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New Chironico parking & sleeping rules for 2024
07/02/2024 - Climbing
New Chironico parking & sleeping rules for 2024
New rules for parking and overnight stays have been implemented at Switzerland's top bouldering area Chironico. Climbers are asked to adhere to these regulations in order to safeguard future access to this premier Ticino bouldering area.
New mixed climb in Valle Argentera (Valle di Susa), Italy
29/01/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb in Valle Argentera (Valle di Susa), Italy
On 01/20/2024 Fabrizio Cuniberti, Diego Margiotta and Lucio Rinetti amde the first ascent of 'Ecofly' in Valle Argentera (Val Susa, Piedmont, Italy). Located to the left of 'Coboldo Caustico', the new mixed climb is dedicated to the mountaineer and paraglider Marco Diliberto who died in a mountaineering accident in September...
Melloblocco 2024, registration online for the 20th legendary bouldering meet
23/01/2024 - Events
Melloblocco 2024, registration online for the 20th legendary bouldering meet
Registration is open online for Melloblocco 2024, the world’s biggest bouldering and climbing meeting scheduled to take place from Wednesday 8 to Saturday 11 May in Italy's magical Val Masino and Val di Mello nature Reserve.
Il Cigno Nero, new mixed climb on Cima Falkner in Brenta Dolomites
12/01/2024 - Alpinism
Il Cigno Nero, new mixed climb on Cima Falkner in Brenta Dolomites
Enrico Lovato reports about the first ascent of 'Il Cigno Nero' (320m, 5+, M7, 40°) established on the north-east face of Cima Falkner in the Brenta Dolomites with Federico Asciolla on 5 January 2024.
Melloblocco 2024 to take place from 8 to 11 May in Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy
10/01/2024 - Events
Melloblocco 2024 to take place from 8 to 11 May in Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy
From 8 to 11 May 2024 Val di Mello - Val Masino will once again host the Melloblocco, the largest bouldering meeting in the world.
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France
15/12/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson suggests E12 for his Bon Voyage at Annot in France
After the first ascent in February 2023, British climber James Pearson has now proposed the grade E12 for Bon Voyage at Annot in France. Currently there is no other trad route of this grade. In this great introspective piece the 30-year-old British climber talks about the path that led him...
ACTS open letter to IFSC protesting against NEOM Beach Games and environmental and ethical policy
05/12/2023 - Environment
ACTS open letter to IFSC protesting against NEOM Beach Games and environmental and ethical policy
The ACTS For Our Summits association has written an Open Letter to the IFSC expressing its concerns about the NEOM Masters 2023 climbing competition, and urging the IFSC to take stronger actions regarding environmental and social issues. Over 110 IFSC athletes, professional climbers, and associations have already co-signed the letter....
Ultima Perla added to Agner in the Dolomites by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai
27/11/2023 - Alpinism
Ultima Perla added to Agner in the Dolomites by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai
On the north face of Agner (Valle di San Lucano, Dolomites) Nicola Bertoldo and Diego Dellai have made the first ascent of the mixed climb Ultima Perla (350m, 5+, M6, 50°).
A petition to 'save' the Sassolungo mountain group in the Dolomites
06/11/2023 - Environment
A petition to 'save' the Sassolungo mountain group in the Dolomites
An online petition has been launched to 'save' the Sassolungo Group in the Dolomites from privatisation. Over 45 thousand signatures have been collected so far.
Memorial María Luisa Photo Contest call for entries
02/11/2023 - Book-press
Memorial María Luisa Photo Contest call for entries
The 34th Memorial María Luisa International Mountain, nature and Adventure Photo and Video Contest is calling for entries. The deadline is 1 December 2023.
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
19/10/2023 - Alpinism
Jirishanca, Pumari Chhish East, Jugal Spire win Piolets d'Or 2023, Northern Sun Spire in Greenland receives Special Mention
The organisers of the Piolets d'Or 2023 have awarded the following climbs: Jirishanca in Peru by Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts, Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede and Jérôme Sullivan, and Jugal Spire in Nepal by Tim Miller and Paul Ramsden. A special mention has been...
Simon Gietl makes solo first ascent of adventurous Identität in Dolomites
29/09/2023 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl makes solo first ascent of adventurous Identität in Dolomites
The South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Gietl has made the solo first ascent of 'Identität' solo, a new route up the west face of the Mittlerer Zwölfer / Croda Antonio Berti in the Sexten and Auronzo Dolomites.
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
19/08/2023 - Alpinism
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
Remembering Ermanno Salvaterra, the great Italian mountaineer of the Brenta Dolomites and Patagonia, who perished yesterday while climbing on Campanile Alto di Brenta.
La Severina 2.0, new climbs at the spectacular crag in Campania, Italy
26/05/2023 - Climbing
La Severina 2.0, new climbs at the spectacular crag in Campania, Italy
This spring La Severina, the spectacular crag in Cilento in Campania, Italy, was developed further and currently features 30 pitches ranging from 6b to 8b+. Rolando Larcher provides the info, while a video by Sergio Morra introduces this 'overhanging forest of stalactites' located between San Severino di Centola and the...
Celebrations in Crete as Paligremnos - Plakias declared monument of Natural and Cultural Heritage
22/05/2023 - Climbing
Celebrations in Crete as Paligremnos - Plakias declared monument of Natural and Cultural Heritage
The cliff Paligremnos - Plakias on the island of Crete in Greece has been declared a monument of Natural and Cultural Heritage. A recent Greek court order now prohibits the construction of a tourist resort above the crag which was at risk of closure. The rock and beach below are...
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Genius, hard & runout multipitch in Sardinia
15/05/2023 - Climbing
Aleksandra Taistra repeats Genius, hard & runout multipitch in Sardinia
On 20 April 2023 Polish climber Aleksandra Taistra repeated Genius (8b, 300m) on Monte Ginnircu in Sardinia, Italy. Established in 2010 by Fabio Palma, Domenico Soldarini and Matteo della Bordella, the line had previously been ascended completely only once before, by Pietro dal Prà in 2012.