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Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
04/06/2024 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini perishes in Peru
Italian mountain guide Tomas Franchini has died while climbing Nevado Cashan in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru. The 35-year-old was among the most talented of his generation.
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
24/05/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
23/05/2024 - Alpinism
Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation
We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.
Didier Berthod finally climbs Cobra Crack at Squamish, Canada
15/05/2024 - Climbing
Didier Berthod finally climbs Cobra Crack at Squamish, Canada
Swiss climber Didier Berthod has repeated Cobra Crack at Squamish in Canada. Freed by Sonnie Trotter in 2006 and hailed as one of the hardest crack climbs in the world at the time, this fierce splitter was almost freed by Berthod in 2005.
Big new mixed climb on Mt. Dickey in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge by Tom Livingstone, Gašper Pintar
02/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Mt. Dickey in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge by Tom Livingstone, Gašper Pintar
From 14-17 April 2024 Britain's Tom Livingstone and Slovenia's Gašper Pintar made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'The Great Wall' on the South Face of Mt. Dickey (2909m) in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska.
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
23/04/2024 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
British climber James Pearson has made the third ascent of Bernd Zangerl’s 8A+ highball boulder problem '29 Dots' in Val Noasca, Valle dell'Orco, Italy.
Cool new multi-pitch climb above Palermo cemetery in Sicily
18/04/2024 - Climbing
Cool new multi-pitch climb above Palermo cemetery in Sicily
Jonathan Bonaventura reports about 'I Colombiani', the new multi-pitch climb established on Parete dei Rotoli on Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily) with Fabrizio Carmina and Martino Quintavalla.
Tokyo 2021, new multipitch on Vajolet Towers in the Dolomites
17/04/2024 - Alpinism
Tokyo 2021, new multipitch on Vajolet Towers in the Dolomites
Luca Giupponi report about 'Tokyo 2021' established on Torre Est in the Vajolet Towers, Rosengarten / Catinaccio, Dolomites. First ascended with Marco Fiorentini and Dino Vanzetta, the route is dedicated to Alex Toniolli.
Piz Güglia NW Couloir established solo by Roger Schäli
10/04/2024 - Alpinism
Piz Güglia NW Couloir established solo by Roger Schäli
On 20/03/2024 Swiss mountaineer Roger Schäli made the first ascent of 'Nordwestwand Couloir' (WI5+, M5+, 600m) on Piz Güglia (3380m) in Switzerland's Engadin region.
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
02/04/2024 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
Interview with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll after the first traverse of the four main peaks of the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia, Chile. The Belgian alpinist climbed Torre Sur, Torre Central, Torre Norte and La Peineta solo from 23 - 26 February 2024 and called the enchainment 'Travesía Doble M'.
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
29/03/2024 - Alpinism
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
Austrian alpinist Barbara Vigl reports about a repeat of the 'Gervasutti-Gagliardone' on the East Face of the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif, carried out in July 2023 by Vigl with Anna Truntschnig and Anna Zechling. Apart from possibly being the first all-female ascent of this route, the repeat underscores the...
La Venta beyond limits / Exploring the Qanaf Cave in Oman
27/03/2024 - Environment
La Venta beyond limits / Exploring the Qanaf Cave in Oman
The Italian La Venta association reports about its first expedition to explore the Qanaf Cave and depths of the desert plateau of Jabal Samḥān in southern Oman.
Hypnotic Lain and Folie Perseverante, two new mixed climbs at Envers des Aiguilles, Mont Blanc massif
25/03/2024 - Alpinism
Hypnotic Lain and Folie Perseverante, two new mixed climbs at Envers des Aiguilles, Mont Blanc massif
Santiago Padròs reports about his February 2024 first ascents of two mixed climbs at Envers des Aiguilles in the Mont Blanc massif: 'Hypnotic Lain' on Pointe de Nantillons with Oliver Gajewski dedicated to Line van den Berg, and 'Folie Perseverante' on Capucin du Requin, climbed with Valérie Dupont and...
JB Liautard wins Grand Prize of 34th Memorial María Luisa Photo Contest
20/03/2024 - Book-press
JB Liautard wins Grand Prize of 34th Memorial María Luisa Photo Contest
The Grand Prize of the 34th edition of the Memorial Maria Luisa Photo contest was awarded to French photographer JB Liautard for his photograph entitled The Dune. Fifteen major awards and nine honorable mentions were assigned this year.
Cochamó valley, Chile: new big wall on Cerro Trinidad Central by Leo Gheza, Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz
01/03/2024 - Climbing
Cochamó valley, Chile: new big wall on Cerro Trinidad Central by Leo Gheza, Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz
On Cerro Trinidad Central in Valle Cochamó in Chile the Italian climbers Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz and Leo Gheza have established the big wall 'Nunca say Nunca' (5.12+/A1/1000m). Gheza reports.

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