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Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
05/03/2013 - Alpinism
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
On 5 March 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek made the historic first winter of Broad Peak. The Polish mountaineers are members of an expedition led by the living monument to alpinism Krzysztof Wielicki. With this latest success a staggering 9 first winter ascents of the...
Difficult boulder problems in Ticino by Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven
04/03/2013 - Climbing
Difficult boulder problems in Ticino by Katharina Saurwein and Jorg Verhoeven
At Chironico in Switzerland Katharina Saurwein flashed her first 8A boulder problem. Jorg Verhoeven made the first ascent of the problem Flash Flood 8B at Brione while at Cresciano he flashed the famous problem La Proue 8B.
King of Dolomites 2013, a great success
26/02/2013 - Events
King of Dolomites 2013, a great success
The first King of Dolomites freeride and snowboard photo contest which took place last weekend at San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites) was won by Brian Goldstone, Jose Carròn and Paolo Marazzi in the Pro category. Maurizio Fasano and Vittorio Trinca Colonel won the Wannabes category.
Ski Mountaineering World Championships 2013: Sprint and Individual races
12/02/2013 - Competitions
Ski Mountaineering World Championships 2013: Sprint and Individual races
2nd and 3rd day of the Ski Mountaineering World Championships 2013 at Les Ecrins (France) with the Sprint and Individual Cadets and Junior. Italy wins gold thanks to Davide Magnini and Alba De Silvestro!
Freeride Challenge Punta Nera 2013 at Cortina
08/02/2013 - Competitions
Freeride Challenge Punta Nera 2013 at Cortina
From 4 - 6 April 2013 Cortina d'Ampezzo, the pearl of the Dolomites, will host the Freeride Challenge Punta Nera 2013, a three day event dedicated to freeride skiing, ski mountaineering and climbing with the special boulder contest.
Senza piombo, the interview with Albert Leichtfried
06/02/2013 - Alpinism
Senza piombo, the interview with Albert Leichtfried
Interview with Albert Leichtfried after the first ascent together with Benedikt Purner of Senza piombo, the new mixed climb established in Vallunga with difficulties up to M10 WI 5 protected only with trad gear and without bolts and pegs.
Sfasciacarrozze, new ice and mixed climb in the Brenta Dolomites
23/01/2013 - Alpinism
Sfasciacarrozze, new ice and mixed climb in the Brenta Dolomites
On 27/12/2012 Massimo Faletti, Mauro Mabboni, Martino Peterlongo and Andrea Speziali completed Sfasciacarrozze (WI 6+, M7, 210m), a new ice and mixed climb established over three days on Castello di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites.
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
22/01/2013 - Alpinism
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
On 8, 9 and 10 January 2013, Giorgio Travaglia and Francesco Milani made the first wintere ascent - with two bivouacs - of "Pilastro Magno" (950m, VI), the route established in summer 1993 by Ivo Rabanser and Marco Furlani up the NE Face of Sassolungo (Dolomites).
Valeria, important new ice climb in the Brenta Dolomites
10/01/2013 - Alpinism
Valeria, important new ice climb in the Brenta Dolomites
On 6-7 January 2013 Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Via Valeria (270m, VI ice, M4+, VI+ rock) up the west face of Crozzon di Brenta, Dolomites. The route has been dedicated to Valeria Brunelli.
Jernej Kruder repeats The story of two worlds 8C at Cresciano, Switzerland
08/01/2013 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder repeats The story of two worlds 8C at Cresciano, Switzerland
At Cresciano in Switzerland Jernej Kruder has repeated the 8C boulder problem The story of two worlds.
Hellzapoppin', a journey through the history of climbing Ivo Ferrari
08/01/2013 - Climbing
Hellzapoppin', a journey through the history of climbing Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari and climbing trip back in time up Hellzapoppin', one of the most beautiful climbs in the Mediterranean, first ascended in 1977 by Gianni Battimelli, Fabrizio Antonioli, Paul Bellotti, Giorgio Mallucci and Cristiano Delisi.
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 -  part 2
07/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 2
Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.
Youth climbing competitions and interview with Tina Johnsen Hafsaas
28/12/2012 - Interviews
Youth climbing competitions and interview with Tina Johnsen Hafsaas
An analysis of the youth climbing competition scene and interview with European Lead Tina Johnsen Hafsaas. An article by Franz Schiassi.
Michele Caminati breezes The North Sail 8A+ at Cresciano
25/12/2012 - Climbing
Michele Caminati breezes The North Sail 8A+ at Cresciano
At Cresciano in Switzerland Michele Caminati has made the first ascent of the boulder problem The North Sail 8A+.
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.
Mayan Smith-Gobat interview
20/12/2012 - Interviews
Mayan Smith-Gobat interview
Interview with New Zealand rock climber Mayan Smith-Gobat. Her ascent of Punks in the Gym at Arapiles, the Salathé Wall on El Capitan, the Nose Speed and more...

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