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Piolet d'or Asia won by Okada and Katsutake. Hasegawa wins lifetime achievement award.
09/11/2010 - Alpinism
Piolet d'or Asia won by Okada and Katsutake. Hasegawa wins lifetime achievement award.
On 22/10/2010 in Korea's capital Seoul the Japanese alpinists Yasushi Okada and Katsutake Yokoyama won the fifth edition of the Piolet d'or Asia, while the lifetime achievement award went to their fellow countryman Tsuneo Hasegawa.
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
26/10/2010 - Alpinism
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
From 20 - 23 September 2010 Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first free ascent of the John Harlin Direttissima up the North Face of the Eiger. The duo exited via the Heckmair route and graded the undertaking Mixed M8-/rock 7a; E5; redpoint, 1800m.
Vivian Quarry, slate climbing in North Wales
26/10/2010 - Climbing
Vivian Quarry, slate climbing in North Wales
Vivian Quarry is perhaps the most popular slate crag in Wales due to its proximity to Llanberis and the vast selection of routes of all shapes and sizes.
Sulamar North Face first ascent by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden
04/10/2010 - Alpinism
Sulamar North Face first ascent by Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden
Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden have carried out the first ascent of the North Face of Sulamar, China
Fredrik Ericsson, fatal accident on K2
09/08/2010 - Alpinism
Fredrik Ericsson, fatal accident on K2
On 6 August Fredrik Ericsson fell to his death from the Bottleneck on K2. The Swedish alpinist was climbing with Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner from Austria who descended safely to Base Camp. Kaltenbrunner's husband Ralf Dujmovit provides the details about the accident.
Mountain stories: Courmayeur, August 2010
02/08/2010 - Events
Mountain stories: Courmayeur, August 2010
4 evenings and 4 great mountaineering stories as told by Valery Babanov, Hans Kammerlander, Silvio Mondinelli and Stevie Haston. The evenings will be introduced by Vinicio Stefanello, editor of PlanetMountain.com.
Venere Peak tough acclimatisation for Barmasse, Bernasconi and Panzeri prior to the North Face of Gasherbrum I
13/07/2010 - Alpinism
Venere Peak tough acclimatisation for Barmasse, Bernasconi and Panzeri prior to the North Face of Gasherbrum I
Hervé Barmasse, Daniele Bernasconi and Mario Panzeri have carried out the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed Venere Peak (6300m), China. A difficult acclimatisation before the next adventure, the virgin North Face of Gasherbrum 1.
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
16/06/2010 - Climbing
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.
Himalayan helicopter rescues
25/05/2010 - Alpinism
Himalayan helicopter rescues
Interview with Gerold Biner, operations manager of Air Zermatt, after the recent helicopter rescue missions in the Himalaya.
Annapurna, successful and failed rescues
30/04/2010 - Alpinism
Annapurna, successful and failed rescues
Three alpinists weere airlifted to safety by helicopter from an altitude of 6950m on Annapurna yesterday, while Spanish mountaineer Tolo Calafat passed away.
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
23/04/2010 - Alpinism
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
At the start of April the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn reached the West summit of Monte Sarmiento (2145m) via a new route up the North Face.
  • CORRECTION 05/2010: the north face had already been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition in 1986
  • Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
    30/03/2010 - Alpinism
    Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
    On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the South Face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The exclusive interview with Hervé Barmasse.
    Takargo first ascent by Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb
    15/03/2010 - Alpinism
    Takargo first ascent by Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb
    Americans Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb have made the first ascent of Takargo (6771 meters) via its East Face in Nepal.
    Norway ice climbing trip for Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner
    12/03/2010 - Alpinism
    Norway ice climbing trip for Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner
    Ice climbing to ice climbing around the Lyngen Fjord in Norway by Albert Leichtfreid from Austria.
    Iker Pou climbing interview
    26/02/2010 - Interviews
    Iker Pou climbing interview
    Iker Pou from Spain is one of the world's most talented rock climbers, with cutting-edge climbs spanning from 9a+ at the crag to 8a at 6000 meters. In this interview he shares his climbing thoughts after his repeat of Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef.

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