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 Spontaneity, altruism and drama in Patagonia
27/01/2019 - Alpinism
Spontaneity, altruism and drama in Patagonia
Tragedy in Patagonia: last week a Czech mountaineer died on Fitz Roy and two Brazilian mountaineers have gone missing. A 19-man rescue attempt was launched including Italian mountaineers Claudio Migliorini, Luca Schiera, Edoardo Albrighi, Jacopo Zezza, Giampaolo Calzà, Paolo Marazzi, Dimitri Anghileri, two Spanish climbers, two Argentinians and Denis Urubko....
Pioneering Patagonia: Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera climb Cerro Mangiafuoco
26/01/2019 - Alpinism
Pioneering Patagonia: Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera climb Cerro Mangiafuoco
In Patagonia the two Ragni di Lecco alpinists Paolo Marazzi and Luca Schiera have made the first ascent of Cerro Mangiafuoco. The new route is called L'appel du vide (6c M4 400m).
Dariusz Sokołowski discovers his Parallel World, D16 dry tooling in the Dolomites
18/01/2019 - Alpinism
Dariusz Sokołowski discovers his Parallel World, D16 dry tooling in the Dolomites
On 20 December 2018 Polish mountaineer Dariusz Sokołowski made the first free ascent of Parallel World, a dry tooling climb that crosses a 60-meter horizontal roof at crag Tomorrow's World in the Italian Dolomites. Graded D16, if the grade is confirmed, this checks in as one of the most difficult...
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
17/01/2019 - Alpinism
Enrico Sasso makes solo first ascent up Marguareis North Face
Enrico Sasso reports about his 11 December 2018 solo first ascent of Rose (ED, 380m, WI4, M7) a new mixed route up the north face of Marguareis in the Ligurian Alps, Italy.
Jakob Schubert makes first repeat of Neanderthal, Chris Sharma 9b at Santa Linya
29/12/2018 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert makes first repeat of Neanderthal, Chris Sharma 9b at Santa Linya
Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has made the first repeat of Neanderthal, the 9b sports climb put up by Chris Sharma in 2009 at the Santa Linya in Spain.
Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder
27/12/2018 - Interviews
Lorenzo Puri climbs 100 boulder problems 8A and harder
Interview with the 23-year-old Italian climber Lorenzo Puri, who recently climbed his 100th boulder problem graded 8A or harder.
Matilda Söderlund returns to form at Red River Gorge
07/12/2018 - Climbing
Matilda Söderlund returns to form at Red River Gorge
Swedish rock climber Matilda Söderlund has repeated Pure Imagination 8c+ at Red River Gorge, USA
Jakob Schubert repeats El bon combat, Chris Sharma’s king line at Cova de Ocell
02/12/2018 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert repeats El bon combat, Chris Sharma’s king line at Cova de Ocell
Austrian climber Jakob Schubert has made the first repeat of El bon combat, the superbly difficult route freed by Chris Sharma in 2015 at Cova de Ocell in Spain.
Mélissa Le Nevé shines on Golden Ticket 8c+ at Red River Gorge
28/11/2018 - Climbing
Mélissa Le Nevé shines on Golden Ticket 8c+ at Red River Gorge
French climber Mélissa Le Nevé has repeated Golden Ticket, an 8c+ sports climb at Red River Gorge, USA.
Ben Moon repeats Evolution, Jerry Moffatt 8c+ at Raven Tor
26/11/2018 - Climbing
Ben Moon repeats Evolution, Jerry Moffatt 8c+ at Raven Tor
British climber Ben Moon (52) has repeated Evolution, the 8c+ sports climb freed by Jerry Moffatt at Ravens Tor, England.
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
16/11/2018 - Alpinism
Pakistan 2018: Kiris Peak and a yesteryear mountaineering adventure. By Maurizio Giordani
Italian alpinist Maurizio Giordani reports about his climbing expedition to Pakistan during which, with Massimo Faletti, he completed a stylish ascent of Water World, a beautiful and difficult big wall up the hitherto unclimbed Kiris Peak (5428m). The other expedition members included Manrico Dell’Agnola, Antonella Giacomin, Cristiano Marinello, Andrea Peron,...
Edward Mills wins award for Old Man of Hoy fundraising climb against cancer
10/11/2018 - Alpinism
Edward Mills wins award for Old Man of Hoy fundraising climb against cancer
8-year-old Edward Mills, who raised over € 30,000 against cancer with his ascent of The Old Man of Hoy in Scotland, has won the prestigious annual 'Young Fundraiser of the Year - Pride of Britain Awards'.
Eiger: Roger Schaeli adds Airplane Mode to famous North Face
08/11/2018 - Alpinism
Eiger: Roger Schaeli adds Airplane Mode to famous North Face
Swiss alpinist Roger Schaeli has made the first ascent of Airplane Mode up the North Face of the Eiger.
Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan
07/11/2018 - Alpinism
Patagonia El Faro climbed by Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan
In Patagonia close to Cerro San Lorenzo alpinists Martin Elias, François Poncet and Jérôme Sullivan have made the first ascent of a previously unclimbed tower. Called El Faro, it was climbed alpine style via their new route La Milagrosa (1200m, A3, M7, 6a).
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Punta Frida: a first ascent in the Dolomites
30/10/2018 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Punta Frida: a first ascent in the Dolomites
Czech alpinist Michal Coubal reports about a first ascent, carried out with Aja Coubalova up Punta Frida, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites: The Lights from the other World.
Eric Albertini frees Infinity 9a, the longest climb at Pueblo, Massone Arco
08/10/2018 - Climbing
Eric Albertini frees Infinity 9a, the longest climb at Pueblo, Massone Arco
Rock climbing at Arco, Italy: at the crag Massone the 32-year-old electrician from Brescia Eric Albertini repeated the 9a Pure Dreaming and made the first ascent of Infinity. Graded 9a, this 50m outing is now the longest sport climb in the sector Pueblo at Massone.

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