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Stefano Ragazzo makes climbing history with first Eternal Flame rope solo
02/08/2024 - Alpinism
Stefano Ragazzo makes climbing history with first Eternal Flame rope solo
Italian alpinist Stefano Ragazzo has made the first rope-solo ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless tower (6251m) in the Trango tower group in Pakistan. The most famous big wall at altitude was established in 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora.
First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
25/07/2024 - Alpinism
First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Climbing alpine style from 1-6 July 2024, Czech mountaineers Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák completed the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (7,453m) in the Karakoram, Pakistan. Hák reports about the climb up the peak famed for having been the highest unclimbed mountain in the world.
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/07/2024 - Alpinism
Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have made the first ascent of 'Puro Floro' on the SE Face of Nevado Copa (6190) in Peru.
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
02/07/2024 - Alpinism
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.
Stop the Genocide banner hung on El Capitan in protest against Gaza war
19/06/2024 - Climbing
Stop the Genocide banner hung on El Capitan in protest against Gaza war
On Monday 17 June a team of climbers hung a banner on El Capitan in Yosemite reading 'Stop the Genocide', to raise awareness of the conflict and put pressure on Israel to end the war in Gaza.
Electric Avenue on Mont Blanc's Grand Gendarme des Cosmiques
12/06/2024 - Climbing
Electric Avenue on Mont Blanc's Grand Gendarme des Cosmiques
In August 2022 the Bulgarian climbers Emiliyan Kolevski and Victor Varoshkin made the first ascent of 'Electric Avenue' on Grand Gendarme on the Arête des Cosmiques on Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc, France. This is only the third route up the famous granite monolith after 'Digital Crack' and 'Arête Cosmiques',...
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
11/06/2024 - Climbing
Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
Vangelis Galanis has made a rope solo first ascent of a new multipitch rock climb on Kapelo Peak in Meteora, Greece. The route is dedicated to Dietrich Hasse, the German climber who pioneered rock climbing in the conglomerate area in the late 1970's. Galanis reports.
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro and Ross Hewitt have made the first ski descent of 'The Missing Link', joining Poire, Major and Sentinelle on Mont Blanc’s Brenva Face. Hewitt reports about this huge undertaking on one of the wildest faces in the Alps.
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's tower, USA
British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...
Great Trango Tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison
Great Trango tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison
Alpinists Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger and Jim Morrison have made the first ski descent of Great Trango tower (6286m) in Pakistan, skiing a steep, exposed and weaving line down the mountain's west face.
New multi-pitch up Punta Emma on Rosengarten, Dolomites
22/04/2024 - Alpinism
New multi-pitch up Punta Emma on Rosengarten, Dolomites
The report by Luca Giupponi who in 2023 with Rolando Larcher made the ground-up first ascent of the 'Giupponi-Larcher' up Punta Emma on Rosengarten / Catinaccio, Dolomites.
Tokyo 2021, new multipitch on Vajolet Towers in the Dolomites
17/04/2024 - Alpinism
Tokyo 2021, new multipitch on Vajolet Towers in the Dolomites
Luca Giupponi report about 'Tokyo 2021' established on Torre Est in the Vajolet Towers, Rosengarten / Catinaccio, Dolomites. First ascended with Marco Fiorentini and Dino Vanzetta, the route is dedicated to Alex Toniolli.
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
02/04/2024 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
Interview with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll after the first traverse of the four main peaks of the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia, Chile. The Belgian alpinist climbed Torre Sur, Torre Central, Torre Norte and La Peineta solo from 23 - 26 February 2024 and called the enchainment 'Travesía Doble M'.
Jacopo Larcher & The Traditionalist: trad climbing in Yosemite Valley
15/03/2024 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher & The Traditionalist: trad climbing in Yosemite Valley
The first episode of The Traditionalist a new 3-part film series following Jacopo Larcher, as he explores hard trad climbing around the world.
Arma de doble filo added to La Espada (Paine, Patagonia) by Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez
15/03/2024 - Alpinism
Arma de doble filo added to La Espada (Paine, Patagonia) by Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez
On 24 and 25 February 2024 Sebastian Pelletti and Hernan Rodriguez made the first ascent of 'Arma de doble filo' (5.11+, A1, 800m) on the East face of La Espada in the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia.