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Gerard Pailheiret, ice climbing interview
25/01/2008 - Interviews
Gerard Pailheiret, ice climbing interview
Interview by Elio Bonfanti with the French mountain guide Gerard Pailheiret who has always carried out been a tireless promoter of ice climbing.
Cerro Torre: Patagonian Democracy
14/09/2007 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre: Patagonian Democracy
On 14/02/2007 circa 40 mountaineers held an assembly at El Chaltén in Argentina’s "Los Glaciares" National Park to debate about the future if the expansion bolts on the 1970 Maestri “Compressor route” up Cerro Torre. Report and thoughts by Vicente Labate
Svalbard Atomfjella new routes in Spitzbergen climbing expedition
22/08/2007 - Alpinism
Svalbard Atomfjella new routes in Spitzbergen climbing expedition
In April 2007 a mixed Slovenian – Swiss - German team headed to the Atomfjella mountains in Spitzbergen, Norway where they made numerous mixed first ascents.
Alexander Huber frees Pan Aroma 8c on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
08/08/2007 - Climbing
Alexander Huber frees Pan Aroma 8c on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites
On 26/07/2007 Alexander Huber made the first ascent of 'Pan Aroma' 8c through the great roof up the North Face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Gasherbrum II, Unterkircher and Bernasconi climb virgin North Face
23/07/2007 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II, Unterkircher and Bernasconi climb virgin North Face
On 20/07 the Italians Karl Unterkircher and Daniele Bernasconi reached the summit of Gasherbrum II (8035m) via the virgin North Face, climbing a beautiful route and resolving one of the most famous problems in the Himalaya.
Martina Cufar: rock climbing in Yosemite, Indian Creek and more
05/07/2007 - Climbing
Martina Cufar: rock climbing in Yosemite, Indian Creek and more
From 15 April to 15 June Martina Cufar travelled to the U.S.A. for her first taste of Indian Creek, Yosemite, Tuolome Meadows and the Needles...
Spitzbergen climbing Expedition to the Atomfjella mountains
07/06/2007 - Alpinism
Spitzbergen climbing Expedition to the Atomfjella mountains
In April a mixed Slovenian – Swiss - German headed to Spitzbergen in Norway where they made numerous mixed first ascents.
'Osa, ma non troppo', Cerro Cota 2000 (Paine, Patagonia)
21/02/2007 - Alpinism
'Osa, ma non troppo', Cerro Cota 2000 (Paine, Patagonia)
From 21 - 26 January 2007 the Italians Elio Orlandi, Michele Cagol, Fabio Leoni and Rolando Larcher made the first ascent of "Osa ma non troppo", a 700m line up the E Face of Cerro Cota 2000 (Torres del Paine, Patagonia). A beautiful route, great company and a fantastic adventure...
Piolet d'or 2006 awarded to Prezelj and Lorencic for Chomo Lhari
29/01/2007 - Alpinism
Piolet d'or 2006 awarded to Prezelj and Lorencic for Chomo Lhari
On 26 January 2007 Marko Prezelj and Boris Lorencic from Slovenia were awarded the "Golden ice axe" for their new route on Chomo Lhari. Pavle Kozjek was awarded the Spectators Choice for his new route climbed solo up Cho Oyu. This was the 16th edition of the mountaineering award, created...
Baffin 2006, the island at the edge of the world
28/12/2006 - Alpinism
Baffin 2006, the island at the edge of the world
Polar bears, icebergs, a sailing boat, whales and a plethora of unclimbed rock and thousands of new routes to be climbed...In mid August 2006 the Italian Mountain Guides Michele Maggioni and Marco Zaninetti set off with Cristina, Giovanni and the Arctic Guide Kim to the remote Baffin Island in search...
Guvercinlik Valley, Turkey: new routes for Sterni, Florit, Larcher and Oviglia
14/09/2006 - Climbing
Guvercinlik Valley, Turkey: new routes for Sterni, Florit, Larcher and Oviglia
During the first half of August 2006 the Italians Mauro Florit, Marco Sterni, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia traveled to Turkey's Guvercinlik Valley in the Ala Daglar massif where they established four new routes.
Alexander Odintsov - interview after winning the Piolet d'Or 2004
01/03/2005 - Interviews
Alexander Odintsov - interview after winning the Piolet d'Or 2004
Interview with the Russian expedition leader who received the Piolet d'Or 2004 for the first direct ascent of the North face of Jannu.
Russian success for Piolet d'Or 2004, House wins spectators award.
28/02/2005 - Events
Russian success for Piolet d'Or 2004, House wins spectators award.
The prestigious Piolet d'Or 2004 promoted by Montagne Magazine was won by the Russian team for its ascent of Jannu. Steve House won the spectators award for his solitary ascent of K7.
Cerro Torre West Face 30th anniversary
04/11/2004 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre West Face 30th anniversary
Last week the Italian Ragni di Lecco celebrated the 30th anniversary of the first ascent of the emblem of Patagonian mountaineering, the West Face of Cerro Torre.
Switzerland's Magic Wood at risk
24/05/2004 - Climbing
Switzerland's Magic Wood at risk
Bernd Zangerl invites all to respect the Magic Wood bouldering area close to Ausserferrera, Switzerland
Bubu Bole and Anna Torretta dry tooling at Ueschinen
25/02/2004 - Alpinism
Bubu Bole and Anna Torretta dry tooling at Ueschinen
Mauro Bubu Bole repeats No limits M12+ and Anna Torretta climbs Vertical Limits M12 at Ueschinen, Switzerland