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27.01.2019 by Claudio Migliorini in Alpinism

Spontaneity, altruism and drama in Patagonia

Tragedy in Patagonia: last week a Czech mountaineer died on Fitz Roy and two Brazilian mountaineers have gone missing. A 19-man rescue attempt was launched including Italian mountaineers Claudio Migliorini, Luca Schiera, Edoardo Albrighi, Jacopo Zezza, Giampaolo Calzà, Paolo Marazzi, Dimitri Anghileri, two Spanish climbers, two Argentinians and Denis Urubko. Migliorini reports about the rescue attempt the set off at 10pm on 21 January 2019 and was coordinated by Carolina Codò.

26.01.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Pioneering Patagonia: Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera climb Cerro Mangiafuoco

In Patagonia the two Ragni di Lecco alpinists Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera have made the first ascent of Cerro Mangiafuoco. The new route is called L'appel du vide (6c M4 400m).

25.01.2019 by Planetmountain in Competitions

Ice Climbing World Cup 2019, Saas Fee in Switzerland hosts third stage

The third stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2019 takes place in Saas Fee, Switzerland today. The Speed finals take place the evening, tomorrow hosts the Lead semifinals and Finals. All stages transmitted in live streaming.

24.01.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Thomas Bubendorfer discovers No Country for Old Men in South Tyrol, Italy

Austrian alpinists Thomas Bubendorfer and Max Sparber have made the first ascent of No Country for Old Men, a challenging mixed climb close to Sand in Taufers in the South Tyrol, Italy.

23.01.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

David Lama: the Valsertal Sagzahn - Verschneidung video

The video of the first ascent of Sagzahn-Verschneidung, a mixed climb established by David Lama and Peter Mühlburger in 2018 up Mt. Sagwand in Austria’s Valsertal.

21.01.2019 by Denis Trento in Alpinism

Aiguille Rouges de Rochefort: Trento, Farina, Majori establish new climb in Mont Blanc massif

Denis Trento reports about a new winter climb up the east face of Aiguille Rouges de Rochefort in the Mont Blanc massif. The outing was completed with Marco Farina and Marco Majori after a first attempt with Andrea Peron.

19.01.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Last Minute, new mixed climb in Dolomites Langental

Dolomites ice climbing: at the end of 2018 in the Langental - Vallunga, Petr Vejvoda and Jan Zahula established Ultimo Minuto, a new mixed climb to the right of the famous icefall Piovra.

18.01.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Dariusz Sokołowski discovers his Parallel World, D16 dry tooling in the Dolomites

On 20 December 2018 Polish mountaineer Dariusz Sokołowski made the first free ascent of Parallel World, a dry tooling climb that crosses a 60-meter horizontal roof at crag Tomorrow's World in the Italian Dolomites. Graded D16, if the grade is confirmed, this checks in as one of the most difficult dry tooling climbs in the world.

17.01.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face

Enrico Sasso reports about his 11 December 2018 solo first ascent of Rose (ED, 380m, WI4, M7) a new mixed route up the north face of Marguareis in the Ligurian Alps, Italy.

17.01.2019 by Vinicio Stefanello in Alpinism

Agostino Gustin Gazzera, goodbye to the spirit of the mountaineer

In memory of Agostino 'Gustin' Gazzera. Born in 1927, the Italian alpinist died on 11 January 2019 after demonstrating a lifetime’s love for the mountains.

16.01.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Luka Lindič, Fabian Buhl add new climb to Cima Tosa, Brenta Dolomites

Slovenia’s Luka Lindič and Germany’s Fabian Buhl have established Sau hladno!, a new mixed climb up Cima Tosa in the Brenta Dolomites.

14.01.2019 by Tomas Franchini in Alpinism

Selvaggia Sorte, Cima Tosa and the 2013 first ascent by Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Lucchi

Tomas Franchini recalls the first ascent of Selvaggia Sorte up Cima Tosa, 3133 m, in the Brenta Dolomites. After a first solo attempt, the mixed climb was established by Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013

12.01.2019 by Simon Gietl in Alpinism

Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald establish Räuber Hotzenplotz, new mixed climb in South Tyrol

South Tyrolean alpinists Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald have made the first ascent of Räuber Hotzenplotz (M9 Wi5). This mixed climb is located to the left of the famous Koflerbach icefall close to Sand in Taufers in the South Tyrol, Italy.

11.01.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Ines Papert, Luka Lindič score first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up Cima Tosa in Brenta Dolomites

Brenta Dolomites winter climbing: on 01/01/2018 alpinists Ines Papert and Luka Lindič have made the first repeat of Selvaggia sorte up the west face of Cima Tosa 3133m. The route was first completed by Tomas Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013.

10.01.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti establish big new Dolomites winter climb

Winter mountaineering in the Brenta Dolomites: on the east face of Cima Brenta, Alessandro Beber and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of the important new ice and mixed climb CRAM (550m, AI5, M6, 90°). Beber and Faletti report.

07.01.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Patagonia Aguja Guillaumet: Markus Pucher first winter solo ascent video

The video of the first winter solo ascent of Aguja Guillaumet in Patagonia, carried out on 8 September 2017 by Austrian mountaineer Markus Pucher.

07.01.2019 by Aivaras Sajus in Alpinism

Sharphu II in Himalaya climbed by Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus

In October 2018 Spencer Gray and Aivaras Sajus made what is likely to be the first ascent of Sharphu II (6328m) in Nepal's Kangchenjunga region. The route climbs the mountain’s east face, was climbed alpine style over a six-day period and has been called Saṃsāra (ED2 AI5 M6).

04.01.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Generation Dry, discovering the world of Dry Tooling

The film Generation Dry that explores the world of dry tooling, mixed climbing and winter mountaineering. Directed by Pierre Chauffour, with Gaetan Raymond, François Damilano, Jeff Mercier, Fred Degoulet, Tom Ballard and the late Stéphane Husson.

31.12.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Tomas Franchini makes solo first ascent up Spallone dei Massodì, Brenta Dolomites

Winter climbing in the Brenta Dolomites: on 19 December 2018 Tomas Franchini, climbing solo, made the first ascent of Solo il Matto up Spallone dei Massodì (3004m).

28.12.2018 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Utopia, Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner climb new mixed at Rein in Taufers

On 16 December 2018 Simon Gietl and Mark Oberlechner made the first ascent of Utopia, a new mixed climb close to Rein in Taufers in Italy.

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