Mangoustine Scatophage - Verdon
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Alberto de Giuli, Mountain Guide
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Alberto de Giuli
Beautiful route up superb slabs, not polished in the slightest. The first pitch is fairly run-out at times and climbs up a series of small pockets and 'gouttes d'eau', this is then followed by an exposed 5+/6a second pitch traverse. The third pitch climbs a smooth yellow slab and contains the crux but this can be aided (AO). Belay on the magnificent Coriolis tree, which seems like a true work of art! The difficulties ease off on the final two pitches but the climbing remains first-class.
From the north: take the A6 motoway to Avignon and take the N100 for Apt, then Manosque and Riez. From here take the D56 to Moustiers, and continue along the D952 to La Palud.
From the south: from Nice take the N85 to Castellane, and continue along the D952 for La Palud. Shortly before entering the village turn left along the D23, the panoramic Route des Cretes, which leads to the Belvedere de la Carelle lookout and the routes.
From the Belvédeère de la Carelle walk left to Dalles Grisses and with three abseils (40m, 30m, 55m) reach the Jardin des Ecureuils. Walk right past the obvious Pilier des Ecureuils to the base of the route.
ItineraryP1: 6c
P2: 6a
P3: 6c+
P4: 5b
P5: 5b
Reequipped in 1991
GearTwo 60/70m ropes are indespensable. Bring 2 prussik loops for the abseils and 12 quickdraws.
Maps/Bibliography"Escalade au Verdon" by P. Légier, F. Ristori and A. Jamin
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