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01.10.2021 by Dmitry Golovchenko in Alpinism

Voennikh Topografov South Face in Tien Shan climbed by Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev

Russian mountaineers Dmitry Golovchenko, Sergei Nilov, Dmitry Grigoryev have made an alpine-style ascent of the South Face of Voennikh Topografov, aka Military Topographers, at 6873 m the third highest mountain in the Tian-Shan range. Golovchenko reports.

30.09.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Andrea Lanfri completes bike & climb from Genoa to Monte Rosa’s Margherita hut

As part of his 'From 0 to 0' project, Andrea Lanfri set off from Genoa by bike and climbed to the Capanna Margherita (4554m) on Monte Rosa, before returning to Genoa by bike. The Paralympic athlete and mountaineer from Lucca travelled over 470km by bike and needed just 18 hours and 7 minutes to complete the first stage from the sea to the hut.

28.09.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Grandes Jorasses and complete North6 project

With the ascent of The Shroud route on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif, Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have completed North6, their project to climb the six most famous north faces of the Alps, traveling from one mountain to the next by bike. The two mountaineers required 18 days to climb the north faces of Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Eiger, Matterhorn, Petit Dru and Grandes Jorasses.

27.09.2021 by Archil Badriashvili in Alpinism

Saraghrar and Languta-e-Barfi climbed in Hindu Kush by Georgian expedition

A small Georgian expedition comprised of Archil Badriashvili, Baqar Gelashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze has made two interesting ascents in the Rosh Gol valley in Pakistan: the first ascent of the Northwest summit of Saraghrar 7,303m and the third ascent of Languta-e-Barfi 6,833m.

24.09.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Petit Dru climbed by Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli as fifth north face in North6 project

With their ascent of Petit Dru in the Mont Blanc massif, Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have now climbed five of the six great north faces of the Alps. After Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile, Eiger, Matterhorn and Petit Dru, now the only peak missing off their list is the Grandes Jorasses.

22.09.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Matterhorn Schmid route in North6 project

After Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Pizzo Badile and the Eiger, alpinists Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have now climbed the Matterhorn via the Schmid route. To complete their North6 project, only two famous north faces of the Alps are still missing off the list: Grandes Jorasses and Petit Dru.

20.09.2021 by Simon Messner in Alpinism

Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer attempt Praqpa Ri in Karakorum

Simon Messner reports about his August 2021 attempt with Martin Sieberer to climb Praqpa Ri (7.134m) in the Karakorum, Pakistan.

09.09.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Dani Arnold climbs Petit Dru North Face speed solo

On 15 August 2021 Dani Arnold made a solo ascent of the North Face of the Petit Dru (3733m) in the Mont Blanc massif, climbing the historic Allain-Leininger route (900m TD+) in just 1 hour, 43 minutes.

20.08.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru

In July a Slovenian Youth Alpine Team comprised of Matija Volontar, Bor Levičnik, Matevž Štular and Blaž Karner succeeded in climbing two new routes on Hualcan (6122m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Štular provides the report of the ascents, one of which was carried out with Aritza Monasterio.

19.08.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

New climb on Peru’s Nevado Sullcon Sur by Steve Meder, Edward Saona

On the 9th of August, the French-Peruvian Andinists Steve Meder and Edward Saona established a new route up the South-West Face of Nevado Sullcon Sur (5650m) in the Central Cordillera mountain range of Peru. Cara Suroeste Directa is only the 4th ascent of the mountain.

29.07.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Marc-André Leclerc is The Alpinist

The trailer for The Alpinist, the documentary that traces the life of Canadian mountaineer Marc-André Leclerc.

27.07.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Rick Allen perishes on K2

68-year-old Scottish mountaineer Rick Allen has lost his life while attempting to establish a new route on K2. In 2012, together with Sandy Allan, he completed the historic first traverse of the interminable Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat.

26.07.2021 by Jérôme Sullivan in Alpinism

French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan

Towards the end of June French mountain guides Martin Elias, Victor Saucède, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan made the first ascent of Harvest Moon, a new route on Dansam West (6600m) above the Kondus Valley in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbed alpine style, the 1600m route is graded M6 WI6. Jérôme Sullivan reports.

23.07.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Nicola Castagna, Gabriel Perenzoni complete the 82 x 4000m peaks of the Alps in 80 days

Italian alpinists Nicola Castagna and Gabriel Perenzoni have managed to climb all 82 peaks over 4,000 meters in the Alps. The trainee mountain guides set off on 4 May and required 80 days to complete the climbs.

21.07.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Concha de Caracol South Face new route in Peru by Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin, Alex Torres

Alpinists Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin and Alex Torres have made the first ascent of Cerveza, Pan y Ácido, a new mixed climb up the South Face of Concha de Caracol in the Cordillera Vilcanota massif in Peru.

16.07.2021 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Lorenzo Scandroglio

The Italian mountaineering community is in mourning: Lorenzo Scandroglio, a well-known mountain journalist, writer and translator, mountain hut warden, mountaineer and member of the Italian mountain rescue team, passed away at the age of 52.

15.07.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou

Enenko and Iker Pou have made the first ascent of ¡Viva Perú Carajo !, a new mixed climb up the South Face of Nevado Huamashraju East in Peru. At the same time their expedition partners Manu Ponce and Micher Quito also established a new route up the mountain’s north face.

09.07.2021 by Gabriel Perenzoni in Alpinism

Altavia 4000 and the dream of climbing 82 4000 of the Alps. By Gabriel Perenzoni

Aspirant mountain guide Gabriel Perenzoni talks about his dream of climbing the 82 peaks over 4,000 meters in the Alps with Nicola Castagna. Their project is called Altavia 4000 and having set off on 4 May, that have already climbed 62 mountains in 60 days.

06.07.2021 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Watch Nicolas Hojac, Adrian Zurbrügg speed across the Monte Rosa Traverse

The video of Swiss mountaineers Adrian Zurbrügg and Nicolas Hojac who in 2020 enchained the 18 mountains in the Monte Rosa massif above 4000 meters in just 13 hours and 39 minutes.

28.06.2021 by Planetmountain in Interviews

Chantel Astorga interview after Cassin Ridge solo on Denali in Alaska

Interview with top American alpinist Chantel Astorga after the first female solo ascent of the Cassin Ridge on Denali in Alaska.




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