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American Alpine Club climbing grants, 2011 deadlines approaching
22/03/2011 - Alpinism
American Alpine Club climbing grants, 2011 deadlines approaching
Every year the American Alpine Club awards more $50,000 every year in the form of climbing, conservation, and research grants to budding adventurers and many 2011 deadlines are fast approaching. Climbers must not necessarily be of USA origin to be receive the grants, but they must be members of the...
Broad Peak and GI, winter ascents abandoned
21/03/2011 - Alpinism
Broad Peak and GI, winter ascents abandoned
Neither the Polish mountaineers engaged on Broad Peak nor the international expedition on G1 have managed to climb these giant mountains during the coldest season, and both expedition have now abandoned their attempts.
Manolo and his Fragile Heroes in Val Noana
15/03/2011 - Climbing
Manolo and his Fragile Heroes in Val Noana
On 5 March 2011 Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla freed Eroi Fragili (8c, 30m), a new route he bolted in Val Noana (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) next to another of his creations, Stramonio.
Adam Ondra, the 8c+ on-sight interview!
10/03/2011 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, the 8c+ on-sight interview!
An exclusive interview with Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic after his outstanding 8c+ on-sights in Spain, including Bizi euskaraz 8c+ at Etxauri.
Adam Ondra, interview after La Capella 9b at Siurana
07/03/2011 - Interviews
Adam Ondra, interview after La Capella 9b at Siurana
Interview with Adam Ondra after his first ascent of La Capella at Siurana, Spain, which the 18-year-old from the Czech Republic has tentatively graded 9b
Adam Ondra, new 9b in Siurana
17/02/2011 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, new 9b in Siurana
Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of La Capella 9b at Siurana, Spain.
Coda, new route on Aguja Desmochada, Patagonia
15/02/2011 - Alpinism
Coda, new route on Aguja Desmochada, Patagonia
On 9-10 February 2011 Neil Kauffman and Josh Wharton established Coda (V 5.11+ AO) on Aguja Desmochada, Fitz Roy massif, Patagonia.
Civetta NW Face, first winter solo ascent by Fabio Valseschini
14/02/2011 - Alpinism
Civetta NW Face, first winter solo ascent by Fabio Valseschini
On Sunday 13 February Fabio Valseschini from Lecco, Italy, completed the first solo winter ascent of the great Via dei Cinque di Valmadrera (1350m, VI+ A3) on the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites. After 7 bivvies on the mountain and an 8th beneath the summit, Valseschini completed the undertaking today...
Solo per i tuoi occhi, the great icefall on Monte Pelmo climbed by Ballico and Milanese
10/02/2011 - Alpinism
Solo per i tuoi occhi, the great icefall on Monte Pelmo climbed by Ballico and Milanese
On 23/01/2011 Giuseppe Ballico and Marco Milanesi carried out what is believe to be the first ascent of Solo per i tuoi occhi (300m, V, WI 5+ XRM), the massive drip on the ESE Face of Monte Pelmo, Dolomites.
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, descent to Base Camp with avalanche for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
04/02/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: after the summit, descent to Base Camp with avalanche for Moro, Urubko and Richards!
Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards have now reached Base Camp after an arduous descent during which they were hit by an avalanche. This historic first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (8035m, Karakorum, Pakistan) now draws to a close.
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
21/12/2010 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
Gabriele Moroni talks about Il frutto del diavolo 8c+/9a, his new route bolted and freed at Bus de Vela close to Arco, Italy.
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
17/12/2010 - Alpinism
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
02/12/2010 - Climbing
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
In October 2010 Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi established Red, Moon and Star (8a/8a+ max, 7b obl., 400m) up the North Face of Kizilin Bacì (Ala Daglar, Cappadocia, Turkey).
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
25/11/2010 - Interviews
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.
Valle del Orco new climbs by British team
12/11/2010 - Climbing
Valle del Orco new climbs by British team
British climbers Tom Randall, Pete Whittaker and Adam Bailes have established a series of new routes in one of Europe's premier granite rock climbing areas, the Valle dell'Orco in northern Italy.
The Nose, new record on El Capitan by Leary and Potter
08/11/2010 - Climbing
The Nose, new record on El Capitan by Leary and Potter
Sean Leary and Dean Potter have set a new Speed record on The Nose, El Capitan, climbing the route in 2:36:45

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