4540 News found

30 years ago today German climbing legend Wolfgang Güllich died in a car crash aged just 31. He established the world’s first 8b, the world’s first 8b+, the world’s first 8c and, with Action Directe in Frankenjura, the world’s first 9a. A truly visionary figure, his influence extends well beyond...

Interview with Swiss alpinist Silvan Schüpbach who on 31/07/2022, with Carlos Molina from Argentina, climbed 7 routes in 24 hours in Wendenstöcke, Switzerland.

On Friday 26 August the Alberico - Borgna bivouac, located close to Col de la Fourche on the SE Ridge of Mont Maudit in the Mont Blanc massif was completely destroyed due to a landslide.

In the Ak-Su Valley in the Pamir Alay in Kyrgyzstan, Italian alpinists Federica Mingolla and Niccolò Bartoli have made the first ascent of Vivere la vita, an 800m big wall with difficulties up to on the South Buttress of Pik Slesova, also referred to as Peak 3850m.

18-year-old Australian rock climber Angie Scarth-Johnson has repeated the 9a Pornographie at Céüse in France.

Yannick Glatthard and Jonas Schild have established Stiller-Has (280m, 7c+/8a?) and Wilde Has (350m, 7b?) on Gstellihorn in Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland.

Alpinists Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer, after a first attempt by Messner and Barbara Vigl, have established 'La vita è bella', a new rock climb on Lagazuoi Nord in the Dolomites.

The European Bouldering Championship 2022 has been won by Janja Garnbret and Nicolai Uznik. Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret have been crowned European Lead Champions, while Aleksandra Miroslaw and Danyil Boldyrev have won the European Speed titles.

The video of Stefano Ghisolfi making first attempts on Ratstaman Vibrations, the route at Céüse bolted by Chris Sharma and freed by Alex Megos at the end of July.

Four Hungarian mountaineers, Laszlo Szasz, Bence Kerekes, Marton Nagy and Viktor Agoston, made the first ascent of the hitherto Bondit Peak in Pakistan. The four climbers summited 5980m in pure alpine style via the NE Ridge (1500m, 80°, WI 4).

Iain Miller introduces the rock climbing on Gola Island in Ireland. This island is one of the epicentre of the Donegal trad climbing scene with well over 200 single pitch routes from Diff to E5 on the pristine granite sea cliffs.

Maurizio Giordani and Nancy Paoletto have made the first ascent of ‘Su e giù' on Monte La Banca (2680m) close to the San Pellegrino Pass in the Dolomites, Italy. The new rock climb in the Marmolada group is dedicated to Davide Miotti.

From 20 to 24 July 2022 Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Marco Majori established Valore Alpino, a new route on Siula Grande (6344m) in Peru.

At Céüse in France Alexander Megos has made the first ascent of Ratstaman Vibrations, a project bolted by Chris Sharma over a decade ago. The German climber believes the climb checks in the 9b grade range.

Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts have established a new route on Nevado Jirishanca (6094m) in Peru. The complex line is called Reino Hongo and graded 5.8/90°/M7.

Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco and Jerome Perruquet summited K2 on 28 July 2022. The three climbed the second highest mountain in the world without supplementary oxygen, and all are now safely in base camp.