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Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
07/06/2024 - Alpinism
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed West Face of Hungchi (7029m) in Nepal. Their 1700m high new route, 'Le cavalier sans tête', was climbed alpine style from 17 - 19 May and involved a descent via the mountain's east face.
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
24/05/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
22/05/2024 - Climbing
Huge rockfall at Sessi wipes out crag in Susa Valley, Italy
A large portion of Sessi, one of the best crags in the entire Valle di Susa, has succumbed to rockfall. Carlo Giuliberti reports.
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70° ice/snow) is only the second ascent of the mountain. Following...
New multipitch on Jebel Oujdad in Taghia (Morocco) by Iñaki Marco & Iker Pou
30/04/2024 - Climbing
New multipitch on Jebel Oujdad in Taghia (Morocco) by Iñaki Marco & Iker Pou
On the SW Face of Jebel Oujdad Iñaki Marco and Iker Pou have made the first ascent of 'Bihotz Handi' (7c/320m).
New multi-pitch up Punta Emma on Rosengarten, Dolomites
22/04/2024 - Alpinism
New multi-pitch up Punta Emma on Rosengarten, Dolomites
The report by Luca Giupponi who in 2023 with Rolando Larcher made the ground-up first ascent of the 'Giupponi-Larcher' up Punta Emma on Rosengarten / Catinaccio, Dolomites.
Tokyo 2021, new multipitch on Vajolet Towers in the Dolomites
17/04/2024 - Alpinism
Tokyo 2021, new multipitch on Vajolet Towers in the Dolomites
Luca Giupponi report about 'Tokyo 2021' established on Torre Est in the Vajolet Towers, Rosengarten / Catinaccio, Dolomites. First ascended with Marco Fiorentini and Dino Vanzetta, the route is dedicated to Alex Toniolli.
Lorenzo Bogliacino frees Trainspotting (9a+) in Val Tanaro, Italy
15/04/2024 - Climbing
Lorenzo Bogliacino frees Trainspotting (9a+) in Val Tanaro, Italy
Italian climber Lorenzo Bogliacino has made the first ascent of 'Trainspotting' (9a) at La Stazione in Val Tanaro, Piedmont, Italy. The 27-year-old reports.
Watch Marek Holeček & Matěj Bernát establish Simply Beautiful on Sura Peak in Nepal
27/03/2024 - Alpinism
Watch Marek Holeček & Matěj Bernát establish Simply Beautiful on Sura Peak in Nepal
The video of the first ascent of Simply Beautiful, the climb first ascended on Sura Peak in Nepal in May 2023 by Czech mountaineers Marek Holeček and Matěj Bernát.
New climb on El Mocho in Patagonia by Nico Lewin, Ignacio Mulero, Leon Riveros
08/03/2024 - Climbing
New climb on El Mocho in Patagonia by Nico Lewin, Ignacio Mulero, Leon Riveros
Ignacio Mulero, Leon Teizan Riveros Molina and Nico Lewin have made the first ascent of 'Arigato Chalten' (7c, 450m) on the north face of El Mocho in the Cerro Torre massif in Patagonia.
Luka Krajnc & Luka Lindič climb new route on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia
07/03/2024 - Alpinism
Luka Krajnc & Luka Lindič climb new route on Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia
Slovenian climbers Luka Krajnc and Luka Lindič have established 'Pot' (6c, A3, 750m), a new climb on the south face of Aguja Poincenot in Patagonia.
Cochamó valley, Chile: new big wall on Cerro Trinidad Central by Leo Gheza, Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz
01/03/2024 - Climbing
Cochamó valley, Chile: new big wall on Cerro Trinidad Central by Leo Gheza, Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz
On Cerro Trinidad Central in Valle Cochamó in Chile the Italian climbers Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz and Leo Gheza have established the big wall 'Nunca say Nunca' (5.12+/A1/1000m). Gheza reports.
Festival gorniškega filma 2024, the International Mountain Film Festival in Ljubljana & Domzale, Slovenia
10/02/2024 - Events
Festival gorniškega filma 2024, the International Mountain Film Festival in Ljubljana & Domzale, Slovenia
The 18th International Film Festival 'Festival gorniškega filma' will take place at Ljubljana and Domzale, Slovenia, from 12 - 17 February 2024. Directed by Silvo Karo, guests include Krzystof Wielicki, Leszek Cichy, Mikhail Fomin, Matteo Della Bordella, Mina Markovič, Edu Marin and many more.
New Matterhorn route established by Cazzanelli, Farina, Perruquet, Stradelli
08/02/2024 - Alpinism
New Matterhorn route established by Cazzanelli, Farina, Perruquet, Stradelli
On 06/02/2024 Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Marco Farina and Stefano Stradelli established a new route on the South Face of the Matterhorn (4,478m).
New mixed climb in Valle Argentera (Valle di Susa), Italy
29/01/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb in Valle Argentera (Valle di Susa), Italy
On 01/20/2024 Fabrizio Cuniberti, Diego Margiotta and Lucio Rinetti amde the first ascent of 'Ecofly' in Valle Argentera (Val Susa, Piedmont, Italy). Located to the left of 'Coboldo Caustico', the new mixed climb is dedicated to the mountaineer and paraglider Marco Diliberto who died in a mountaineering accident in September...

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