1784 News found

Italian alpinist Stefano Ragazzo has made the first rope-solo ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless Tower (6251m) in the Trango Tower group in Pakistan. The most famous big wall at altitude was established in 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora.

Starting from Advanced Base Camp, on 28 July 2024 French alpinist Benjamin Védrines climbed K2 without supplementary oxygen in just 10 hours 59 minutes and 59 seconds.

Climbing alpine style from 1-6 July 2024, Czech mountaineers Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák completed the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (7,453m) in the Karakoram, Pakistan. Hák reports about the climb up the peak famed for having been the highest unclimbed mountain in the world.

On 14 July 2024 Norwegian climber Tuva Stavø made the first female ascent of 'Arctandria' on Store Blåmann in Norway.

Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.

On Monday 17 June a team of climbers hung a banner on El Capitan in Yosemite reading 'Stop the Genocide', to raise awareness of the conflict and put pressure on Israel to end the war in Gaza.

Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour push on 12 June 2024.

A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs in France.

British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...

We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.

Swiss climber Didier Berthod has repeated Cobra Crack at Squamish in Canada. Freed by Sonnie Trotter in 2006 and hailed as one of the hardest crack climbs in the world at the time, this fierce splitter was almost freed by Berthod in 2005.

Walter Bonatti, Mont Blanc, his mountaineering. The new episode of the Petzl Legend Tour Italy takes you on a journey through history and time. After a visit to the National Museum of the Mountain, Federica Mingolla and Alberto Boschiazzo climb to the summit of Grand Capucin via the 'Bonatti-Ghigo' route,...

British climber Mat Wright has repeated Rhapsody, the E11 7a trad climb located at Dumbarton Rock in Scotland, first ascended by Dave Macleod in 2006.

On 12/04/2024 Fay Manners and Anna Tybor skied the North East Ramp on Epaule Sallière at Les Marécottes. This is believed to be the first ski descent of this 5.3 line.

Jonathan Bonaventura reports about 'I Colombiani', the new multi-pitch climb established on Parete dei Rotoli on Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily) with Fabrizio Carmina and Martino Quintavalla.

Luca Giupponi report about 'Tokyo 2021' established on Torre Est in the Vajolet Towers, Rosengarten / Catinaccio, Dolomites. First ascended with Marco Fiorentini and Dino Vanzetta, the route is dedicated to Alex Toniolli.