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Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen Tower, while 'Super Thuraya' (6c, 500m) climbs the southwest pillar...
Seb Bouin repeats Lapsus at Andonno in Italy
29/09/2023 - Climbing
Seb Bouin repeats Lapsus at Andonno in Italy
Sébastien Bouin has repeated 'Lapsus' at Andonno in Italy. First ascended by Stefano Ghisolfi in 2015 and originally graded 9b, the French climber feels the route warrants 9a+.
Simon Gietl makes solo first ascent of adventurous Identität in Dolomites
29/09/2023 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl makes solo first ascent of adventurous Identität in Dolomites
The South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Gietl has made the solo first ascent of 'Identität' solo, a new route up the west face of the Mittlerer Zwölfer / Croda Antonio Berti in the Sexten and Auronzo Dolomites.
Vascello Fantasma added to remote Valle del Ferro (Val Masino), Italy
25/09/2023 - Alpinism
Vascello Fantasma added to remote Valle del Ferro (Val Masino), Italy
On 6 August 2023 on Pera del Ferro in Valle del Ferro (Val Masino, Italy) Matteo Bedendo and Lorenzo Casolini made the first ascent of 'Vascello Fantasma’, Ghost Ship. This route is 'Recommended for those who love climbing in remote and forgotten places in the high mountains, with a penchant...
Ranrapalca NW Face climbed in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/09/2023 - Alpinism
Ranrapalca NW Face climbed in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
In August 2023 the virgin NW Face of Ranrapalca in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru was been climbed alpine style by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito via their 'Ya Pe' Cholo' (6b/80°/1,200m).
Matilda Söderlund nails Niemisis (9a) at Niemisel in Sweden
12/09/2023 - Climbing
Matilda Söderlund nails Niemisis (9a) at Niemisel in Sweden
Swedish climber Matilda Söderlund has made the second ascent of Niemisis at Niemisel, which she believes could be graded 9a.
Huge Latok Thumb in Karakorum first ascended by Miquel Mas, Marc Subirana
05/09/2023 - Alpinism
Huge Latok Thumb in Karakorum first ascended by Miquel Mas, Marc Subirana
Spanish mountaineers Miquel Mas and Marc Subirana have climbed a new route on Southwest Face of Latok II in Pakistan's Karakorum. The pair summited the distinctive tower they have now called Latok Thumb (6380m) via their 'Atracció Instintiva' (1100m, 7a run out, A2+, M5). Success comes about after a previous...
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
31/08/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
From 19-24 August Swiss alpinists Silvan Schüpbach and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of Renaissance, a big new climb on the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland. The pair climbed the 1220m line without the use of bolts.
James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot without side-runner
30/08/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot without side-runner
British rock climber James Pearson has repeated The Parthian Shot E10 6c at Burbage South, UK, without the side-runner in the crack on the right. The Brit, no newcomer to hard and dangerous trad ascents, stated after his repeat 'This one means a lot.'
Dolomites Cima Grande di Lavaredo x 600 for Heini Gütl
28/08/2023 - Alpinism
Dolomites Cima Grande di Lavaredo x 600 for Heini Gütl
The other day the 69-year-old mountain guide from Sexten, South Tyrol, Italy Heini Gütl reached the summit of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Dolomites for the 600th time
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
24/08/2023 - Alpinism
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
The report and route topo of 'Utúlie‘n Aurë' (8-/RS3/I), the new multi-pitch first ascended in mid-July on the West Face of Coston d'Averau (Nuvolau, Dolomites) by Czech mountaineers Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka and Anna Coubalová.
Benjamin Védrines completes fast Aiguille Dibona solo
23/08/2023 - Alpinism
Benjamin Védrines completes fast Aiguille Dibona solo
The video of French mountaineer Benjamin Védrines who, starting from the car park, climbed Aiguille Dibona (3130m) via the Madier route in 1 hour and 24 minutes.
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales
18/08/2023 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales
At Rhoscolyn on the island of Anglesey in North Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated the E9 trad climb 'Olwen' while her husband James Pearson has repeated the E10 'Prisoners of the sun'.
Connor Herson's staggering Squamish sending spree
17/08/2023 - Climbing
Connor Herson's staggering Squamish sending spree
American climber Connor Herson has made the second ascent of Crack of Destiny (5.14b/8c) and a fast repeat of Cobra Crack (5.14b/8c) at Squamish, Canada. Other repeats include Spirit Quest (5.14d/9a), Tainted Love (5.13d R/8b) and the multipitch Télmexw (5.13c/8a+).
Skapelsen repeated free on Tågveggen in Norway by Eivind Hugaas and Kalle Olsson
03/08/2023 - Climbing
Skapelsen repeated free on Tågveggen in Norway by Eivind Hugaas and Kalle Olsson
On 24 - 25 June 2023 Eivind Hugaas and Kalle Olsson completed what is likely to be the first free repeat of Skapelsen on Tågveggen (Tågwall) in Litldalen, Norway. The 700 m climb was first ascended in 1986 by Anders Lundahl and Eva Selin.
Vasil Vasil: the world's third 9b+ through the eyes of Adam Ondra & Will Bosi
25/07/2023 - Climbing
Vasil Vasil: the world's third 9b+ through the eyes of Adam Ondra & Will Bosi
Watch the video of Adam Ondra climbing and Will Bosi discussing 'Vasil Vasil', the world's third 9b+ first ascended by Ondra a decade ago.

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