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Difficult hours for Poles on Broad Peak first winter ascent
06/03/2013 - Alpinism
Difficult hours for Poles on Broad Peak first winter ascent
The situation is currently extremely difficult for the Polish mountaineers who carried out the first winter ascent of Broad Peak yesterday: while Artur Malek and Adam Bielecki spent the night at Camp IV, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski bivied at the col at 7900m.
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
05/03/2013 - Alpinism
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
On 5 March 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek made the historic first winter of Broad Peak. The Polish mountaineers are members of an expedition led by the living monument to alpinism Krzysztof Wielicki. With this latest success a staggering 9 first winter ascents of the...
Torre Egger West Face, first ascent by Della Bordella and Schiera
04/03/2013 - Alpinism
Torre Egger West Face, first ascent by Della Bordella and Schiera
On Saturday 2 March 2013, Matteo della Bordella and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of a new route which, for the first time ever, breaches the West Face of Torre Egger (Cerro Torre massif, Patagonia).
Arco bids for World Youth Climbing Championships 2015
13/02/2013 - Competitions
Arco bids for World Youth Climbing Championships 2015
On 8 March in Shanghai (China) Arco will present its candidature to host the 2015 World Youth Climbing Championships
Il Maratoneta, third repeat by Ivan Lisica-Lija and a little history about this famous Manolo climb
31/01/2013 - Climbing
Il Maratoneta, third repeat by Ivan Lisica-Lija and a little history about this famous Manolo climb
On 27/01/2013 Croatian climber Ivan Lisica-Lija made the third repeat of Il Maratoneta, the legendary route first climbed by Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla at Paklenica (Croatia).
The rebirth of Jerzu in Sardinia
29/01/2013 - Climbing
The rebirth of Jerzu in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the latest developments at Jerzu, one of the most beautiful and popular climbing areas in Sardinia.
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
18/01/2013 - Alpinism
La Legrima, Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder make first ascent of the icefall on Sassolungo North Face
On 7 and 8 January 2013 the Catores Mountain Guides Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder made the first ascent of "La Legrima" (WI6 M6 V+, two sections of A0), the great ice and mixed line up the North Face of the Sassolungo (Dolomites) long pursued by numerous ice climbers.
Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing
10/01/2013 - Alpinism
Wolverine and the first WI 11 in the history of ice climbing
A brief analysis of the new grade WI 11, put forward for the first time in February 2012 by Klemen Premrl and Tim Emmett after having freed the single pitch ice climb Wolverine at the Helmcken Falls (Canada).
Hellzapoppin', a journey through the history of climbing Ivo Ferrari
08/01/2013 - Climbing
Hellzapoppin', a journey through the history of climbing Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari and climbing trip back in time up Hellzapoppin', one of the most beautiful climbs in the Mediterranean, first ascended in 1977 by Gianni Battimelli, Fabrizio Antonioli, Paul Bellotti, Giorgio Mallucci and Cristiano Delisi.
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 -  part 2
07/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 2
Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.
Cerro Torre, the Ragni Route and an increasingly popular Patagonia
04/01/2013 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, the Ragni Route and an increasingly popular Patagonia
News from Patagonia: 48 alpinists summited Cerro Torre via the Ragni Route, while a variation finish was added called Directa Huarpe. The Cerro Pollone group was traversed by Japanese climbers Jumbo Jokoyama e Ryo Masumoto.
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves as a reminder and as a source on inspiration for...
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.
Climbing in Finland - a short history
28/11/2012 - Climbing
Climbing in Finland - a short history
Tommy Vänskä, co-director of the film Kylmää kiveä, retraces the history of rock climbing in Finland.
Mick Fowler and the ascent of Prow of Shiva
16/11/2012 - Alpinism
Mick Fowler and the ascent of Prow of Shiva
A short interview with British mountaineer Mick Fowler who, together with Paul Ramsden, climbed the stunning new route Prow of Shiva ED+ up Mt. Shiva (6,142m), India.
Denis Urubko and his discovery of vertical Spain
15/11/2012 - Alpinism
Denis Urubko and his discovery of vertical Spain
Kazakh mountaineer Denis Urubko and his trip to Spain, an intense tour with talented Spanish alpinist Alex Txikon to reach the Vielha Festival on time...

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