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Rare repeat of Grand Diedre Desplomando on Trango Tower, the Nameless Tower of the Karakorum
10/09/2024 - Alpinism
Rare repeat of Grand Diedre Desplomando on Trango tower, the Nameless tower of the Karakorum
Earlier this summer an international team comprised of Martin Krasňanský, Michal Mikušinec and Tomáš Buček from Slovakia and František Bulička from the Czech Republic made a rare repeat of 'Grand Diedre Desplomando' on Trango tower, aka Nameless tower, Karakorum, Pakistan. The 1100m big wall was first ascended in 1987 by...
Nasim Eshqi & Sina Heidari climb to new heights for human rights awareness
29/08/2024 - Alpinism
Nasim Eshqi & Sina Heidari climb to new heights for human rights awareness
Iranian climber Nasim Eshqi and her parter Sina Heidari have established 'Rise up for human rights' on Le Minaret in the Mont Blanc massif with Michel Piola and 'Woman, Life, Freedom' on Catinaccio in the Dolomites with Gianni Trepin and Arianna Capra. The climbs form part of their 'When Mountains...
Sergey Nilov perishes on Gasherbrum IV, Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov safe in Skardu
22/08/2024 - Alpinism
Sergey Nilov perishes on Gasherbrum IV, Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov safe in Skardu
Russian mountaineers Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov are safely in Skardu. The pair was transported there by Pakistani military helicopter following the serac collapse on Gasherbrum IV which resulted in the death of Sergey Nilov.
Sergey Nilov missing on Gasherbrum IV, Mikhail & Sergei Mironov descending after serac collapse
19/08/2024 - Alpinism
Sergey Nilov missing on Gasherbrum IV, Mikhail & Sergei Mironov descending after serac collapse
  • Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov are descending to 6100m where they will be rescued by Pakistani military helicopters
  • Russian mountaineer Sergey Nilov is reported missing on Gasherbrum IV after a serac collapsed. Climbing partners Mikhail Mironov and Sergei Mironov are injured and awaiting evacuation.
  • Stefano Ragazzo makes climbing history with first Eternal Flame rope solo
    02/08/2024 - Alpinism
    Stefano Ragazzo makes climbing history with first Eternal Flame rope solo
    Italian alpinist Stefano Ragazzo has made the first rope-solo ascent of Eternal Flame on Nameless tower (6251m) in the Trango tower group in Pakistan. The most famous big wall at altitude was established in 1989 by Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler and Milan Sykora.
    First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
    25/07/2024 - Alpinism
    First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
    Climbing alpine style from 1-6 July 2024, Czech mountaineers Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák completed the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (7,453m) in the Karakoram, Pakistan. Hák reports about the climb up the peak famed for having been the highest unclimbed mountain in the world.
    Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
    18/07/2024 - Alpinism
    Puro Floro added to Nevado Copa in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
    Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have made the first ascent of 'Puro Floro' on the SE Face of Nevado Copa (6190) in Peru.
    Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
    03/07/2024 - Climbing
    Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
    Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.
    Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
    02/07/2024 - Alpinism
    Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru
    Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.
    Stop the Genocide banner hung on El Capitan in protest against Gaza war
    19/06/2024 - Climbing
    Stop the Genocide banner hung on El Capitan in protest against Gaza war
    On Monday 17 June a team of climbers hung a banner on El Capitan in Yosemite reading 'Stop the Genocide', to raise awareness of the conflict and put pressure on Israel to end the war in Gaza.
    Electric Avenue on Mont Blanc's Grand Gendarme des Cosmiques
    12/06/2024 - Climbing
    Electric Avenue on Mont Blanc's Grand Gendarme des Cosmiques
    In August 2022 the Bulgarian climbers Emiliyan Kolevski and Victor Varoshkin made the first ascent of 'Electric Avenue' on Grand Gendarme on the Arête des Cosmiques on Aiguille du Midi, Mont Blanc, France. This is only the third route up the famous granite monolith after 'Digital Crack' and 'Arête Cosmiques',...
    Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
    11/06/2024 - Climbing
    Meteora: new route on Kapelo Peak dedicated to Dietrich Hasse
    Vangelis Galanis has made a rope solo first ascent of a new multipitch rock climb on Kapelo Peak in Meteora, Greece. The route is dedicated to Dietrich Hasse, the German climber who pioneered rock climbing in the conglomerate area in the late 1970's. Galanis reports.
    Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
    Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt
    Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro and Ross Hewitt have made the first ski descent of 'The Missing Link', joining Poire, Major and Sentinelle on Mont Blanc’s Brenva Face. Hewitt reports about this huge undertaking on one of the wildest faces in the Alps.
    Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
    29/05/2024 - Climbing
    Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's tower, USA
    British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...
    Great Trango Tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison
    Great Trango tower first ski descent by Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger, Jim Morrison
    Alpinists Chantel Astorga, Christina Lustenberger and Jim Morrison have made the first ski descent of Great Trango tower (6286m) in Pakistan, skiing a steep, exposed and weaving line down the mountain's west face.
    New multi-pitch up Punta Emma on Rosengarten, Dolomites
    22/04/2024 - Alpinism
    New multi-pitch up Punta Emma on Rosengarten, Dolomites
    The report by Luca Giupponi who in 2023 with Rolando Larcher made the ground-up first ascent of the 'Giupponi-Larcher' up Punta Emma on Rosengarten / Catinaccio, Dolomites.

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