The news
12/09/2023 - Climbing
Matilda Söderlund nails Niemisis (9a) at Niemisel in Sweden Swedish climber Matilda Söderlund has made the second ascent of Niemisis at Niemisel, which she believes could be graded 9a.
06/09/2023 - Alpinism
Dmitry Golovchenko missing on Gasherbrum IV, Sergey Nilov evacuated by helicopter Russian mountaineer Dmitry Golovchenko is currently reported missing on Gasherbrum IV in Pakistan's Karakorum range. His climbing partner Sergey Nilov descended to Base Camp on his own accord where he was airlifted by helicopter. The pair had been attempting the unclimbed SE Ridge; a search and rescue mission is currently...
31/08/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel From 19-24 August Swiss alpinists Silvan Schüpbach and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of Renaissance, a big new climb on the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland. The pair climbed the 1220m line without the use of bolts.
30/08/2023 - Climbing
James Pearson climbs Parthian Shot without side-runner British rock climber James Pearson has repeated The Parthian Shot E10 6c at Burbage South, UK, without the side-runner in the crack on the right. The Brit, no newcomer to hard and dangerous trad ascents, stated after his repeat 'This one means a lot.'
29/08/2023 - Climbing
Laura Rogora onsights 8c at Cicera in Spain Italian climber Laura Rogora has onsighted her first 8c, 'Ajo crude' at Cicera in Spain. She is only the third woman to succeed in this feat, after Janja Garnbret (2021) and Chaehyun Seo (2022).
28/08/2023 - Alpinism
Dolomites Cima Grande di Lavaredo x 600 for Heini Gütl The other day the 69-year-old mountain guide from Sexten, South Tyrol, Italy Heini Gütl reached the summit of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Dolomites for the 600th time
27/08/2023 - Climbing
Ainhize Belar Barrutia repeats world's first 8c, Wolfgang Güllich's Wallstreet in Frankenjura Spanish climber Ainhize Belar Barrutia has repeated Wallstreet, the world's first 8c established in 1987 by Wolfgang Güllich and located on Krottenseer Turm in the Frankenjura, Germany.
25/08/2023 - Climbing
Pete Whittaker frees Eigerdosis, 8c trad crack at Jøssingfjord in Norway British rock climber Pete Whittaker has made the first free ascent of the second pitch of 'Eigerdosis' on the Profilveggen / Profile wall at Jøssingfjord in Norway. The previous aid climb is now a trad crack that checks in at 8c.
24/08/2023 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert vs Es Pontas, the most difficult deep water solo on Mallorca The video of Austrian climber Jakob Schubert repeating 'Es Pontas', the hardest deep water solo climb water on the island of Mallorca put up by Chris Sharma in 2006.
23/08/2023 - Alpinism
Benjamin Védrines completes fast Aiguille Dibona solo The video of French mountaineer Benjamin Védrines who, starting from the car park, climbed Aiguille Dibona (3130m) via the Madier route in 1 hour and 24 minutes.
21/08/2023 - Alpinism
Nadine Wallner climbs Vertical Jungfrau Marathon in under 17 hours with Simon Wahli On 23 July 2023 Nadine Wallner completed the Vertical Jungfrau Marathon in 16 hours and 20 minutes. The Austrian mountain guide teamed up with her Swiss colleague Simon Wahli for the 3600+ ascent that leads from the Lauterbrunnental to the 4158m summit in the Bernese Oberland, Switzerland.
20/08/2023 - Alpinism
Watch Silvan Schüpbach complete his Wenden Climbing Marathon The video of Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach who on 31/07/2022 with Carlos Molina from Argentina climbed 7 routes in 24 hours on the Wendenstöcke in Switzerland.
18/08/2023 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Olwen (E9), James Pearson repeats Prisoners of the sun (E10) at Rhoscolyn, Wales At Rhoscolyn on the island of Anglesey in North Wales Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated the E9 trad climb 'Olwen' while her husband James Pearson has repeated the E10 'Prisoners of the sun'.
17/08/2023 - Climbing
Connor Herson's staggering Squamish sending spree American climber Connor Herson has made the second ascent of Crack of Destiny (5.14b/8c) and a fast repeat of Cobra Crack (5.14b/8c) at Squamish, Canada. Other repeats include Spirit Quest (5.14d/9a), Tainted Love (5.13d R/8b) and the multipitch Télmexw (5.13c/8a+).
14/08/2023 - Alpinism
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route The report by Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who earlier this summer made quick repeats of two hard climbs at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites: Panaroma (8b+, 500m) on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo and the Spanish route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo (8b+, 550m).
13/08/2023 - Competitions
Jakob Schubert unschlagbar! Boulder & Lead World Champion & qualified for Paris 2024 with Colin Duffy, Tomoa Narasaki Austria’s Jakob Schubert won the men's Combined Boulder & Lead in Bern last night , while America's Colin Duffy took silver and Japan's Tomoa Narasaki bronze. All three have qualified for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games
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