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New big wall climb on Siren Tower in Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
23/08/2021 - Alpinism
New big wall climb on Siren Tower in Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
A strong Italian-Swiss-French trio comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer has succeeded in establishing and freeing Forum (840m, 7c) on the remote Siren Tower in Greenland. This major big wall was reached by fair means after kayaking a distance of 170km for 5 days.
New climb on Peru’s Nevado Sullcon Sur by Steve Meder, Edward Saona
19/08/2021 - Alpinism
New climb on Peru’s Nevado Sullcon Sur by Steve Meder, Edward Saona
On the 9th of August, the French-Peruvian Andinists Steve Meder and Edward Saona established a new route up the South-West Face of Nevado Sullcon Sur (5650m) in the Central Cordillera mountain range of Peru. Cara Suroeste Directa is only the 4th ascent of the mountain.
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
Dmitrii Panov reports about a Russian summer 2020 climbing expedition to Peak Kart and Peak Mechta, situated in the South Muysky Ridge area of Siberia. During the 20-day expedition the climbers forged 8 new routes, made the first ascents of 8 mountains and completed 2 ridge traverses.
Pumari Chhish East SE Ridge attempted by Tom Livingstone, Mathieu Maynadier
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
Pumari Chhish East SE Ridge attempted by Tom Livingstone, Mathieu Maynadier
In June 2021 Tom Livingstone and Mathieu Maynadier attempted the unclimbed SE Ridge of Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan. Due to prohibitive conditions they descended from 6750m.
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
26/07/2021 - Alpinism
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
Towards the end of June French mountain guides Martin Elias, Victor Saucède, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan made the first ascent of Harvest Moon, a new route on Dansam West (6600m) above the Kondus Valley in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbed alpine style, the 1600m route is graded M6 WI6. Jérôme...
Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou
15/07/2021 - Alpinism
Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou
Enenko and Iker Pou have made the first ascent of ¡Viva Perú Carajo !, a new mixed climb up the South Face of Nevado Huamashraju East in Peru. At the same time their expedition partners Manu Ponce and Micher Quito also established a new route up the mountain’s north face.
Heavenly Trap on Baruntse, Márek Holeček reports about new route with Radoslav Groh
08/06/2021 - Alpinism
Heavenly Trap on Baruntse, Márek Holeček reports about new route with Radoslav Groh
Czech alpinist Márek Holeček reports about Heavenly Trap, the new route climbed alpine style over 10 days up the West Face of Baruntse (7129m) in Nepal together with Radoslav Groh.
Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
20/05/2021 - Alpinism
Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
Czech alpinists Zdeněk Hák and Jaroslava Bánský have successfully completed the first traverse of Kangchung Shar (6030m) in Nepal. They climbed the north face of the mountain into the saddle between Kangchung Shar and Cholo, then followed the NW ridge to the top, returned to the saddle and descended the...
Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington in Alaska. Luka Lindič reports
11/05/2021 - Alpinism
Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington in Alaska. Luka Lindič reports
Luka Lindič reports about the first ascent, carried out with Ines Papert, of Heart of Stone on Mount Huntington’s West face, Central Denali Range, Alaska in April 2021.
Seán Villanueva climbs two new routes on El Mocho in Patagonia
06/04/2021 - Alpinism
Seán Villanueva climbs two new routes on El Mocho in Patagonia
The report by Belgian alpinist Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll who this season has established two new rock climbs on the north face of El Mocho in the Cerro Torre massif in Patagonia: Chalten Sin Clecas (Chalten without tickmarks) with Mecha Rocamora and Chalten sin Chapas” (Chalten without bolts) with Matías Korten.
Alex Txikon, a Manaslu winter attempt and his mountaineering
31/03/2021 - Alpinism
Alex Txikon, a Manaslu winter attempt and his mountaineering
Basque mountaineer Alex Txikon recently returned from an attempt to climb Manaslu in winter. An expedition which ended without the hoped-for success but which, once again, teaches us to 'find more important goals than the summit.'
About Tamara Lunger and K2 in winter
02/03/2021 - Alpinism
About Tamara Lunger and K2 in winter
Tamara Lunger from the South Tyrol, Italy, has recently returned home after attempting to climb K2 in winter. The expedition was an important but also tragic experience, marked by the loss of Sergi Mingote, Atanas Skatov, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, Juan Pablo Mohr and John Snorri Sigurjónsson.
K2: all hope lost of finding Juan Pablo Mohr, Muhammad Ali Sadpara and John Snorri alive
18/02/2021 - Alpinism
K2: all hope lost of finding Juan Pablo Mohr, Muhammad Ali Sadpara and John Snorri alive
During a press conference held in Skardu today Muhammad Ali Sadpara, John Snorri Sigurjónsson and Juan Pablo Mohr Prieto were officially declared dead, The three mountaineers were last seen on 5 February at the Bottleneck while climbing towards the summit of K2 in winter.
Farewell to Cala Cimenti and Patrick Negro
09/02/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cala Cimenti and Patrick Negro
Carlo Alberto Cimenti, best known as Cala, and Patrick Negro perished yesterday in an avalanche while skiing in the mountains of Susa Valley in Italy.
Still no news about missing K2 climbers Juan Pablo Mohr, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, John Snorri
08/02/2021 - Alpinism
Still no news about missing K2 climbers Juan Pablo Mohr, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, John Snorri
Search continues for the mountaineers Juan Pablo Mohr, Muhammad Ali Sadpara and John Snorri, missing on K2 since last Friday. Reconnaissance flights carried out by Pakistani military helicopters proved unsuccessful. In the meantime, two relatives of Ali Sadpara will climb K2 to try to locate the mountaineers.
Missing on K2 Juan Pablo Mohr, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, John Snorri
06/02/2021 - Alpinism
Missing on K2 Juan Pablo Mohr, Muhammad Ali Sadpara, John Snorri
Climbers Juan Pablo Mohr, Muhammad Ali Sadpara and John Snorri are currently missing on K2. The three mountaineers were last seen engaged in their push to reach the summit of the second highest mountain in the world.