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Iceland ice climbing expedition report
28/03/2007 - Alpinism
Iceland ice climbing expedition report
At the end of February Albert Leichtfried, Markus Bendler, Ines Papert and Audrey Gariepy travelled to Iceland to explore its potential in memory of their friend Harald Berger who died tragically in December 2006.
Fegefeuer IX on Acopan Tepui, Venezuela, by Stefan Glowacz, Kurt Albert & Co
02/03/2007 - Climbing
Fegefeuer IX on Acopan Tepui, Venezuela, by Stefan Glowacz, Kurt Albert & Co
At the end of December a German team led by Stefan Glowacz and Kurt Albert travelled to Venezuela where it established "Fegefeuer" IX, a new 700m route on Akopan Tepui, 2200m.
'Osa, ma non troppo', Cerro Cota 2000 (Paine, Patagonia)
21/02/2007 - Alpinism
'Osa, ma non troppo', Cerro Cota 2000 (Paine, Patagonia)
From 21 - 26 January 2007 the Italians Elio Orlandi, Michele Cagol, Fabio Leoni and Rolando Larcher made the first ascent of "Osa ma non troppo", a 700m line up the E Face of Cerro Cota 2000 (Torres del Paine, Patagonia). A beautiful route, great company and a fantastic adventure...
Ragni di Lecco climbing in Mali
07/02/2007 - Climbing
Ragni di Lecco climbing in Mali
Last December four Italian Ragni di Lecco climbers travelled to Mali where they made three new first ascents in the Hombori region of the African republic.
Piolet d'or 2006 awarded to Prezelj and Lorencic for Chomo Lhari
29/01/2007 - Alpinism
Piolet d'or 2006 awarded to Prezelj and Lorencic for Chomo Lhari
On 26 January 2007 Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorencic from Slovenia were awarded the "Golden ice axe" for their new route on Chomo Lhari. Pavle Kozjek was awarded the Spectators Choice for his new route climbed solo up Cho Oyu. This was the 16th edition of the mountaineering award, created...
16th Piolet d'or: alpine style Himalayan mountaineering
24/01/2007 - Alpinism
16th Piolet d'or: alpine style Himalayan mountaineering
On Friday 16 January 2007 the five teams nominated for the award will present their ascent to the public and the (desired and prestigious) golden ice axe will be awarded to the "ascent of the year".
British trad extremes
18/01/2007 - Climbing
British trad extremes
James Pearson makes the first ascent of "The Promise" E10 7a, at Burbage North, Dave McLeod repeats "Blind Vision" at Froggat and Ben Cossey from Australia makes an audacious headtorch repeat of John Dunne's famous The Parthion Shot E9 6c.
Baffin 2006, the island at the edge of the world
28/12/2006 - Alpinism
Baffin 2006, the island at the edge of the world
Polar bears, icebergs, a sailing boat, whales and a plethora of unclimbed rock and thousands of new routes to be climbed...In mid August 2006 the Italian Mountain Guides Michele Maggioni and Marco Zaninetti set off with Cristina, Giovanni and the Arctic Guide Kim to the remote Baffin Island in search...
Jasper and Schäli repeat Bocconi amari on Monte Emilius
01/12/2006 - Alpinism
Jasper and Schäli repeat Bocconi amari on Monte Emilius
On 7 November Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first repeat of "Bocconi amari". This difficult mixed route was first ascended by Rossano Libera and Ezio Marlier on 26 October up the north face of the Triangolo nero on Monte Emilius, the prime mountain...
Leo Houlding interview
29/11/2006 - Interviews
Leo Houlding interview
Climber, mountaineer, but also keen snowboarder, surfer, skydiver, base jumper and nature lover, Leo Houlding is one of the most famous rock climbers and mountaineers in the world.
Short cut 7c+ new route on Tsaranoro wall, Madagascar
22/11/2006 - Climbing
Short cut 7c+ new route on Tsaranoro wall, Madagascar
At the end of September Florian Scheimpflug, Tomáš Sobotka, Ondra Benés and Harald Berger travelled to the Andringitra National Park in Madagascar where they made the first ascent of 'Short Cut' 7c+ 750m and a repeat of 'Bravo les Filles' 8b on the immense Tsaranoro wall.
Larcher frees Via Bepi Mazzotti on Dain
16/10/2006 - Climbing
Larcher frees Via Bepi Mazzotti on Dain
On 2 October Rolando Larcher made the first free ascent of "Via Bepi Mazzotti" on the Piccolo Dain (Sarca valley, Italy).
Fabrizio Droetto repeats Noia 8c+ at Andonno
12/10/2006 - Climbing
Fabrizio Droetto repeats Noia 8c+ at Andonno
On 10 October Fabrizio Droetto repeated Noia, the legendary 8c+ at Andonno, first ascended by Severino Scassa in 1993.
Amico Fragile: Sardina multi-pitch 7c+/8a
05/10/2006 - Climbing
Amico Fragile: Sardina multi-pitch 7c+/8a
In August the Italians Marco Vago and Simone Pedeferri completed their new route up M.te Donneittu (Codula de Luna, Sardinia) called Amico Fragile and graded 7c+/8a .
Nico Favresse and Ivo Ninov are Lost in translation on El Capitan
19/09/2006 - Climbing
Nico Favresse and Ivo Ninov are Lost in translation on El Capitan
On 30 August Nicolas Favresse made the first ascent of "Lost in translation" a 400m, 10-pitch free climb (5.12b/c) on the East Face of El Capitan together with 30-year-old Ivo Ninov from Bulgaria.
Guvercinlik Valley, Turkey: new routes for Sterni, Florit, Larcher and Oviglia
14/09/2006 - Climbing
Guvercinlik Valley, Turkey: new routes for Sterni, Florit, Larcher and Oviglia
During the first half of August 2006 the Italians Mauro Florit, Marco Sterni, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia traveled to Turkey's Guvercinlik Valley in the Ala Daglar massif where they established four new routes.

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