Big new climb on Karakorum's Sckem Braq by Chiara Gusmeroli, Matteo De Zaiacomo

Chiara Gusmeroli and Matteo De Zaiacomo have reached the summit of Sckem Braq, a 5300m mountain in Pakistan's Nangma Valley, via a new route. Established alpine style, the 900-meter line consists of 26 pitches and breaches difficulties up to 7a and A3.

The expedition, supported by the Italian Alpine Club, saw the two climbers make a first attempt on Saturday 17 August. The pair climbed 600 meters before bad weather prevented them from proceeding; they retreated to Base Camp without leaving fixed ropes and waited for the weather to improve before completing the climb on the previously unclimbed wall.

"We are super tired but happy", stated Matteo De Zaiacomo, president of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, from Pakistan. "We got lucky: we avoided two rockfalls by a matter of hours, one of which completely destroyed our tent. We are now at Base Camp and are organizing the trek back to Skardu, where we will arrive tomorrow evening. We will return home to Italy on the 1st of September."