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19.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Buster Martin climbs First Ley 9a+ at Margalef in Spain

Buster Martin has repeated First Ley 9a+ at Margalef in Spain. In doing so he has become only the second Briton to climb a confirmed 9a+ after Steve McClure.

19.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Orazio Codega, historic president and soul of CAMP, passes away aged 80

Orazio Codega, president and genuine soul of CAMP, has passed away aged 80. Born in 1939, from the Sixties until 2004 he shaped the Italian company into becoming it one of the world leaders in the production of climbing and mountaineering equipment.

19.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Stefan Glowacz & Team climb new Greenland Grundtvigskirken route by fair means

Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans, Markus Dorfleitner, Christian Schlesener and Moritz Attenberger have established a new route up Grundtvigskirken (1977m) in Greenland. The entire German expedition was carried out by fair means.

18.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Rotpunkt featuring Alex Megos

The film Rotpunkt featuring Alexander Megos; a portrait of the German climber and a look into the history of free climbing including the likes of Kurt Albert and Wolfgang Güllich.

18.11.2019 by Gilberto Merlante in Alpinism

500+, new multi-pitch rock climb up Domuzucan Peak in Turkey

An Italian (Gilberto Merlante), a Pole (Wojtek Szeliga) and a Turk (Tunc Findic) have made the first ascent of 500+, a multi-pitch rock climb up the west face of Domuzucan Peak close to Geyikbayiri in Turkey.

17.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Nellie Milfeld climbs Freerider free on El Capitan, Yosemite

American rock climber Nellie Milfeld, belayed by her husband Cedar Wright, has made a rare female ascent of Freerider up El Capitan in Yosemite

15.11.2019 by Juho Knuuttila in Alpinism

Tengkangpoche North Pillar unclimbed. Attempt by Juho Knuuttila, Quentin Roberts

From 11 - 16 October 2019 alpinists Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland made an impressive attempt of the unclimbed North Pillar of Tengkangpoche (Teng Kang Poche) in Nepal. Knuuttila reports about their first proper experience climbing in the Himalaya.

14.11.2019 by Dave Barnes in Climbing

Goodbye to British rock climbing icon Andy Pollitt

Andy Pollitt, a rock climbing icon of 80’s and 90’s, passed away on 13 November 2019 in a Melbourne hospital. He was 56. Dave Barnes pays tribute.

14.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Magnus Midtbø at Arco climbs Heinz Mariacher 80's sketchy slabs

The video of Magnus Midtbø tackling two ‘legendary' slabs at Arco first ascended by Heinz Mariacher: Super Swing (1983) at Swing Area and Tom e Jerry (1984) at Spiaggia delle Lucertole immediately above Lake Garda.

13.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Ryuichi Murai frees United, 8C+ boulder in Japan

25-year-old boulderer Ryuichi Murai has made the first ascent of United, an 8C+ boulder problem at Mizugaki in Japan.

12.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Sébastien Berthe free climbs The Nose on El Capitan, Yosemite

Belgian rock climber Sébastien Berthe has made a rare free ascent of The Nose on El Capitan, Yosemite.

12.11.2019 by Guido Unterwurzacher in Alpinism

Alexander Huber, Guido Unterwurzacher establish Koasabluad up Wilder Kaiser

Alpinists Alexander Huber and Guido Unterwurzacher have completed Koasabluad, a difficult multi-pitch rock climb up Maukspitze in the Wilder Kaiser massif in Austria, where in 2014/2015 they established Südwind. Unterwurzacher reports.

11.11.2019 by Alessandro Beber in Alpinism

New Campanile Basso rock climb in Brenta Dolomites

On the north face of Campanile Basso in the Brenta Dolomites Alessandro Beber, Gianni Canale and Matteo Faletti have made the first ascent of Destrani, a new rock climb located between Spigolo Graffer and Via Maestri Claus.

09.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Anak Verhoeven 8b+ onsight, 9a+ redpoint at Oliana in Spain

At Oliana in Spain Belgian climber Anak Verhoeven has onsighted an 8b+, Gorilas en la Niebla, and redpointed a 9a+, Joe Mama, conferming her status as one of the best climbers in the world.

09.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Jakob Schubert claims third ascent of Perfecto Mundo 9b+ at Margalef

Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has made the third ascent of Perfecto Mundo, the 9b+ sports climb at Margalef in Spain freed by Alexander Megos and repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi.

08.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Elias Iagnemma climbing Ten at Vado di Sole in Abruzzo, Italy

Watch Elias Iagnemma make the first ascent of Ten at the crag of Vado di Sole, the first route in Abruzzo, Italy, graded 9a/a+.

08.11.2019 by Marek Raganowicz in Climbing

Marek Raganowicz on El Capitan solo climbs Born Under a Bad Sign

Polish / British alpinist Marek Raganowicz reports about his 13 day solo ascent of Born Under a Bad Sign, a difficult and dangerous aid climb up El Capitan in Yosemite first ascended in 1979 by Bill Price and Tim Washick.

07.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Alpinism

Bapsa Valley, three new Indian Himalaya climbs by Pou brothers

The Basque brothers Iker Pou and Eneko Pou recently returned from the Bapsa valley in the Indian Himalayas where they established three new rock climbs on two virgin peaks.

05.11.2019 by Planetmountain in Climbing

Sébastien Bouin rides the Blue Wave of Oliana in Spain

The video of French climber Sébastien Bouin climbing some of the most difficult sport climbs at Oliana in Spain: Mamichula, Pachamama and Papichulo.

05.11.2019 by Florian Huber in Alpinism

Tobias Engl, Florian Huber establish Dolasilla up Lavarella in the Dolomites

The topo of Dolasilla (VIII-, 300m) established by Tobias Engl and Florian Huber up Piz Lavarella (Conturines - Lavarella) in the Dolomites. According to the first ascentionists this is likely to be the first route up the mountain’s west face.

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