356 News found
02/07/2024 - Alpinism
Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál climb new routes in Peru Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.
01/07/2024 - Alpinism
The fifth Lecco Spider on the summit of Cerro Torre in 1974 From the MOdiSCA archive an iconic photo taken by the Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition documenting the first ascent of the west face of Cerro Torre in Patagonia in 1974: the fifth Lecco Spider on the mountain's summit, with Casimiro Ferrari, Mario Conti, Pino Negri and Daniele Chiappa. Text by...
10/06/2024 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Diagonal of Mont Blanc's Brenva Face skied by Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro, Ross Hewitt Nico Borgeot, Gaspard Buro and Ross Hewitt have made the first ski descent of 'The Missing Link', joining Poire, Major and Sentinelle on Mont Blanc’s Brenva Face. Hewitt reports about this huge undertaking on one of the wildest faces in the Alps.
29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70° ice/snow) is only the second ascent of the mountain. Following...
02/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb on Mt. Dickey in Alaska’s Ruth Gorge by Tom Livingstone, Gašper Pintar From 14-17 April 2024 Britain's Tom Livingstone and Slovenia's Gašper Pintar made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'The Great Wall' on the South Face of Mt. Dickey (2909m) in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska.
24/04/2024 - Alpinism
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours In November 2023 mountain guides Genís Zapater Bargués and Alastair Mcdowell completed the Aoraki - Mt Cook Traverse in New Zealand in just over a day. Also referred to as the Grand Traverse and involving 55km, 4,500m+ elevation gain across rock, snow, and ice, this has been described as 'the...
12/04/2024 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Probable first ski descent on Piz de Puez, Dolomites On 25/03/2024 Franz Anstein, Federico Maremonti and Andreas Tonelli skied what is likely to be a new line on Piz de Puez in the Dolomites, Italy. Called 'Canal sëura l uët', this couloir provides difficulties in the region of 5.1 E4, as Anstein explains in his report.
02/04/2024 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse Interview with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll after the first traverse of the four main peaks of the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia, Chile. The Belgian alpinist climbed Torre Sur, Torre Central, Torre Norte and La Peineta solo from 23 - 26 February 2024 and called the enchainment 'Travesía Doble M'.
08/03/2024 - Climbing
New climb on El Mocho in Patagonia by Nico Lewin, Ignacio Mulero, Leon Riveros Ignacio Mulero, Leon Teizan Riveros Molina and Nico Lewin have made the first ascent of 'Arigato Chalten' (7c, 450m) on the north face of El Mocho in the Cerro Torre massif in Patagonia.
20/02/2024 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Sir Sandford South Couloir first ski descent in Canada by Mark Herbison, Josh Lavigne, Christina Lustenberger On 14 February 2024 Mark Herbison, Josh Lavigne and Christina Lustenberger made the first ski descent of the South Couloir of Mount Sir Sandford (3519m), the highest peak in the Selkirk Mountains, British Columbia, Canada. Lustenberger reports.
15/02/2024 - Alpinism
Full Pakke established at Bodø in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Kristian Vindvik Joda Dolmans and Kristian Vindvik have made the first ascent of 'Full Pakke' (M5, WI6, R) at Bodø in northern Norway. Dolmans reports about the new mixed outing he describes as 'one of the best new winter routes that I’ve climbed.'
15/01/2024 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
New ski descent on Capucin du Requin in Mont Blanc massif by Laurent Bibollet, Sam Favret, Julien Herry On 14/01/2024 Laurent Bibollet, Sam Favret, Julien Herry made what is likely to be the first ski descent of the obvious gully on Capucin du Requin above the Vallée Blanche in the Mont Blanc massif.
12/01/2024 - Alpinism
Il Cigno Nero, new mixed climb on Cima Falkner in Brenta Dolomites Enrico Lovato reports about the first ascent of 'Il Cigno Nero' (320m, 5+, M7, 40°) established on the north-east face of Cima Falkner in the Brenta Dolomites with Federico Asciolla on 5 January 2024.
12/12/2023 - Alpinism
Demanding Dolomites climb by Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth, Alex Walpoth From 4 to 7 October 2023 Martin Dejori, Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth made the first ascent of 'Oltre il Diau' on the southwest face of Antelao (Dolomites). Walpoth reports.
21/11/2023 - Alpinism
Salbit Trilogy speed record set by Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli Swiss alpinists Yannick Glatthard and Simon Wahli have climbed the Salbitschijen west, south and east ridge in an unprecedented record time of 5 hours and 53 minutes. The previous best known time was set in July 2023 in Dani Arnold who climbed the three ridges solo in 9 hours and...
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