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Strike! the incredible route at Perda asub 'e pari in Sardinia
10/06/2013 - Climbing
Strike! the incredible route at Perda asub 'e pari in Sardinia
On 31 May 2013, 33 years after its first ascent, Maurizio Oviglia and Corrado Pibiri completed this historic route in southern Sardinia. Originally three pitches long, the route now offers six (plus two traverses) to reach the top of beautiful Perda asub 'e pari (also known as Garibaldi), one of...
Red Bull X-Alps 2013: July take off!
05/06/2013 - Competitions
Red Bull X-Alps 2013: July take off!
On 7 July the Red Bull X-Alps 2013 gets underway, the immensely difficult race on foot or by paraglider from Salzburg in Austria to the Principality of Monaco. 32 athletes from 21 countries will take part, including three Italians: Aaron Durogati, Peter Gebhard and Andy Frötscher.
Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
03/06/2013 - Climbing
Monte Santu, Baunei, Sardinia. Two new routes by Larcher & Oviglia and Giupponi & Sartori
Two new 8a multi-pitch climbs on Monte Santu, Baunei, one of the last virgin crags in Sardinia: Vertigine Blu" (275m, 8a max, 7a+ obl.) established by Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori and "Blu Oltremare" (315m, 8a max, 7b obl.) established by Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia. Both climbs were established...
Melloblocco 2013: day ten, goodbye to the Valley
05/05/2013 - Events
Melloblocco 2013: day ten, goodbye to the Valley
5/05/2013. The last day of the 10th Melloblocco. 10 days of climbing and bouldering to reaffirm the indissoluble bond between Val Masino - Val di Mello and the Melloblockers. All 2,000 climbers have promised to return next year.
Melloblocco 2013: day nine, beauty
04/05/2013 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2013: day nine, beauty
04/05/2013. 2000 climbers had registered on the penultimate day of Melloblocco and the number is expected to grow even further. Today everyone got some great climbing done beneath a gorgeous blue sky. Many problems were sent. Expectations are high now for tonight's big party which paves the way for tomorrow's...
Michele Caminati dodges rain and snow in search of sun on England's gritstone
16/04/2013 - Climbing
Michele Caminati dodges rain and snow in search of sun on England's gritstone
The report by Michele Caminati about yet another trip to England to climb some of the famous gritstone trad routes and boulder problems.
Melloblocco Special 2013: 10 years for 10 free climbing days in Val di Mello
12/04/2013 - Events
Melloblocco Special 2013: 10 years for 10 free climbing days in Val di Mello
The 10th Melloblocco will take place from 26 April to 5 May 2013 in Valmasino - Val di Mello, Italy. This is the world's most important international bouldering meeting.
New Peak District gritstone climbs by Tom Randall
07/04/2013 - Climbing
New Peak District gritstone climbs by Tom Randall
At Hallmoor Quarry in England's Peak District British climber Tom Randall has made the first ascent of Soft Parade E6 6b, while at Gardoms Edge he established Porride Egg E6 6a and Nah'han E8 6c.
Aiguille des Pelerins Voie Normale
Aiguille des Pelerins Voie Normale
On 14/02/13 Julien Herry, Luca Rolli and Davide Capozzi ascended and then skied and snowboarded down the Voie Normale on Aiguille des Pelerins. A descent - the first recorded ski and snowboard descent - which is highly particular and unlikely to be repeated soon without exceptional snow conditions such as...
Senza piombo, clean mixed climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
01/02/2013 - Alpinism
Senza piombo, clean mixed climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
The Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of Senza piombo in Val Lunga (Dolomites); a difficult mixed route protected only with trad gear and presumably the first M10 in the world established in this clean style.
Patagonia, news from Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, the Ragni and more
30/01/2013 - Alpinism
Patagonia, news from Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre, the Ragni and more
Fresh news from Patagonia: new routes on Fitz Roy (Flavio Daflon, Sergio Tartari and Luciano Fiorenza) and Aguja de l’S (Josh Huckaby and Mikey Schaefer); The Corkscrew on Cerro Torre climbed by Colin Haley and Chad Kellogg; an attempt currently underway on the West Face of Torre Egger (Matteo Della...
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia
09/01/2013 - Alpinism
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia
'How could I define the time spent in Patagonia. Expedition? Holiday? Journey? The right term is none of these' The trip report by Corrado Korra Pesce who has just spent a month in Patagonia which resulted in a series of ascents including a fast repeat of Supercanaleta up Fitz Roy...
Youth climbing competitions and interview with Tina Johnsen Hafsaas
28/12/2012 - Interviews
Youth climbing competitions and interview with Tina Johnsen Hafsaas
An analysis of the youth climbing competition scene and interview with European Lead Tina Johnsen Hafsaas. An article by Franz Schiassi.
Silbergeier, Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat climbing in the Rätikon
27/12/2012 - Climbing
Silbergeier, Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat climbing in the Rätikon
The video of Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat repeating Silbergeier (8b/8b+, 240m) in the Rätikon, Switzerland.
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.
The Ragni di Lecco and the climbing in Southern Italy
10/12/2012 - Climbing
The Ragni di Lecco and the climbing in Southern Italy
The Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club has decided to support the development of new cliffs in Southern Italy.

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