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New ice climbs in Austria's Floitental by Leichtfried, Purner & Co
08/02/2011 - Alpinism
New ice climbs in Austria's Floitental by Leichtfried, Purner & Co
Two new icefalls in the Floitental (Zillertal), Austria: Excalibur (WI6/R, 120m, Albert Leichtfried & Paul Mair 30/01/2011) and Quasimodo (M7 WI7, 90m, Benedikt Purner & Klaus Pietersteiner 03/02/2011).
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
28/01/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
On 25 Janaury 2011 Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards installed Camp 2 at 6500m on Gasherbrum II. In doing so they carried out another important step in their attempt to carry out the first winter ascent of the 13th highest mountain in the world.
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
01/01/2011 - Climbing
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
On 28 December 2010 the American climber Cody Roth carried out the first repeat of Malvasia at Dvigrad in Croatia, the route bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla which no one had managed to repeat. Roth believes the route to be a good 8c+... The...
Night Terror, Lobuche East, Kauffman shares ascent details
28/12/2010 - Alpinism
Night Terror, Lobuche East, Kauffman shares ascent details
Joel Kauffman reports about the ascent of Night Terror (VI WI5+ AI4 M7 85°) on Lobuche East, Nepal, carried out with fellow American Jared Vilhauer.
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
17/12/2010 - Alpinism
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.
Grotta del Lupo, drytooling in the Dolomites
13/12/2010 - Alpinism
Grotta del Lupo, drytooling in the Dolomites
Gianmario Meneghin introduces the drytooling crag Grotta del Lupoon LakeCentro di Cadore in the Dolomites.
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
02/12/2010 - Climbing
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
In October 2010 Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi established Red, Moon and Star (8a/8a+ max, 7b obl., 400m) up the North Face of Kizilin Bacì (Ala Daglar, Cappadocia, Turkey).
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
30/11/2010 - Alpinism
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
Simone Moro discusses helicopter rescues in the Himalaya, starting with the accident on Ama Dablam which cost the lives of two of his friends, the pilot Sabin Basnyat and the rescue operator Purna Awale, on a mission to rescue the alpinists David Göttler and Hiraide Kazuya.
Patagonia, Holzknecht and Moroder climb Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre
19/11/2010 - Alpinism
Patagonia, Holzknecht and Moroder climb Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre
In Patagonia Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder have climbed Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre in rapid alpine style. In the meantime Rolando Garibotti has removed 17 bolts from Cerro Torre placed last year by the team headed by David Lama.
Lleida, sport climbing in Spain
18/11/2010 - Climbing
Lleida, sport climbing in Spain
Lleida in Spain has been developing fast into one of the world's premier sport climbing areas, thanks in great part to one of the main activists, Dani Andrada. Pete O'Donovan introduces the Catalonian delights.
Dave Birkett adds major new route to Dyer's Lookout
04/11/2010 - Climbing
Dave Birkett adds major new route to Dyer's Lookout
British rock climber Dave Birkett has carried out the first ascent of Once Upon a Time in the Southwest E9 6c at Dyer's Lookout, Devon, England.
Zalia Rakhmetov, things are looking better
29/10/2010 - Climbing
Zalia Rakhmetov, things are looking better
Anna Piunova reports about the latest developments concerning Zaila Rakhmetov, the daughter of Salavat and Guzel Rakhmetov, injured in an accident in Turkey.
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
27/10/2010 - Climbing
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
From 20 - 24 September the Italians Giovanni Ongaro, Andrea Pavan and Davide Spini (Team Altroverso) established Atlante Perverso (350m, 8a max, 7b obl.) on the north face of Monte Oujad, Taghia, in the High Atlas mountain range in Morocco.
Sílvia Vidal, Naufragi big wall in Kinnaur Valley, India
23/10/2010 - Alpinism
Sílvia Vidal, Naufragi big wall in Kinnaur Valley, India
From 15/08/2010 to 08/09/2010 big wall specialist Sílvia Vidal from Spain established Naufragi (1050m, A4+/6a+) in the Kinnaur Valley, India
Manolo sends Stramonio, Erba dei ladri in Val Noana
20/10/2010 - Climbing
Manolo sends Stramonio, Erba dei ladri in Val Noana
On 10 October 2010 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla freed Stramonio, a 30m route in Val Noana, Dolomites.
Greenland 2010 roundup and Nico Favresse interview
19/10/2010 - Alpinism
Greenland 2010 roundup and Nico Favresse interview
Interview with Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse after his three month climbing and sailing trip to Greenland.