963 News found

I Tre Giganti - the Three Giants - the route climbed by Ermanno Salvaterra, Matteo "Will" Bertolotti, Paolo Grisa and Chicca Boselli up the NE Face of Crozzon di Brenta (3118m, Brenta Dolomites. The story by Ermanno Salvaterra.

Two new routes have been established up the NW Face of Hochgasser in Austria: Ben Gassa and Wurzer Rinne.

On 20/11/2012 British alpinists Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey made the first ascent of Eyes Wide Shut (900m, ED1, M6, AO, UIAA IV+) up the NE Face of Mont Rouge di Greuvetta (Mont Blanc massif).

Corvara-based mountain guide Francesco Tremolada has sent us this short update about the early start to off-piste skiing, freeride and ski mountaineering in the Dolomites.

On 23/11/2012 Vivian Bruchez and Kilian Jornet Burgada made the first ski descent of the Migot Spur located on Aiguille de Chardonnet in the Mont Blanc massif.

In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio Eksen" (200m, 7c max, 7a+ obligatory) in the Cimbar Valley.

On the North Face of Croz del Rifugio (Brenta Dolomites) Italian mountain guide Franco Nicolini has put up two new routes and reequipped the belays of his Via Elena (1988) as well as Via Bregtie, first climbed in 1963 by Cesare Maestri and Ernesto Carafoli.

Interview by Ellade Ossola with Samuel Anthamatten, the Swiss freerider and alpinist, on the eve of the Evolution Vertical event organized by New Rock and scheduled to take place in Lugano, Switzerland on Friday 9 November.

In September 2012 Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl made the first free ascent of Fior di Vite (800m, 90°, M5, 7a) up Arwa Spire (6193m), India, the route established by Schäli himself along with Hasler and Harvey in 2002.

On 6/10/2012 Ines Papert made the first free ascent of Schwarze Madonna (8a+, 180m) on Untersberg in Germany.

Interview with Sweden's Andreas Fransson who on 19/09/2012 made the first ski descent of the Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia.

A new rock climb at Tuscany's beautiful Capo d'Uomo (Argentario): Spigolo Bonatti (6a, 240m), established and introduced by the mountain guide Eraldo Meraldi.

Last summer Maurizio Giordani, Luciano Ferrari and Nancy Paoletto made the first ascent of Via dei 6 Pilastri (940m, 6b+) up the South Face of Piz dell'Anticima Serauta (Marmolada, Dolomites)

The situation on Manaslu after the avalanche disaster, sent to us by the Mountain Kingdom expedition

Alberto Magliano, one of the climbers who died in the terrible avalanche on Manaslu, in the words of climbing partner Michele Comi.

Errata: contrary to what we published previously, Via Leila on Cima Cason de Formin (Croda da Lago, Dolomites) is not a new route but a lower variation (5 pitches) to Via Leber Kenedi first ascended in 1990 by Federico Michielli and Michele Da Pozzo.