111 News found

35-year-old mountaineers Grigory Grigoryev and Alexander Zakolodny died on 21 January close to the city of Soledar in Ukraine. After dedicating their lives to climbing and mountaineering, they perished while in battle. Zakolodny was a successful Himalayan mountaineer and had earned the prestigious Snow Leopard award.

The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2021.The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated from 18 to 20 November 2022 at Briançon in France.

Slovakian alpinist Juraj Švingál reports about Dry Ice Queen (M9- WI6+), a 21-pitch technical mixed climb ascended with Marek Radovský on Mount Zabor in the Kookshal Too massif in Kyrgyzstan. Ascended alpine style on 13 and 14 August 2022, it is believed that this is a new route.

Four Hungarian mountaineers, Laszlo Szasz, Bence Kerekes, Marton Nagy and Viktor Agoston, made the first ascent of the hitherto Bondit Peak in Pakistan. The four climbers summited 5980m in pure alpine style via the NE Ridge (1500m, 80°, WI 4).

On the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Pietro Picco have added a difficult new variation start to the Kinshofer route. Called Valle d'Aosta Express, the 1400m addition breaches difficulties up to AI 90° M6 85°, and was climbed on 26 June.

Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Micher Quito have established two new routes in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru: Hanan pacha (90°/425m) on Urus Oeste and Emmoa (M6/75°/640m) on Urus Oeste III.

Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini reports about the first ascent of the virgin Shaue Sar (6653m) in Karakorum, Pakistan, first ascended on 27/05/2022 with Philipp Brugger and Lukas Waldner. Franchini also soloed the unclimbed peaks Gypsy Sar (5810m) and Croz von Zartgurben (4650m).

Interview with German alpinist David Göttler who at 9:45am on 21 May 2022 reached the summit of Everest without supplementary oxygen. This is the 43-year-old's sixth 8000er, after Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and Makalu.

Italian mountaineers Andrea Lanfri and Luca Montanari have completed their acclimatisation process on Everest. After spending a night at Camp 3 at 7200m, they are currently resting in base camp. Lanfri, a paralympic athlete, is hoping to summit after 7 May.

The report by Tomas Franchini, currently in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, where he has climbed Nevado Ulta and Nevado Huandoy Norte.

Mountaineers Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev and Alex Tyulyupo have established a series of new routes in the Western Kokshaal-Too mountain range in Kyrgyzstan. Highlights included ascents of Pik Alpinist (5482m) and Pik Korolyova (5816m).

In July a Slovenian Youth Alpine Team comprised of Matija Volontar, Bor Levičnik, Matevž Štular and Blaž Karner succeeded in climbing two new routes on Hualcan (6122m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Štular provides the report of the ascents, one of which was carried out with Aritza Monasterio.

On the 9th of August, the French-Peruvian Andinists Steve Meder and Edward Saona established a new route up the South-West Face of Nevado Sullcon Sur (5650m) in the Central Cordillera mountain range of Peru. Cara Suroeste Directa is only the 4th ascent of the mountain.

Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja has reported that he climbed K2 in winter without the use of supplementary oxygen.

The storms that hit K2 last week have wrecked Camp 2, destroying all equipment belonging to the expedition led by Nirmal Purja. The 37-year-old Nepalese mountaineer has already stated he will not give up and simply postpone his attempt to climb the last remaining eight-thousander that has never been climbed...

K2 winter update: diverse teams of mountaineers are attempting the first winter ascent of K2, the only 8000er never climbed before in the coldest season. The Nepalese teams led by Nirmal Purja and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa joined forces at altitude and have fixed ropes almost to Camp 3.