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Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen Tower, while 'Super Thuraya' (6c, 500m) climbs the southwest pillar...
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
26/09/2023 - Alpinism
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
Marek Radovský reports about a climbing expedition with Ďuri Švingál to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru from 15/07/2023 to 15/08/2023. In the Taulliraju massif the Slovakian mountaineers managed to establish 'The Line under the sky' (6b M6+ 1100m) on a hitherto unclimbed mountain they have called Marva Peak (5141m).
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from 14 to 16 November
Ranrapalca NW Face climbed in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/09/2023 - Alpinism
Ranrapalca NW Face climbed in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
In August 2023 the virgin NW Face of Ranrapalca in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru was been climbed alpine style by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito via their 'Ya Pe' Cholo' (6b/80°/1,200m).
Huge Latok Thumb in Karakorum first ascended by Miquel Mas, Marc Subirana
05/09/2023 - Alpinism
Huge Latok Thumb in Karakorum first ascended by Miquel Mas, Marc Subirana
Spanish mountaineers Miquel Mas and Marc Subirana have climbed a new route on Southwest Face of Latok II in Pakistan's Karakorum. The pair summited the distinctive tower they have now called Latok Thumb (6380m) via their 'Atracció Instintiva' (1100m, 7a run out, A2+, M5). Success comes about after a previous...
Elios & Super Elios added to Tour de Jorasses by Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection
15/08/2023 - Alpinism
Elios & Super Elios added to Tour de Jorasses by Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection
Italian mountaineers Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi and Tommaso Vection have made the first ascent of Super Elios on Tour de Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif. Vidoni reports.
Florian Riegler frees his Stile di vita at Nago, Italy
09/06/2023 - Climbing
Florian Riegler frees his Stile di vita at Nago, Italy
The report by Florian Riegler from the South Tyrol, Italy, who at Nago close to Arco freed his multi-pitch sport climb Stile di vita (8c, 100m).
Citadel NW Face climbed in Kichatna Spires of Alaska by Joseph Hobby, Zach Lovell
01/05/2023 - Alpinism
Citadel NW Face climbed in Kichatna Spires of Alaska by Joseph Hobby, Zach Lovell
Climbing in the Kichatna Spires of Alaska, on 19 April 2023 American Mountain Guides Joseph Hobby (34) and Zach Lovell (30) made what is believed to be the first ascent of the stunning NW Face of Citadel via their 'Borealis Face' (2,000ft, 85° ice/snow). A day later they established 'Superfly...
Brezno pod Velbom icefall repeated inside Monte Canin by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai, Marco Toldo
27/04/2023 - Alpinism
Brezno pod Velbom icefall repeated inside Monte Canin by Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai, Marco Toldo
Nicola Bertoldo, Diego Dellai and Marco Toldo belonging to the Roccia 4 Gatti di Arsiero mountaineering club have climbed the enormous icefall located inside the Brezno pod Velbom cave, at an altitude of 2050m on the Slovenian side of Monte Canin. Dellai reports of the repeat of what is considered...
On Aiguille des Pèlerins Tom Livingstone & Symon Welfringer establish La Croisade
29/03/2023 - Alpinism
On Aiguille des Pèlerins Tom Livingstone & Symon Welfringer establish La Croisade
Tom Livingstone & Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of 'La Croisade', a mixed climb that after sharing the start of 'Beyond Good and Evil' and 'Les Flammes de l’enfer', breaches the obvious roof on the north face of Aiguille des Pélerins (3318m) in the Mont Blanc massif. Welfringer...
Mount Niflheim SW Couloir in Canada skied by Christina Lustenberger, Andrew McNab
Mount Niflheim SW Couloir in Canada skied by Christina Lustenberger, Andrew McNab
On 8 March 2023 Christina Lusti Lustenberger and Andrew McNab made what is likely to be the first ski descent of the striking SW Couloir of Mount Niflheim in British Colombia, Canada.
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
08/03/2023 - Alpinism
First ascent of Oqatssut Wall in Greenland by Paweł Hałdaś, Marcin Tomaszewski
Marcin Tomaszewski reports about the first ascent of FRAM, a technical 700m climb on Oqatssut Wall on the West coast of Greenland established from 10 - 24 February 2023 with Paweł Hałdaś. This is the first route on the mountain and the first big wall climbed in Greenland in winter.
Big new mixed climb on Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses) by Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection, Giuseppe Vidoni
02/02/2023 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses) by Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection, Giuseppe Vidoni
On 28 January 2023 Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection and Giuseppe Vidoni made the first ascent of the new mixed climb 'Happy Birthday' (1000m, AI4, M6 , ED) on the South Face of Aiguille de l'Évêque (Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif).
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
25/01/2023 - Alpinism
Torres del Paine South African Route repeated team-free by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen, Tyler Karow
The South African Route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine (Torres del Paine, Patagonia, Chile) was repeated team-free over a 10-day period in early January 2023 by Imanol Amundarain, Cedar Christensen and Tyler Karow. Christensen provides the details in this interview.
Northern Twilight added to Rånkeipen in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Juho Knuuttila
19/01/2023 - Alpinism
Northern Twilight added to Rånkeipen in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Juho Knuuttila
Just a few days after having established two committing mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen in Norway, on 16 January 2023 Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila teamed up with Joda Dolmans from Sweden to make the first ascent of 'Northern Twilight' (M7, WI6) on the same face. 22-year-old Dolmans...
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
13/01/2023 - Interviews
Colin Haley and his Fitz Roy Supercanaleta winter solo
Interview with Chamonix-based alpinist Colin Haley who in September 2022 completed the first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta route on Fitz Roy in Patagonia.

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