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New big wall climb on Siren Tower in Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
23/08/2021 - Alpinism
New big wall climb on Siren Tower in Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
A strong Italian-Swiss-French trio comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach and Symon Welfringer has succeeded in establishing and freeing Forum (840m, 7c) on the remote Siren Tower in Greenland. This major big wall was reached by fair means after kayaking a distance of 170km for 5 days.
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
20/08/2021 - Alpinism
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
In July a Slovenian Youth Alpine Team comprised of Matija Volontar, Bor Levičnik, Matevž Štular and Blaž Karner succeeded in climbing two new routes on Hualcan (6122m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Štular provides the report of the ascents, one of which was carried out with Aritza Monasterio.
New climb on Peru’s Nevado Sullcon Sur by Steve Meder, Edward Saona
19/08/2021 - Alpinism
New climb on Peru’s Nevado Sullcon Sur by Steve Meder, Edward Saona
On the 9th of August, the French-Peruvian Andinists Steve Meder and Edward Saona established a new route up the South-West Face of Nevado Sullcon Sur (5650m) in the Central Cordillera mountain range of Peru. Cara Suroeste Directa is only the 4th ascent of the mountain.
Histoire sans Fin free at last on Petit Clocher du Portalet by Seb Berthe, Siebe Vanhee
17/08/2021 - Alpinism
Histoire sans Fin free at last on Petit Clocher du Portalet by Seb Berthe, Siebe Vanhee
Belgian climbers Siebe Vanhee and Sébastien Berthe have made the first free ascent of Histoire sans Fin on Petit Clocher du Portalet in Switzerland, an 8b+ multi-pitch they describe ravingly as 'the best granite multipitch of the grade in Europe.' Vanhee reports.
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
Dmitrii Panov reports about a Russian summer 2020 climbing expedition to Peak Kart and Peak Mechta, situated in the South Muysky Ridge area of Siberia. During the 20-day expedition the climbers forged 8 new routes, made the first ascents of 8 mountains and completed 2 ridge traverses.
Pumari Chhish East SE Ridge attempted by Tom Livingstone, Mathieu Maynadier
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
Pumari Chhish East SE Ridge attempted by Tom Livingstone, Mathieu Maynadier
In June 2021 Tom Livingstone and Mathieu Maynadier attempted the unclimbed SE Ridge of Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan. Due to prohibitive conditions they descended from 6750m.
David Leduc climbs solo in the Valley of Dreams on Agner and Spiz di Lagunaz
12/08/2021 - Alpinism
David Leduc climbs solo in the Valley of Dreams on Agner and Spiz di Lagunaz
29-year-old Belgian mountaineer David Leduc has made fast solo ascents of the Spigolo Nord of Agner and the Diedro Casarotto-Radin on Spiz di Lagunaz (Dolomites). An intimate journey on both sides of the Valley of Dreams.
New rock climb added to Presolana by Angelo Contessi, Leo Gheza
11/08/2021 - Alpinism
New rock climb added to Presolana by Angelo Contessi, Leo Gheza
On the north face of Presolana Angelo Contessi and Leonardo Gheza have made the first ascent of Presolana Holiday. The new multi-pitch rock climb tackles an independent line between via Bosio and Le Medaglie di Matley. Gheza reports.
Tokyo 2020 Olympics: sport climbing Women's Finals live
06/08/2021 - Competitions
Tokyo 2020 Olympics: sport climbing Women's Finals live
Sport climbing Women's Finals of the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games today. Running commentary starting from 10:30. Janja Garnbret claims Gold! Miho Nonaka silver, Akiyo Noguchi bronze!
Tokyo 2020 Olympics: sport climbing Men's Finals live
05/08/2021 - Competitions
Tokyo 2020 Olympics: sport climbing Men's Finals live
Sport climbing Men's Finals of the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games today. Running commentary starting from 10:30. GOLD for Alberto Ginés López, Nathaniel Coleman silver, Jakob Schubert bronze.
Adam Pustelnik, IFSC Chief Route-setter Lead, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games
29/07/2021 - Interviews
Adam Pustelnik, IFSC Chief Route-setter Lead, talks Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games
Interview with Adam Pustelnik, IFSC Chief Routesetter for Lead at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics.
Rick Allen perishes on K2
27/07/2021 - Alpinism
Rick Allen perishes on K2
68-year-old Scottish mountaineer Rick Allen has lost his life while attempting to establish a new route on K2. In 2012, together with Sandy Allan, he completed the historic first traverse of the interminable Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat.
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
26/07/2021 - Alpinism
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
Towards the end of June French mountain guides Martin Elias, Victor Saucède, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan made the first ascent of Harvest Moon, a new route on Dansam West (6600m) above the Kondus Valley in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbed alpine style, the 1600m route is graded M6 WI6. Jérôme...
Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou
15/07/2021 - Alpinism
Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou
Enenko and Iker Pou have made the first ascent of ¡Viva Perú Carajo !, a new mixed climb up the South Face of Nevado Huamashraju East in Peru. At the same time their expedition partners Manu Ponce and Micher Quito also established a new route up the mountain’s north face.
Laura Rogora and Sean Bailey win Chamonix Lead World Cup
14/07/2021 - Competitions
Laura Rogora and Sean Bailey win Chamonix Lead World Cup
The penultimate stage of the Lead World Cup 2021 was won on Tuesday night by Laura Rogora from Italy and Sean Bailey from the USA in Chamonix in France. Stefano Ghisolfi placed a wonderful second, together with America’s Natalia Grossman. Aleksandra Totkova from Bulgaria and Martin Stranik from the Czech...
Chantel Astorga interview after Cassin Ridge solo on Denali in Alaska
28/06/2021 - Interviews
Chantel Astorga interview after Cassin Ridge solo on Denali in Alaska
Interview with top American alpinist Chantel Astorga after the first female solo ascent of the Cassin Ridge on Denali in Alaska.

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