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Spectacular new ice climb in Val Ombretta opposite Marmolada (Dolomites)
22/12/2023 - Alpinism
Spectacular new ice climb in Val Ombretta opposite Marmolada (Dolomites)
Emanuele Andreozzi and Vaida Vaivadaite have established 'First Time', a spectacular new ice climb in Val Ombretta directly opposite the south face of the Marmolada in the Dolomites, Italy.
New ice climb added to Sorapiss (Dolomites) by Mirco Grasso, Francesco Rigon
20/12/2023 - Alpinism
New ice climb added to Sorapiss (Dolomites) by Mirco Grasso, Francesco Rigon
Italian mountain guide Francesco Rigon reports about the first ascent of ice climb 'Solo per un sorriso' (WI 5+ 170m), established with Mirco Grasso on Croda di Cacciagrande in the Sorapiss Group (Dolomites) on 19/12/2023.
Cool Chobutse climb in Nepal completed by Wadim Jabłoński, Maciej Kimel
19/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cool Chobutse climb in Nepal completed by Wadim Jabłoński, Maciej Kimel
Climbing alpine style from 14 - 18 October 2023, Polish alpinists Wadim Jabłoński and Maciej Kimel established 'Just Breathe' (M5 WI4 R/X 1600m) on the NE Pillar of Chobutse / Tsoboje (6686m) in the Rolwaling Himalaya of Nepal.
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France
15/12/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France
After the first ascent in February 2023, British climber James Pearson has now proposed the grade E12 for Bon Voyage at Annot in France. Currently there is no other trad route of this grade. In this great introspective piece the 30-year-old British climber talks about the path that led him...
Cholatse West Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
13/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cholatse West Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Climbing alpine style from 2-3 November 2023, Czech mountaineers Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák made the first ascent of 'Just one solution!'(ED WI4+, M5, 1200m) up the West Face of Cholatse (6440m) in Nepal. Hák reports about the route dedicated to the memory of Jan Ros.
Pandora, the new crag at Masua in Sardinia
07/12/2023 - Climbing
Pandora, the new crag at Masua in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia introduces Pandora, the new crag to the left of the historic Castello dell'Iride at Masua, in the Iglesiente in southern Sardinia.
ACTS open letter to IFSC protesting against NEOM Beach Games and environmental and ethical policy
05/12/2023 - Environment
ACTS open letter to IFSC protesting against NEOM Beach Games and environmental and ethical policy
The ACTS For Our Summits association has written an Open Letter to the IFSC expressing its concerns about the NEOM Masters 2023 climbing competition, and urging the IFSC to take stronger actions regarding environmental and social issues. Over 110 IFSC athletes, professional climbers, and associations have already co-signed the letter....
Matterhorn's Carrel hut to be moved to avoid rockfall
29/11/2023 - Alpinism
Matterhorn's Carrel hut to be moved to avoid rockfall
The Carrel hut on the Matterhorn will be moved to avoid rockfall. The new bivouac will be built a few meters from its current location and should be inaugurated in summer 2024. The cost of demolition and reconstruction is in the regione of two million euros.
Flat Top north face climbed in India's Kishtwar by Hugo Béguin, Matthias Gribi, Nathan Monard
06/11/2023 - Alpinism
Flat Top north face climbed in India's Kishtwar by Hugo Béguin, Matthias Gribi, Nathan Monard
Swiss mountaineers Hugo Béguin, Matthias Gribi and Nathan Alexandre Monard have made the first ascent of the unclimbed north face of Flat Top (6057m) in the Kishtwar region of India. Called 'Tomorrow is another day', the 1400m line was climbed alpine style from 3 - 7 October and breaches difficulties...
New climb added to White Sapphine peak in Kishtwar Valley by Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko, Hayden Wyatt
02/11/2023 - Alpinism
New climb added to White Sapphine peak in Kishtwar Valley by Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko, Hayden Wyatt
From 5 - 7 October 2023 Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko and Hayden Wyatt made the alpine style first ascent of 'Brilliant Blue' (850m, AI3, 80°, M7+) on White Sapphire peak (6040m) in the Kishtwar Valley in India. This is only the 3rd ascent of the mountain overall.
Rottalhorn West Face first ascent by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel, Rolf Zurbrügg
23/10/2023 - Alpinism
Rottalhorn West Face first ascent by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel, Rolf Zurbrügg
On 12/10/2023 Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel and Rolf Zurbrügg made the first ascent of the west face of Rottalhorn (3971m) in Switzerland's Bernese Alps via their 'Herbstwanderung'.
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
19/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
The organisers of the Piolets d'Or 2023 have awarded the following climbs: Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts, Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede and Jérôme Sullivan, and Jugal Spire in Nepal by Tim Miller and Paul Ramsden. A special mention has been...
Janja Garnbret climbs New Base Line (8B+) at Magic Wood
13/10/2023 - Climbing
Janja Garnbret climbs New base Line (8B+) at Magic Wood
24-year-old Slovenian climber Janja Garnbret has made a fast repeat of New base Line (8B+) at Magic Wood in Switzerland.
Christophe Henry and Juan Señoret perish on Volcán Puntiagudo in Chile
Christophe Henry and Juan Señoret perish on Volcán Puntiagudo in Chile
Juan Señoret from Chile and Christophe 'Tof' Henry from France died on Volcán Puntiagudo in Chile. Both were undisputed reference points for mountaineering and extreme skiing, and the loss of these two will be felt for years.
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
11/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
On Breithorn Centrale the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza have established the mixed climb 'Estate Indiana'. The 800m route breaches difficulties up to M8 AI5 R, summits Torre Maggiore and was climbed completely clean, i.e. using trad gear only.
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen Tower, while 'Super Thuraya' (6c, 500m) climbs the southwest pillar...