The "truly strong" can climb the...

A nice route with two outstanding pitches! The third is a vertical slab up a series of small crimps, while the fifth is a long, Yosemite-like overhanging crack. Unfortunately this pitch is often wet at the start of the season.

Beautiful route up superb slabs, not polished in the slightest. The first pitch is fairly run-out at times and climbs up a series of small pockets and 'gouttes d'eau', this is then followed by an exposed 5+/6a second pitch traverse....

Mingus in the Verdon Gorge is one of the most famous and at the same time fabled rock climbs on these smooth limestone walls in southern France. First ascended in 1986 with the use of aid by Christophe Froifond and...

Splendid granite climbing up incredibly weathered rock. The route climbs the left-hand side of the Rossolino pillar wedged in the narrow Tavignano valley and follows a series of fantastic corners and vertical walls with rounded holds. The route is equipped...

A truly classic outing, a step into climbing history and a masterpiece of route finding by Jacques "Pschitt" Perrier in the Escales sector. The route climbs diagonally rightwards and finishes up the ultra-smooth and exposed slabs next to Belevedere de...