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Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
29/03/2024 - Alpinism
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
Austrian alpinist Barbara Vigl reports about a repeat of the 'Gervasutti-Gagliardone' on the East Face of the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif, carried out in July 2023 by Vigl with Anna Truntschnig and Anna Zechling. Apart from possibly being the first all-female ascent of this route, the repeat underscores the...
Martin Feistl finds his Daily Dose of Luck on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, Austria
12/03/2024 - Alpinism
Martin Feistl finds his Daily Dose of Luck on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, Austria
Without a rope, alone, into the unknown. Martin Feistl reports about the solo first ascent of the mixed climb 'Daily Dose of Luck' (400m, WI 5, M4) established on 24 January 2024 on Hammerspitze in Pinnistal, a small side valley of the Stubaital in Austria.
New ice climbs in Val Travenanzes, Dolomites
06/03/2024 - Alpinism
New ice climbs in Val Travenanzes, Dolomites
Sarah Haase reports about three possible new ice climbs located at the entrance to Val Travenanzes in the Dolomites, ascended on 6 February 2024 with Diana Calabuig and Santiago Padros.
New Dent du Requin descent by Yannick Boissenot, Julien Herry, Zian Perrot-Couttet
New Dent du Requin descent by Yannick Boissenot, Julien Herry, Zian Perrot-Couttet
French mountaineers Yannick Boissenot, Julien Herry and Zian Perrot-Couttet have made a new ski and snowboard descent in the Mont Blanc massif, 'L'aileron du Requin' on Dent du Requin.
Fay Manners and Tom Lafaille ski big new line on Aiguille d’Argentiere
Fay Manners and Tom Lafaille ski big new line on Aiguille d’Argentiere
On 17 February Fay Manners and Tom Lafaille made the first ski descent of the Arête Charlet Straton on Aiguille d’Argentiere in the Mont Blanc Massif. Manners reports about the 5.4 line they have called 'Stratonspherique'.
Sir Sandford South Couloir first ski descent in Canada by Mark Herbison, Josh Lavigne, Christina Lustenberger
Sir Sandford South couloir first ski descent in Canada by Mark Herbison, Josh Lavigne, Christina Lustenberger
On 14 February 2024 Mark Herbison, Josh Lavigne and Christina Lustenberger made the first ski descent of the South couloir of Mount Sir Sandford (3519m), the highest peak in the Selkirk Mountains, British Columbia, Canada. Lustenberger reports.
Full Pakke established at Bodø in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Kristian Vindvik
15/02/2024 - Alpinism
Full Pakke established at Bodø in Norway by Joda Dolmans, Kristian Vindvik
Joda Dolmans and Kristian Vindvik have made the first ascent of 'Full Pakke' (M5, WI6, R) at Bodø in northern Norway. Dolmans reports about the new mixed outing he describes as 'one of the best new winter routes that I’ve climbed.'
New mixed climb added to Mont Noire de Peuterey by Richard Tiraboschi, Giuseppe Vidoni
09/02/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb added to Mont Noire de Peuterey by Richard Tiraboschi, Giuseppe Vidoni
On 02/05/2024 Italian alpinists Richard Tiraboschi and Giuseppe Vidoni made the first ascent of 'couloir Noire' (400m, AI4, M5) on Mont Noire de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif. Vidoni reports.
New Matterhorn route established by Cazzanelli, Farina, Perruquet, Stradelli
08/02/2024 - Alpinism
New Matterhorn route established by Cazzanelli, Farina, Perruquet, Stradelli
On 06/02/2024 Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Marco Farina and Stefano Stradelli established a new route on the South Face of the Matterhorn (4,478m).
Remote icefall climbed on Becca des Arbiére in Italy's Aosta valley
05/02/2024 - Alpinism
Remote icefall climbed on Becca des Arbiére in Italy's Aosta valley
On 01/27/2024 François Cazzanelli, Stefano Stradelli and Giuseppe Vidoni made the first ascent of 'La Cascata dell'Arbiére' (100m, WI4) on Becca des Arbiére in the Saint-Barthélemy valley in Valle d'Aosta.
New ski descent on Capucin du Requin in Mont Blanc massif by Laurent Bibollet, Sam Favret, Julien Herry
New ski descent on Capucin du Requin in Mont Blanc massif by Laurent Bibollet, Sam Favret, Julien Herry
On 14/01/2024 Laurent Bibollet, Sam Favret, Julien Herry made what is likely to be the first ski descent of the obvious gully on Capucin du Requin above the Vallée Blanche in the Mont Blanc massif.
Cholatse West Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
13/12/2023 - Alpinism
Cholatse West Face climbed by Radoslav Groh, Zdeněk Hák
Climbing alpine style from 2-3 November 2023, Czech mountaineers Radoslav Groh and Zdeněk Hák made the first ascent of 'Just one solution!'(ED WI4+, M5, 1200m) up the West Face of Cholatse (6440m) in Nepal. Hák reports about the route dedicated to the memory of Jan Ros.
Flat Top north face climbed in India's Kishtwar by Hugo Béguin, Matthias Gribi, Nathan Monard
06/11/2023 - Alpinism
Flat Top north face climbed in India's Kishtwar by Hugo Béguin, Matthias Gribi, Nathan Monard
Swiss mountaineers Hugo Béguin, Matthias Gribi and Nathan Alexandre Monard have made the first ascent of the unclimbed north face of Flat Top (6057m) in the Kishtwar region of India. Called 'Tomorrow is another day', the 1400m line was climbed alpine style from 3 - 7 October and breaches difficulties...
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
26/09/2023 - Alpinism
Marva Peak in Peru climbed by Marek Radovský, Ďuri Švingál
Marek Radovský reports about a climbing expedition with Ďuri Švingál to the Cordillera Blanca in Peru from 15/07/2023 to 15/08/2023. In the Taulliraju massif the Slovakian mountaineers managed to establish 'The Line under the sky' (6b M6+ 1100m) on a hitherto unclimbed mountain they have called Marva Peak (5141m).
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from 14 to 16 November
Salbitschijen Winter trilogy completed by Lukas Hinterberger, Michael Wohlleben
01/06/2023 - Alpinism
Salbitschijen Winter trilogy completed by Lukas Hinterberger, Michael Wohlleben
From 15 to 16 February 2023 German alpinists Lukas Hinterberger and Michael Wohlleben completed what is likely to be the first winter ascent of the Salbitschijen trilogy, ie the famous Salbit West Ridge, South Ridge and East Ridge in Switzerland.