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Janja Garnbret reigns supreme in Innsbruck, Amagasa Sohta wins Boulder, Jakob Schubert claims Lead
01/07/2024 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret reigns supreme in Innsbruck, Amagasa Sohta wins Boulder, Jakob Schubert claims Lead
The fourth IFSC World Cup stage of the season took place in Innsbruck, Austria last week. Boulder was won by Janja Garnbret and Amagasa Sohta, while Lead was won by Garnbret and Jakob Schubert.
Budapest makes and breaks Paris 2024 Olympic dreams
28/06/2024 - Competitions
Budapest makes and breaks Paris 2024 Olympic dreams
Eddie Fowke reports about the second and final Olympic Qualifying Series that took place in Budapest, Hungary, from 20 to 23 June. Stakes were extremely high as after Shanghai this represented the last chance for 24 Combined Boulder & Lead climbers and 14 Speed athletes to qualify for the Paris...
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs in France.
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
24/05/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl perishes on Scharnitzspitze
Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70° ice/snow) is only the second ascent of the mountain. Following...
Shanghai Olympic Qualifier Series: Ievgeniia Kazbekova & Lee Dohyun lead Boulder & Lead provisional rankings
16/05/2024 - Competitions
Shanghai Olympic Qualifier Series: Ievgeniia Kazbekova & Lee Dohyun lead Boulder & Lead provisional rankings
The opening competition day of the Olympic Qualifier Series in Boulder & Lead in Shanghai, China, concluded with Lee Dohyun and Ievgeniia Kazbekova at the top of the Boulder & Lead provisional rankings.
Speed & Boulder World Cups to take place in Salt Lake City, USA
03/05/2024 - Competitions
Speed & Boulder World Cups to take place in Salt Lake City, USA
The second stages of the Speed World Cup 2024 and Boulder World Cup 2024 will take place in Salt Lake City, USA, from 3 - 5 May 2024.
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
23/04/2024 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Bernd Zangerl's huge highball 29Dots in Valle dell'Orco, Italy
British climber James Pearson has made the third ascent of Bernd Zangerl’s 8A+ highball boulder problem '29 Dots' in Val Noasca, Valle dell'Orco, Italy.
New multi-pitch up Punta Emma on Rosengarten, Dolomites
22/04/2024 - Alpinism
New multi-pitch up Punta Emma on Rosengarten, Dolomites
The report by Luca Giupponi who in 2023 with Rolando Larcher made the ground-up first ascent of the 'Giupponi-Larcher' up Punta Emma on Rosengarten / Catinaccio, Dolomites.
Sarah Dreier and Remi Bonnet win Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024 Vertical
06/04/2024 - Competitions
Sarah Dreier and Remi Bonnet win Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024 Vertical
The last stage of the 2024 Vertical World Cup took place in Cortina, Italy, today and was won by Axelle Gachet-Mollaret from France and Remi Bonnet from Swtizerland. The overall season title was won by Bonnet and Sarah Dreier from Austria.
Jacopo Larcher, The Traditionalist Chapter 3
30/03/2024 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher, The Traditionalist Chapter 3
The third and final episode of 'The Traditionalist' following Jacopo Larcher as he explores hard trad climbing around the world. The third chapter focuses on hard trad climbing on mainland Europe.
Seb Berthe makes 3rd ascent of Bon Voyage (E12) at Annot in France
26/03/2024 - Climbing
Seb Berthe makes 3rd ascent of Bon Voyage (E12) at Annot in France
Sébastien Berthe has repeated 'Bon Voyage', the E12 at Annot in France established by James Pearson in February 2023. The route was repeated for the first time by Adam Ondra in February 2023, and Berthe's is now the third ascent. The Belgian climber, who in 2023 flashed the adjacent 'Le...
Watch Jacopo Larcher trad climbing in the UK
23/03/2024 - Climbing
Watch Jacopo Larcher trad climbing in the UK
The second episode of 'The Traditionalist', a new 3-part film series following Jacopo Larcher as he explores hard trad climbing around the world. The second chapter focuses on hard grit and trad climbing in the UK.
Bronwyn Hodgins climbs her first 8c+, La Rubia at Villanueva Del Rosario
04/03/2024 - Climbing
Bronwyn Hodgins climbs her first 8c+, La Rubia at Villanueva Del Rosario
On 28 February 2024 Bronwyn Hodgins of Canada climbed her first 8c+, 'La Rubia' at Villanueva Del Rosario in Spain
Full Pakke established at Bodø in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Kristian Vindvik
15/02/2024 - Alpinism
Full Pakke established at Bodø in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Kristian Vindvik
Joda Dolmans and Kristian Vindvik have made the first ascent of 'Full Pakke' (M5, WI6, R) at Bodø in northern Norway. Dolmans reports about the new mixed outing he describes as 'one of the best new winter routes that I’ve climbed.'
Festival gorniškega filma 2024, the International Mountain Film Festival in Ljubljana & Domzale, Slovenia
10/02/2024 - Events
Festival gorniškega filma 2024, the International Mountain Film Festival in Ljubljana & Domzale, Slovenia
The 18th International Film Festival 'Festival gorniškega filma' will take place at Ljubljana and Domzale, Slovenia, from 12 - 17 February 2024. Directed by Silvo Karo, guests include Krzystof Wielicki, Leszek Cichy, Mikhail Fomin, Matteo Della Bordella, Mina Markovič, Edu Marin and many more.