219 News found

26/12/2023 - Alpinism
Fascinating Friulian Dolomites new mixed climb on Mount Duranno On 12/24/2024 Mirco Grasso, Francesco Rigon and Luca Vallata made the first ascent of ' Archi del Vento', a fascinating new mixed climb on the north face of the Naso del Monte Duranno (Carnic Prealps, Friulian Dolomites, Italy.

29/11/2023 - Alpinism
Matterhorn's Carrel hut to be moved to avoid falling rocks The Carrel hut on the Matterhorn will be moved to avoid falling rocks. The new bivouac will be built a few meters from its current location and should be inaugurated in summer 2024. The cost of demolition and reconstruction is...

11/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza On Breithorn Centrale the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza have established the mixed climb 'Estate Indiana'. The 800m route breaches difficulties up to M8 AI5 R, summits Torre Maggiore and was climbed completely clean, i.e. using trad gear...

28/08/2023 - Alpinism
Dolomites Cima Grande di Lavaredo x 600 for Heini Gütl The other day the 69-year-old mountain guide from Sexten, South Tyrol, Italy Heini Gütl reached the summit of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Dolomites for the 600th time

14/07/2023 - Alpinism
Nadir Maguet sets new FKT on Grandes Jorasses, 3:19 round trip via the normal route Interview with Nadir Maguet who set a new ascent and descent record on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif on Monday 10 July 2023. The 29-year-old Italian athlete climbed the normal route from Planpincieux (Courmayeur - Val Ferret)...

31/05/2023 - Alpinism
New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia In March 2023 at Meteora in Greece the Italians Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established the multi-pitch climb Pythagoras (150m, 7a max, 6c obligatory) on the Sourloti Tower. Oviglia reports.

03/02/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new mixed climb on Barre des Écrins by Julien Cruvellier de Luze, Nicolas Jean, Benjamin Védrines Between 28 and 29 January 2023 the French alpinists Julien Cruvellier, Nicolas Jean and Benjamin Védrines made the first ascent of 'De l'Or en Barre' a difficult mixed climb on the south face of the Barre des Écrins (4102 m)....

26/01/2023 - Alpinism
Multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri summits Aconcagua twice! Precisely 8 years after contracting meningitis and meningococcal septicaemia, Italian mountaineer and multiple limb amputee Andrea Lanfri successfully made two ascents of Aconcagua, at 6961 meters the highest mountain in South America. This is Lanfri’s fourth Seven Summits peak, after Mont...

20/01/2023 - Interviews
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler and their Dhaulagiri winter alpine style attempt Interview with the mountaineers Hervé Barmasse and David Göttler, currently attempting to climb Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in winter and in alpine style.

11/01/2023 - Alpinism
Juho Knuuttila adds new two committing mixed climbs to Rånkeipen in Norway, one rope-solo Finnish alpinist Juho Knuuttila (27) has added two new mixed climbs on the SW Face of Rånkeipen close to Narvik in Norway. 'Arctic Circus' (M6, WI6) was first ascended with Alexander Nordvall (29), while 'Polar Vortex' (M6, WI6) was established...

05/12/2022 - Alpinism
New route on Lasunayoc in Peru’s Cordillera Vilcabamba by Nathan Heald, Leo Rasalio Nathan Heald reports about the first ascent of new route up the SE Face of Nevado Lasunayoc (5,936m) in the Pumasillo massif of the Cordillera Vilcabamba in Peru. The new mixed climb, carried out with local mountaineer Leo Rasalio,...

23/11/2022 - Alpinism
Silvo Karo, the Piolet d'Or 2022 Lifetime Achievement Award video The video portrait of 61-year-old Slovenian mountaineer Silvo Karo who was awarded with the 14th Piolets d'Or Carrière 2022 last weekend at Briançon in France.

18/11/2022 - Interviews
Silvo Karo / Interview with the climbing legend from Slovenia Interview with Slovenian climbing legend Silvo Karo who this weekend at Briançon in France will receive the Piolet d'Or Carrière - Lifetime Achievement Award 2022 for his mountaineering that spans the last four decades and includes more than 300 first...

14/11/2022 - Book-press
Alex Buisse's ten best climbs in the Mont Blanc massif French photographer Alex Buisse introduces his 10 favourite climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. The routes feature in his stunning photographic topo guide to the range 'Mont Blanc Lines' (Vertebrate Publishing 2022).

12/10/2022 - Alpinism
Monviso NNW Ridge in winter, following in the footsteps of Patrick Berhault. By Barbara Vigl Barbara Vigl reports about her winter ascent, carried out with David Göttler in March 2022, of the NNW Ridge of Monviso in Italy. The first winter ascent was carried out by Patrick Berhault in 2001, as Ivo Ferrari explains in...

07/10/2022 - Alpinism
Silvo Karo honoured with Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award 2022 Slovenian alpinist Silvo Karo is to receive the 14th Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 17 to 20 November at Briançon in France. In the past the prestigious mountaineering prize has been...
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