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Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
21/06/2010 - Alpinism
Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
In May the Italian 'Cordillera 2010' expedition comprised of Andrea Di Donato, Roberto Iannilli and Ivo Scappatura established "El sueño de los excluidos" (1440m, max VII/VII+, A2) on the SE Face of Nevado Shaqsha (Quebrada Rurec Valley, Huantsàn, Cordillera Blanca, Perù). During the same time period Luca D’Andrea and Massimo...
Wild Country, new route on Telendos, Kalymnos
09/06/2010 - Climbing
Wild Country, new route on Telendos, Kalymnos
Urs Odermatt and Peter Keller have carried out the first ascent of Wild Country (6a, 265m) on the island of Telendos, opposite Kalymnos in Greece.
Mateusz Haladaj, 9a hattrick
26/05/2010 - Climbing
Mateusz Haladaj, 9a hattrick
Polish climber Mateusz Haladaj has repeated his third 9a, Martin Krpan at Misja Pec, Slovenia.
Dave Birkett repeats the Walk of Life
21/05/2010 - Climbing
Dave Birkett repeats the Walk of Life
Dave Birkett has carried out the third ascent of The Walk of Life at Dyer's Lookout, North Devon, England.
Red River Gorge, climbing iPhone app
30/04/2010 - Book-press
Red River Gorge, climbing iPhone app
Wolverine Publishing is due to launch the first comprehensive iPhone app for Red River Gorge in Kentucky, USA. Planetmountain took a brief look at this new digital content.
Climbing World Championship 2011 and Rock Master 2010 online
26/04/2010 - Climbing
Climbing World Championship 2011 and Rock Master 2010 online
The official website of the IFSC Climbing World Championship 2011 in Arco is now online. The portal also hosts all the information about the next edition of the classic Rock Master competition which has been brought forward to July 2010 as a World Championship pre-event.
Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
21/04/2010 - Alpinism
Ginat route, les Droites, Ueli Steck solo video
In January 2010 Ueli Steck soloed the Ginat route (ED,V, M4+, 85°, 1000m) up the North Face of Les Droites in 2:08. Check out the video and interview.
Action Directe 9a climbed by Gabriele Moroni, too
18/04/2010 - Climbing
Action Directe 9a climbed by Gabriele Moroni, too
Gabriele Moroni and the first Italian ascent of Action Directe 9a, the route freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991 and which still today represents an important test for sport climbing.
Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
30/03/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2010: the candidates and the evenings in Courmayeur and Chamonix
The Piolet d'Or 2010 will take place from 8 - 10 April in the towns of Courmayeur and Chamonix with a series of conferences, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities. The event begins on Thursday 8 April in Courmayeur with an evening dedicated to young climbing partnerships...
Civetta North West Face: first winter ascent of Captain Skyhook by Tondini and Baù
23/03/2010 - Alpinism
Civetta North West Face: first winter ascent of Captain Skyhook by Tondini and Baù
On 19 March 2010 Alessandro Baù and Nicola Tondini carried out the first winter ascent and third ascent overall of Captain Skyhook (500m + 380m pedestal, 7b+) on the Northwest Face of the Civetta, Dolomites.
Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
23/02/2010 - Competitions
Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
The International Olympic Committee (IOC) has ratified and recognised the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) during its Plenary Session at Vancouver, Canada. As the President of the IFSC Marco Scolaris explains, this is a fundamental step for sport climbing in its bid to become an Olympic sport.
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
02/02/2010 - Alpinism
Spray On, Will Gadd and Tim Emmett climb big ice at the Helmcken Falls, Canada
Will Gadd from Canada teamed up with Tim Emmett from Britain to carry out the first ascent of Spray On, a 30m ice climb at the Helmcken Falls they tentatively graded WI10.
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
20/01/2010 - Alpinism
Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
On 4 Janaury 2010 the Austrian climbers Rudolf Hauser, Alexander Holleis and Rupert Huber carried out the first integral ascen of Gamsstubenfall (800m, WI7), one of the last great icefalls in the Gasteinertal, Austria. On 12 January Hauser climbed the classic icefall Supervisor (270m, WI6) without a rope.
Landslide in the Hunza Valley, Pakistan
10/01/2010 - Alpinism
Landslide in the Hunza Valley, Pakistan
Via Simone Moro and his agency in Pakistan comes the terrible news of a landslide which struck the area close to the village Attabad in the Hunza Valley, causing deaths, destroying land communications and isolating circa 22000 people. Published below is the email by Sultan Khan of the agency Nazir...
Fabio Giacomelli killed by avalanche at Cerro Torre
07/01/2010 - Alpinism
Fabio Giacomelli killed by avalanche at Cerro Torre
On 01 January 2010 Fabio Giacomelli, the 51 year old mountaineer from Trentino, Italy, died in an avalanche at the base of the East Face of Cerro Torre. After a three day search climbing partner Elio Orlandi managed to locate the lifeless body.
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
24/12/2009 - Climbing
Climbing stories in Val San Nicolò, Italy
One day Heinz opened two new routes in Valle San Nicolò (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) and 22 years later he gave the route to Mario, who freed them. This is the story of "Alice e l'imperatore" and "Basic Instinct", told by Heinz Mariacher and Mario Prinoth.

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