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Yet another new mixed climb above Sappada, Italy
03/02/2025 - Alpinism
Yet another new mixed climb above Sappada, Italy
On 22 January 2025, in Valle di Enghe above Sappada in NE Italy, the two InMont mountain guides Gianni Dorigo and Samuel Straulino established the new mixed climb 'L’Orco non va mai in vacanza' (The Ogre Never Goes on Holiday). Below is Dorigo’s report.
Fox Jaw Cirque in Greenland, Italians traverse Baby Molar, Molar & Incisor, climb Cavity Ridge
31/01/2025 - Alpinism
Fox Jaw Cirque in Greenland, Italians traverse Baby Molar, Molar & Incisor, climb Cavity Ridge
Last August, the Italians Daniele Bonzi, Francesco Fumagalli and Thomas Triboli travelled to the Fox Jaw Cirque in East Greenland, where they completed the first traverse of the first three towers: Baby Molar, Molar, and Incisor. Named 'Trident VI Orobica', the route involves 1,000 metres of climbing over 21 pitches,...
First ski descent of East Face of Mt Hamilton in New Zealand
First ski descent of East Face of Mt Hamilton in New Zealand
In November 2024 Clémence Cadario, Joe Collinson, George Millets, Jordan Raymond and Romain Sacchettini completed the first descent of the East Face of Mt Hamilton in New Zealand. Collinson provides the details.
Surprising new mixed climb above Sappada, Italy
29/01/2025 - Alpinism
Surprising new mixed climb above Sappada, Italy
In Valle di Enghe, close to Sappada in NE Italy, Christian Casanova, Marco Ronchi and Lorenzo Zanella have established the mixed climb 'I 3 Orchi'. Casanova reports.
'Eternal Flauta' added to El Mochito in Patagonia by Mati Korten, Ignacio Mulero
22/01/2025 - Climbing
'Eternal Flauta' added to El Mochito in Patagonia by Mati Korten, Ignacio Mulero
In December 2024 Matías Korten and Ignacio Mulero established 'Eternal Flauta' (220m, 7a+) on the East face of El Mochito in the Cerro Torre group in Patagonia. Mulero reports
New climb on Monte Monaco in Sicily by Paweł Zieliński
02/12/2024 - Climbing
New climb on Monte Monaco in Sicily by Paweł Zieliński
Paweł Zieliński has made the first ascent of 'Forza di Polacco', the 170m multipitch he established rope solo on Monte Monaco next to San Vito Lo Capo in Sicily, Italy.
It goes again, boys! Barbara Zangerl interview after Freerider flash on El Cap
25/11/2024 - Interviews
It goes again, boys! Barbara Zangerl interview after Freerider flash on El Cap
Interview with Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl after her ground-breaking, historic flash ascent of 'Freerider' on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Lara Neumeier, Nemuel Feurle repeat El Niño via Pineapple Express on El Capitan in Yosemite
13/11/2024 - Climbing
Lara Neumeier, Nemuel Feurle repeat El Niño via Pineapple Express on El Capitan in Yosemite
Lara Neumeier from Germany and Nemuel Feurle from Austria have repeated ‘El Niño – Pineapple Express’ (800m, 5.13c) on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.
Ondrej Húserka perishes on Langtang Lirung in Nepal
04/11/2024 - Alpinism
Ondrej Húserka perishes on Langtang Lirung in Nepal
Slovakian mountaineer Ondrej Huserka died last week while descending Langtang Lirung in Nepal, shortly after having made the first ascent of the huge East Face with Marek Holeček. Born in 1990, he was widely regarded as one of the leading young alpinists, not only from Slovakia.
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
31/10/2024 - Alpinism
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
The Piolets d'Or 2024 will be awarded to the following climbs: 'The Secret Line' on the north face of Tirich Mir in Pakistan by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima, 'Round Trip Ticket' on the north face of Jannu in Nepal by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau, and 'Tomorrow...
Slovenian female expedition makes first ascent of Lalung I and three other climbs in Indian Himalayas
25/10/2024 - Alpinism
Slovenian female expedition makes first ascent of Lalung I and three other climbs in Indian Himalayas
From 22 August to 26 September a small team of four Slovenian women comprised of Ana Baumgartner, Urša Kešar, Anja Petek and Patricija Verdev climbed four new routes in the Indian Himalaya. These include the alpine style first ascent of the previously unclimbed Lalung I (6,243m).
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces
16/09/2024 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces "big list" of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the 'big list' of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2023. The honoured ascents will receive the Piolets d'Or 2024 award during the celebration at San Martino di Castrozza (Italy) from 8 - 11 December 2024.
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
30/08/2024 - Alpinism
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.
New climb on Nevado Cashan Oeste in Peru by Mike Bowyer, Tom Schindfessel
01/08/2024 - Alpinism
New climb on Nevado Cashan Oeste in Peru by Mike Bowyer, Tom Schindfessel
On 12 July 2024 Mike Bowyer and Tom Schindfessel made the first ascent of 'La Suerte viene la suerte se va' on Nevado Cashan West (5732m) in Peru.
First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
25/07/2024 - Alpinism
First ascent of Muchu Chhish in Karakoram by Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Climbing alpine style from 1-6 July 2024, Czech mountaineers Jaroslav Bansky, Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák completed the first ascent of Muchu Chhish (7,453m) in the Karakoram, Pakistan. Hák reports about the climb up the peak famed for having been the highest unclimbed mountain in the world.
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.

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