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Renato Casarotto's historic first winter ascent of Diedro Cozzolino on Piccolo Mangart in the Julian Alps
06/01/2026 - Alpinism
Renato Casarotto's historic first winter ascent of Diedro Cozzolino on Piccolo Mangart in the Julian Alps
We are reproducing, courtesy of the Gorizia section of the Italian Mountaineering Club, the account of the historic first winter ascent of 'Diedro Nord' of Piccolo Mangart di Coritenza in the Julian Alps. Also referred to as 'Diedro Cozzolino', this dihedral was climbed solo by the Italian alpinist Renato Casarotto...
Azzardo Estremo on Sckem Braq in Pakistan by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
04/12/2025 - Alpinism
Azzardo Estremo on Sckem Braq in Pakistan by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo
Matteo De Zaiacomo recounts the first ascent in August 2024, with Chiara Gusmeroli, of 'Azzardo Estremo' on Sckem Braq in the Nangma Valley in Pakistan. 900 metres long, the route was opened alpine style and consists of 26 pitches with difficulties up to 7a and A3.
Rob Matheson and 'The Bells, The Bells!' interview
14/11/2025 - Interviews
Rob Matheson and 'The Bells, The Bells!' interview
Interview with British climber Rob Matheson who, aged 74, in April 2025 made an audacios repeat of 'The Bells, The Bells!', one of the most fearsome trad climbs in Great Britain. Located on North Stack Wall at Gogarth, it has only seen a handful of repeats since its first ascent...
First ascent of Kimshung in Nepal by François Cazzanelli, Beppe Vidoni, Lukas Waldner, Benjamin Zörer
30/10/2025 - Interviews
First ascent of Kimshung in Nepal by François Cazzanelli, Beppe Vidoni, Lukas Waldner, Benjamin Zörer
Interview with Italian alpinist François Cazzanelli, who on 20 October 2025, with Beppe Vidoni, Lukas Waldner and Benjamin Zörer, successfully completed the first ascent of Kimshung (6781m) in Nepal.
New route on Middle Huey Spire at Cirque of Unclimbables in Canada
01/08/2025 - Alpinism
New route on Middle Huey Spire at Cirque of Unclimbables in Canada
Italian alpinists Davide Bacci, Enrico Bittelli, Dario Eynard and Giacomo Meliffi have made the first ascent of 'L'oro dello Yukon' on Middle Huey Spire on the Cirque of the Unclimbables in Canada.
Lorenzo Bogliacino adds 'Vivi si muore' (9a/+) to Val Tanaro, Italy
09/04/2025 - Climbing
Lorenzo Bogliacino adds 'Vivi si muore' (9a/+) to Val Tanaro, Italy
Italian climber Lorenzo Bogliacino has made the first ascent of 'Vivi si muore' (9a/+) at La Stazione in Val Tanaro, Piedmont, Italy.
Pietro Bassotto (61) frees 'Mata Leao' (8c+) at Novalesa in Italy
19/03/2025 - Climbing
Pietro Bassotto (61) frees 'Mata Leao' (8c+) at Novalesa in Italy
Interview with Pietro Bassotto, the 61-year-old Italian climber who recently made the first ascent of 'Mata Leao' (8c+) at the La Terrazza crag in Novalesa, Val di Susa, Italy.
After the Santner Refuge scandal, South Tyrol approves new law to prevent sale of public lands in mountainous areas
18/03/2025 - Environment
After the Santner Refuge scandal, South Tyrol approves new law to prevent sale of public lands in mountainous areas
The Provincial Council of Bolzano in the South Tyrol, Italy, has unanimously approved a bill to modify the management of inalienable heritage in mountainous areas of historical, cultural, or landscape value above an altitude of 1,600 meters. The opinion of an expert committee composed of provincial offices, the AVS (Alpine...
New rock climbs in Morocco by Fay Manners, Daniel Coquoz
22/01/2025 - Climbing
New rock climbs in Morocco by Fay Manners, Daniel Coquoz
British rock climber Fay Manners reports about a climbing trip to Morocco towards the end of last year which resulted in the first ascents of three new trad climbs together with
Saro Costa and the Ticino Alps 42 x 3000ers enchainment
05/12/2024 - Alpinism
Saro Costa and the Ticino Alps 42 x 3000ers enchainment
The report by Italian mountain guide Saro Costa of his Alpin’ Ticino Project, ie the link-up from 19 to 30 October 2024 of the 42 3000-meter mountains in the Ticino Alps in Switzerland. The only mountain not summited, due to too much snow and lack of daylight, was Kastelhorn.
Farewell to Keita Kurakami
29/06/2024 - Climbing
Farewell to Keita Kurakami
Keita Kurakami has died aged 38. The Japanese climber had made a name for himself for making the first rope-solo free ascent of The Nose in Yosemite, as well as pushing the limits of highball boulder problems established ground-up.
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs in France.
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
11/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
On Breithorn Centrale the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza have established the mixed climb 'Estate Indiana'. The 800m route breaches difficulties up to M8 AI5 R, summits Torre Maggiore and was climbed completely clean, i.e. using trad gear only.
Brezno pod Velbom icefall repeated inside Monte Canin by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai, Marco Toldo
27/04/2023 - Alpinism
Brezno pod Velbom icefall repeated inside Monte Canin by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai, Marco Toldo
Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai and Marco Toldo belonging to the Roccia 4 Gatti di Arsiero mountaineering club have climbed the enormous icefall located inside the Brezno pod Velbom cave, at an altitude of 2050m on the Slovenian side of Monte Canin. Dellai reports of the repeat of what is considered...
Survival by Emilio Ricci wins the XVI edition of Photographing the Park
23/03/2023 - Events
Survival by Emilio Ricci wins the XVI edition of Photographing the Park
The winners of the 16th edition of the international photographic competition 'Photographing the Park' have been announced. Organised by the National Parks of Stelvio, Gran Paradiso, Abruzzo, Lazio and Molise and de la Vanoise, the competition attracted over 3000 entires, with Emilio Ricci taking home the grand prize for his...
Keita Kurakami uncovers his Discovery at Yakushima in Japan
01/03/2023 - Climbing
Keita Kurakami uncovers his Discovery at Yakushima in Japan
Japanese rock climber Keita Kurakami provides thoughtful insight into the mentality behind his first ascent of the boulder problem 'Discovery' on the island of Yakushima, Japan.

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