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Nanga Parbat Aosta Valley Express variation climbed by François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco
27/06/2022 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat Aosta Valley Express variation climbed by François Cazzanelli, Pietro Picco
On the Diamir face of Nanga Parbat the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Pietro Picco have added a difficult new variation start to the Kinshofer route. Called Valle d'Aosta Express, the 1400m addition breaches difficulties up to AI 90° M6 85°, and was climbed on 26 June.
New climbs on Urus Oeste in Peruvian Andes by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
27/06/2022 - Alpinism
New climbs on Urus Oeste in Peruvian Andes by Pou brothers, Micher Quito
Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Micher Quito have established two new routes in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru: Hanan pacha (90°/425m) on Urus Oeste and Emmoa (M6/75°/640m) on Urus Oeste III.
New Ranrapalca route in Peru by Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori, Giovanni Zaccaria
24/06/2022 - Alpinism
New Ranrapalca route in Peru by Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori, Giovanni Zaccaria
On 10/06/2022 on north face of Ranrapalca 6162m in Peru the Italian mountaineers Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori and Giovanni Zaccaria established a new mixed route alpine style. 'Mucha Banana', is 600m high with difficulties estimated at 80°, AI3+, M5.
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
20/06/2022 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Federica Mingolla reports about her Thursday 16 June ascent, belayed by Niccolò Bartoli, of Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (Dolomites), first ascended by Alexander Huber in 1999. Mingolla and Bartoli descended from where the route joins the classic Cassin due to poor conditions
Nepal considering Everest Base Camp move due to global warming
18/06/2022 - Environment
Nepal considering Everest base Camp move due to global warming
The BBC reports that the government of Nepal is considering plans to move Everest base Camp off the retreating Khumbu glacier due to global warming
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
15/06/2022 - Alpinism
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
Last summer Austrian climbers Benedikt Hiebl and Barbara Vigl made the first ascent of Erebor, an 11-pitch climb on the SE Face of Arnplattenspitze (2171m) in the Wetterstein massif. Vigl reports
Shaue Sar climbed in Karakorum by Philipp Brugger, Tomas Franchini, Lukas Waldner
13/06/2022 - Alpinism
Shaue Sar climbed in Karakorum by Philipp Brugger, Tomas Franchini, Lukas Waldner
Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini reports about the first ascent of the virgin Shaue Sar (6653m) in Karakorum, Pakistan, first ascended on 27/05/2022 with Philipp Brugger and Lukas Waldner. Franchini also soloed the unclimbed peaks Gypsy Sar (5810m) and Croz von Zartgurben (4650m).
Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander
08/06/2022 - Alpinism
Full Moon Fever on Mount Hunter in Alaska established by August Franzen, Clint Helander
From 13 to 16 May 2022 the Alaskan alpinists August Franzen and Clint Helander established 'Full Moon Fever' (AK 6, M7, A1, AI4), a huge new mixed climb up the West Buttress of Mount Hunter (4442m) in Alaska.
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
06/06/2022 - Alpinism
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
From 23 - 27 May 2022 David Allfrey, Whit Magro and Graham Zimmerman established a new alpine, big wall route on the Northwest Face of Kichatna Spire in the Alaska Range. They named the 950m climb 'The Pace of Comfort' and graded it VI 5.10, A3+, M6, 70° snow.
Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm
01/06/2022 - Alpinism
Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm
From 17 April to 21 May 2022 Polish mountaineer Marek Raganowicz climbed a new route solo on Polar Sun Arm, the huge buttress that guards Polar Sun Spire on Baffin Island in Canada. MikroKozmik Variations was climbed over 35 days past difficulties up to VII, A4+, M5 and, after...
Michaela Kiersch nails New Base Line at Magic Wood, Switzerland
30/05/2022 - Climbing
Michaela Kiersch nails New base Line at Magic Wood, Switzerland
American rock climber Michaela Kiersch has repeated New base Line, the 8B+ boulder problem at Magic Wood in Switzerland.
Surreal and magical. David Göttler on Everest without supplementary oxygen
26/05/2022 - Interviews
Surreal and magical. David Göttler on Everest without supplementary oxygen
Interview with German alpinist David Göttler who at 9:45am on 21 May 2022 reached the summit of Everest without supplementary oxygen. This is the 43-year-old's sixth 8000er, after Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and Makalu.
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2022 this weekend in Val di Landro, Dolomites
25/05/2022 - Events
Dolorock Climbing Festival 2022 this weekend in Val di Landro, Dolomites
From 27 to 29 May 2022 the 9th Dolorock Climbing Festival will take place in Val di Landro, Italy. Open to all, this is the biggest climbing meeting in the Dolomites, located a stone’s throw from the Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
David Göttler summits Everest without supplementary oxygen
22/05/2022 - Alpinism
David Göttler summits Everest without supplementary oxygen
On 21 May 2022, 43-year-old German alpinist David Göttler reached the summit of Everest without supplementary oxygen. This is is sixth 8000er, after Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and Makalu.
Jugal Spire in Nepal climbed by Tim Miller, Paul Ramsden
18/05/2022 - Alpinism
Jugal Spire in Nepal climbed by Tim Miller, Paul Ramsden
Interview with British mountaineer Paul Ramsden who with Tim Miller completed an alpine style first ascent of The Phantom Line (1200m, ED+) up the north face of a previously unclimbed and unnamed 6563m peak now called Jugal Spire in the Jugal Himal region of Nepal
Eder Lomba Lopez de Ipiña repeats Rainman 9b at Malham
17/05/2022 - Climbing
Eder Lomba Lopez de Ipiña repeats Rainman 9b at Malham
On Friday 13 May 2022 Basque rock climber Eder Lomba Lopez de Ipiña made he first repeat of Rainman, at 9b the hardest sport climb in Britain and located at Malham.