230 News found

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C'est trop facile, new mixed climb on Aiguille du Toula (Mont Blanc) by Niccolò Bruni, Federica Furia
04/11/2024 - Alpinism
C'est trop facile, new mixed climb on Aiguille du Toula (Mont Blanc) by Niccolò Bruni, Federica Furia
On 01/11/2024 Niccolò Bruni and Federica Furia made the first ascent of 'C'est trop facile', a new mixed climb on Aiguille de Toule in the Mont Blanc massif.
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
31/10/2024 - Alpinism
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
The Piolets d'Or 2024 will be awarded to the following climbs: 'The Secret Line' on the north face of Tirich Mir in Pakistan by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima, 'Round Trip Ticket' on the north face of Jannu in Nepal by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau, and 'Tomorrow...
New multipitch climb on Pedra Longa in Sardinia
21/10/2024 - Alpinism
New multipitch climb on Pedra Longa in Sardinia
Mountain guide Josef Hilpold has made the first ascent of 'Giai amus a obiare' (6b, 155m) on Pedra Longa in Sardinia.
Jordi Corominas to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2024
12/10/2024 - Alpinism
Jordi Corominas to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2024
Spanish alpinist Jordi Corominas has been named as 2024 recipient of the Piolets d'Or Carrière. He will receive the 16th Walter Bonatti - Piolets d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award at the international festival in San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) in December.
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
30/08/2024 - Alpinism
New Romanian climb on Pamir Pyramid in Karavshin valley, Ak-su, Kyrgystan
Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.
Colossal Dolomites enchainment by Dani Arnold, Simon Gietl
28/08/2024 - Alpinism
Colossal Dolomites enchainment by Dani Arnold, Simon Gietl
On August 9, 2024, Switzerland's Dani Arnold and Simon Gietl from the South Tyrol, Italy, climbed Einserkofel - Cima Una, Zwölferkofel - Croda dei Toni and Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Sexten Dolomites in a single day. A long enchainment via three big north faces, which the pair have...
Aleš Česen & Tom Livingstone climb West Ridge of Gasherbrum III
13/08/2024 - Alpinism
Aleš Česen & Tom Livingstone climb West Ridge of Gasherbrum III
Over a period of 7 days Slovenian alpinist Aleš Česen and his British counterpart Tom Livingstone successfully made the first ascent of the West Ridge of Gasherbrum III in Pakistan's Karakoram. Their alpine-style success on 'Edge of Entropy' this summer comes about after an attempt in 2022 which saw the...
David Göttler abandons ambitious Nanga Parbat attempt
11/07/2024 - Alpinism
David Göttler abandons ambitious Nanga Parbat attempt
David Göttler has abandoned his ambitious expedition on Nanga Parbat for this year, due to unfavourable conditions during his final summit attempt. The German alpinist had hoped to climb the Rupal Face alpine style, initially with Mike Arnold, then with Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein.
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/06/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour push on 12 June 2024.
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
07/06/2024 - Alpinism
Hungchi West Face climbed alpine style by Charles Dubouloz, Symon Welfringer
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Symon Welfringer have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed West Face of Hungchi (7029m) in Nepal. Their 1700m high new route, 'Le cavalier sans tête', was climbed alpine style from 17 - 19 May and involved a descent via the mountain's east face.
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
29/03/2024 - Alpinism
Variety is the spice of life / An all-female ascent of the Gervasutti-Gagliardone on the Grandes Jorasses
Austrian alpinist Barbara Vigl reports about a repeat of the 'Gervasutti-Gagliardone' on the East Face of the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Blanc massif, carried out in July 2023 by Vigl with Anna Truntschnig and Anna Zechling. Apart from possibly being the first all-female ascent of this route, the repeat underscores the...
Fascinating Friulian Dolomites new mixed climb on Mount Duranno
26/12/2023 - Alpinism
Fascinating Friulian Dolomites new mixed climb on Mount Duranno
On 12/24/2024 Mirco Grasso, Francesco Rigon and Luca Vallata made the first ascent of ' Archi del Vento', a fascinating new mixed climb on the north face of the Naso del Monte Duranno (Carnic Prealps, Friulian Dolomites, Italy.
Matterhorn's Carrel hut to be moved to avoid rockfall
29/11/2023 - Alpinism
Matterhorn's Carrel hut to be moved to avoid rockfall
The Carrel hut on the Matterhorn will be moved to avoid rockfall. The new bivouac will be built a few meters from its current location and should be inaugurated in summer 2024. The cost of demolition and reconstruction is in the regione of two million euros.
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
11/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
On Breithorn Centrale the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza have established the mixed climb 'Estate Indiana'. The 800m route breaches difficulties up to M8 AI5 R, summits Torre Maggiore and was climbed completely clean, i.e. using trad gear only.
Dolomites Cima Grande di Lavaredo x 600 for Heini Gütl
28/08/2023 - Alpinism
Dolomites Cima Grande di Lavaredo x 600 for Heini Gütl
The other day the 69-year-old mountain guide from Sexten, South Tyrol, Italy Heini Gütl reached the summit of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Dolomites for the 600th time
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the Normal Route
14/07/2023 - Alpinism
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the normal route
Interview with Nadir Maguet who set a new ascent and descent record on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif on Monday 10 July 2023. The 29-year-old Italian athlete climbed the normal route from Planpincieux (Courmayeur - Val Ferret) to Pointe Walker (4,208m) in 2:17. After a short rest...

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