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New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia
31/05/2023 - Alpinism
New multipitch climb at Meteora in Greece by Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia
In March 2023 at Meteora in Greece the Italians Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established the multi-pitch climb Pythagoras (150m, 7a max, 6c obligatory) on the Sourloti Tower. Oviglia reports.
Watch the 1963 first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia
08/04/2023 - Alpinism
Watch the 1963 first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia
The documentary of the first ascent of the Central Tower of Paine in Patagonia, completed on 16 January 1963 by British mountaineers Chris Bonington and Don Whillans.
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
27/01/2023 - Alpinism
Lest we forget: the Italian racial laws, the Italian Mountaineering club and its Jewish members
In December 1938 a 'highly confidential' internal document from the National Council of the Italian Mountaineering Club (CAI) sent to all its sections indicated the criteria for purging members of the 'non-Aryan race'. As a result hundreds, guilty of simply being Jews, did not have their membership renewed. Today the...
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war
24/01/2023 - Alpinism
Ukrainian mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny die in Russia-Ukraine war
35-year-old mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny died on 21 January close to the city of Soledar in Ukraine. After dedicating their lives to climbing and mountaineering, they perished while in battle. Zakolodny was a successful Himalayan mountaineer and had earned the prestigious Snow Leopard award.
Goodbye to Glen Denny, climber and photographer of Yosemite’s Golden Age
16/10/2022 - Climbing
Goodbye to Glen Denny, climber and photographer of Yosemite’s Golden Age
American rock climber and photographer Glenn Denny (1939 - 2022) has passed away. Author of numerous classics such as West Face of Leaning Tower and Astroman, his images captured the Golden Age of rock climbing in Yosemite National Park.
Landslide destroys Alberico - Borgna Bivouac at Col de la Fourche, Mont Blanc massif
28/08/2022 - Alpinism
Landslide destroys Alberico - Borgna Bivouac at Col de la Fourche, Mont Blanc massif
On Friday 26 August the Alberico - Borgna bivouac, located close to Col de la Fourche on the SE Ridge of Mont Maudit in the Mont Blanc massif was completely destroyed due to a landslide.
Pumari Chhish East first ascent in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan
08/07/2022 - Alpinism
Pumari Chhish East first ascent in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan
Climbing alpine style from 25 - 29 June 2022 French alpinists Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan completed the first ascent of Pumari Chhish East (6850m) in Pakistan. 'The Crystal Ship' (M7, 6b, A2, 1600m) takes a technical, direct route up the mountain’s south face. Sullivan reports.
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
30/05/2022 - Alpinism
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
Claude Gardien, historic editor-in-chief of the French magazine Vertical, remembers Simone Badier who passed away on 18 March 2022. Born in 1936 and as talented as she was discreet, she was one of the leading figures in women's climbing and mountaineering.
Jugal Spire in Nepal climbed by Tim Miller, Paul Ramsden
18/05/2022 - Alpinism
Jugal Spire in Nepal climbed by Tim Miller, Paul Ramsden
Interview with British mountaineer Paul Ramsden who with Tim Miller completed an alpine style first ascent of The Phantom Line (1200m, ED+) up the north face of a previously unclimbed and unnamed 6563m peak now called Jugal Spire in the Jugal Himal region of Nepal
Sustainable climbing. The guidebook to Tyrol, Austria by Lena Müller, Deniz Scheerer
06/05/2022 - Climbing
Sustainable climbing. The guidebook to Tyrol, Austria by Lena Müller, Deniz Scheerer
Lena Müller and Deniz Scheerer have produced a climbing guidebook to climate-friendly rock climbing in Tyrol, Austria. Entitled 'Klimafreundlich Klettern. Ein Guidebook zur Anreise mit Bus, Bahn und Rad für Tirol', the guidebook promotes sustainability through the use of bus, train and bicycle to reach 21 different crags and is...
East Greenland 2021: 8 new climbs, 7 big walls by Favresse, Jaruta, Villanueva, Wertz
03/11/2021 - Alpinism
East Greenland 2021: 8 new climbs, 7 big walls by Favresse, Jaruta, Villanueva, Wertz
The final report by Nicolas Favresse who this summer with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll, Jean-Louis Wertz and Aleksej Jaruta, climbed a series of new routes in the Kangertigtivatsiaq Fjord area of Eastern Greenland
More new climbs in Greenland by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
21/09/2021 - Alpinism
More new climbs in Greenland by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
The second report by Nicolas Favresse who in the Kangertigtivatsiaq Fjord in Greenland has established another 5 new big walls with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll, Jean-Louis Wertz and Aleksej Jaruta.
Mount Everest Centenary Exhibition launched by Alpine Club in London
24/06/2021 - Events
Mount Everest Centenary Exhibition launched by alpine club in London
The alpine club has opened its landmark exhibition 'Everest: By Those Who Were There' to the public. The exhibition commemorates 100 years since the first expedition to Mount Everest in 1921, and explores, in intimate detail, the three alpine club and Royal Geographical Society expeditions of the 1920s.
Goodbye Doug Scott
07/12/2020 - Alpinism
Goodbye Doug Scott
British mountaineer Doug Scott passed away today. Aged 79, he was recognised as one of the greatest mountaineers of all times.
Glen Denny, the Golden Age of Yosemite photographer
14/10/2020 - Climbing
Glen Denny, the Golden Age of Yosemite photographer
The video tribute to Glen Denny, the American climber and photographer who captured through his images the Golden Age of rock climbing in Yosemite National Park, by the American alpine club Legacy Series.
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn
07/10/2020 - Alpinism
New line on Mount Robson Emperor Face by Ethan Berman, Uisdean Hawthorn
Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn have made the first ascent of Running in the Shadows (VI AI5 M6 2000m), a big new mixed route up the famous Emperor Face of Mount Robson in the Canadian Rockies.