346 News found
08/02/2024 - Competitions
IFSC introduces Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (REDs) policy to protect athlete health To protect the health of its athletes the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) has introduced comprehensive regulations related to Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (REDs). The new policy will take effect from 15 February 2024.
21/12/2023 - Gear
European Outdoor Group members vote to join Race To Zero members of the European Outdoor Group (EOG) have voted to make committing to a Race To Zero initiative by the end of 2024 a mandatory requirement of association membership. In a process that was open to all members, 88% of...
05/12/2023 - Environment
ACTS open letter to IFSC protesting against NEOM Beach Games and environmental and ethical policy The ACTS For Our Summits association has written an Open Letter to the IFSC expressing its concerns about the NEOM Masters 2023 climbing competition, and urging the IFSC to take stronger actions regarding environmental and social issues. Over 110 IFSC...
27/11/2023 - Alpinism
Ultima Perla added to Agner in the Dolomites by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai On the north face of Agner (Valle di San Lucano, Dolomites) Nicola Bertoldo and Diego Dellai have made the first ascent of the mixed climb Ultima Perla (350m, 5+, M6, 50°).
04/07/2023 - Trekking
Gran Sasso d'Italia, Via Ferrata Brizio changes name and becomes Ferrata dei Ginepri The Teramo section of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) has announced it has changed the name of Via Ferrata Brizio to Via Ferrata dei Ginepri. The decision derives from historical events linked to the application of the racial laws during...
25/05/2023 - Trekking
Benito Mussolini stripped of Italian Mountaineering Club honorary membership During its annual national assembly, the Italian Mountaineering Club removed the name of Benito Mussolini from the register of its honorary members.
08/05/2023 - Alpinism
Tom Hornbein, 1963 Everest West Ridge pioneer, dies aged 92 Tom Hornbein, the formidable American mountaineer famous above all for his groundbreaking first ascent of the West Ridge of Everest in 1963 with Willi Unsoeld, has died aged 92.
21/02/2023 - Alpinism
Minteke Valley: Muhz Teke, Pik Sindre, Pik Luis and other Dutch climbs in Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan The climbing expedition report to Minteke Valley, Pamir-Alay, Kyrgyzstan, carried out by Dutch climbers Noor van der Veen, Regien Winnubst, Martin Platteschor, Dennis Hendrikx, Robert Löwensteyn, Sjoerd Boersma, Michiel Telkamp, Jeffrey Meesters, Anniek Verschuur, Bas Visscher, Court Haegens and Boris...
16/02/2023 - Climbing
Extremely Leonidio & Incredibly Close Climbing destinations and travel: notes from Leonidio in the Peloponnese, without a shadow of doubt one of the best rock climbing areas in Greece. By Nicoletta Costi and Nicola Noè.
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply...
27/12/2022 - Alpinism
Grand new big wall climbed on Northern Sun Spire in Greenland by Capucine Cotteaux, Caro North, Nadia Royo Cremer From 4 - 7 August 2022 Caro North, Capucine Cotteaux and Nadia Royo Cremer made the first ascent of Via Sedna up the unclimbed East face of Northern Sun Spire in Greenland. The trio established the impressive 780m 7b+/A0 after...
05/12/2022 - Alpinism
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio Nathan Heald reports about the first ascent of new route up the SE Face of Nevado Lasunayoc (5,936m) in the Pumasillo massif of the Cordillera Vilcabamba in Peru. The new mixed climb, carried out with local mountaineer Leo Rasalio,...
28/11/2022 - Alpinism
Annapurna III Piolet d'Or 2022 video The video of the first ascent of the southeast ridge of Annapurna III (7,555m), carried out by Nikita Balabanov, Mikail Fomin and Viacheslav Polezhaiko. The climb received a Special Jury Award at the Piolets d'Or 2022.
17/10/2022 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Moonwalk Traverse and Saraghrar NW win Piolets d’Or 2022, Annapurna III SE Ridge receives Special Jury Award The 2022 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be conferred from 18- 20 November at Briançon in France to Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll of Belgium for his Moonwalk Traverse of the Fitz Roy Group in Patagonia, and to Archil Badriashvili, Baqar...
11/08/2022 - Alpinism
Bondit Peak climbed in Pakistan by Hungarian expedition Four Hungarian mountaineers, Laszlo Szasz, Bence Kerekes, Marton Nagy and Viktor Agoston, made the first ascent of the hitherto Bondit Peak in Pakistan. The four climbers summited 5980m in pure alpine style via the NE Ridge (1500m, 80°, WI 4).
20/07/2022 - Alpinism
Broad Peak summit for Marco Camandona and Pietro Picco On Tuesday 19 July 2022 Italian mountaineers Pietro Picco and Marco Camandona reached the summit of Broad Peak (8047m) without supplementary oxygen. This is Camandona's twelfth eightthousander without O2.
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