The routesClimbing routes

I sogni di Baku - Corno Gioià 



TD+ VII max. R2+/III
Opened ground-up, the new route I sogni di Baku - Baku's dreams - is a demanding climb in a grandiose and solitary setting. The route breaches the compact granite slabs and vertical cracked corners to reach the red summit tower.Despite...

Mezza luna nascente - Parmakkaya 



7c
Beautiful route established ground-up in July 2005 by the Italians Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan up the East Face of the fantastic Parmakkay obelisk. The trio made the first free ascent on 29 July 2005.

Üç Muz - Demirkazik 



8a
Üç Muz - three bananas - is a beautiful and difficult route up the East Face of Demirkazik established in 2005 by Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan. The first free ascent was carried out by the trio on...

Dall'alba al tramonto - Presolana Centrale 



6c (6b+ obblig) / S3 / II
Demanding route that requires experience in placing natural pro. During the first repeat four bolts were added to protect the exposed sections.

Spina de Mul - Col Becchei 



7c
Summer 2012, along with my tireless friend Helmut Gargitter, a talented alpinist and strong mountain guide, we've managed to establish another difficult route up the outstanding south face of Col Bechei.The route is located on the righthand side and follows...

Akut - Cima Ovest di Lavaredo 



8a
On 13 to 15 August 2001 the Italian Kurt Astner made the first free ascent of Akut, his route first climbed in August 2000 on the impressive north face of the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo.

Goldfinger - Hammerwand 



7c
In spring 2013 Martin Riegler and Florian Riegler forged Goldfinger ground-up through the overhanging limestone shield, and in June they freed the circa 200m with difficulties up to 7c.The route climbs an interesting mix of cracks, slabs and pockets...

Camillotto Pellisier - Cima Grande di Lavaredo 



7c+
Beautiful former aid climb established by the brothers Enrico Mauro and Mirko Minuzzo and freed in 2003 by Mauro Bubu Bole that has now become established as a classic testpiece.

Via Bonatti al Croz del Rifugio - Croz del Rifugio 



ED
The line climbs 200m up the grey and yellow limestone that characterises the impressive Croz amphitheater in Valle Stretta above Bardonecchia. The first and last pitches are splendid and are testament to Bonatti's route finding ability. On the whole the...

Rataplan - Parete della Grande Ala 



7a+ max /RS2/I
Highly satisfying, steep climb, exposed and demaning. The route follows some sections of old aid climbs, in particular through the great finishing corners. Some sections of poor but never dangerous rock.

Das Orakel - Lagazuoi Nord 



IX
The route was established in spring 2012 during five days of efforts. Climbing ground-up, Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald spent two days getting past the crux and had to resort to A3 aid. The first free ascent was carried out...

Lisetta - Col dei Bos 



7b+ RS3
Pleasant climb that breaches the steep yellow section up the centre of the SE Face of Col dei Bos, to the left of Via Francesa put up by Paolo Da Pozzo and Giuseppe Ghedina.

Fast & Furious - Aiguille de Chatelet 



6a+/6a oblig S3
Short but interesting outing up the South Face, forged ground-up with 10mm bolts over three days in June 2013.

Via del Guerriero - Gola del Limarò 



VI+/VIII-/A2 R3
The rock face is hidden and located in an incredibly beautiful and wild part of the canyon called Gola del Limarò. We spent three days making the first ascent, using fixed ropes and topping out on the pillar close to...

Atlantis - The Sorcerer 



5.11c
Atlantis was first freed in 1981 by Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt and that says it all. Maybe on of the best lines of its grade! Atlantis has everything, from straight jamming to liebacks, and some balancy face moves. Sometimes...

Igor Unchained - The Witch 



5.9+
Igor Unchained follows a straight line up perfect cracks with hand jams and finger-locks. The protection is tricky for the first 10 meters, then bomber until the top! A hard but amazing route for the grade, up the steep golden...
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