302 News found

Maurizio Oviglia shares the latest news and discusses the curent safety situation of sport crags in Sardinia. This first chapter is dedicated to the wild southwest coast and the crags at Gonnesa, Iglesias, Buggerru and Masua.

The third edition of 'Baunei, Sport climbing', the compact climbing guidebook by Maurizio Oviglia, has been published by Pietra di Luna Edizioni. One of the best-selling guidebooks to the east coast of Sardinia, Italy, features all the crags in the Baunei area, as well as the multi-pitch climbs on Pedra...

Mountain guide Josef Hilpold has made the first ascent of 'Giai amus a obiare' (6b, 155m) on Pedra Longa in Sardinia.

On 30 April 2024 Jakob Steinkasserer and Simon Gietl made the first ascent of 'Hexentango' (WI 4+, M 4+, 55°, 500m) on the west face of Hochflachkofel in the Rieserferner Group in South Tyrol, Italy. Steinkasserer reports.

Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.

British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...

We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.

A large portion of Sessi, one of the best crags in the entire Valle di Susa, has succumbed to rockfall. Carlo Giuliberti reports.

The Melloblocco, the largest bouldering meeting in the world which this year celebrated 20 years since its historic first edition, ended after four days of climbing and celebration. 2600 registered climbers and over 8000 people in total in the valley enjoyed 4 days of sun and untouched nature in Val...

At La Pedriza in Spain, British rock climber Shauna Coxsey climbed 'Fotofobia Sit' (8B+/V14+).

Seb Bush from Italy, Simon Smith and Mike Turner from the UK have recently established 'Pretty reckless cats' a hard multi-pitch rock climb on the Northwest Face of Kizilin Basì in the Aladağlar National Park in southern Turkey. The 300m climb was established ground-up with the use of aid and...

On 6 August 2023 on Pera del Ferro in Valle del Ferro (Val Masino, Italy) Matteo Bedendo and Lorenzo Casolini made the first ascent of 'Vascello Fantasma’, Ghost Ship. This route is 'Recommended for those who love climbing in remote and forgotten places in the high mountains, with a penchant...

The report and route topo of 'Utúlie‘n Aurë' (8-/RS3/I), the new multi-pitch first ascended in mid-July on the West Face of Coston d'Averau (Nuvolau, Dolomites) by Czech mountaineers Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka and Anna Coubalová.

Swiss climber Didier Berthod has made the first ascent of The Crack of Destiny on The Chief at Squamish in Canada. Graded 5.14, this checks in as one of the hardest crack climbs in North America.

On Punta Argennas in Sardinia Mathias Mandi and Klaas Willems have made the first ascent of I Ribelli Della Montagna 7c (7a+ obligatory).

In March 2023 at Meteora in Greece the Italians Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established the multi-pitch climb Pythagoras (150m, 7a max, 6c obligatory) on the Sourloti Tower. Oviglia reports.