78 News found

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New climb on iconic Campanile di Val Montanaia (Dolomites) by Fabio De Cesero, Luca Vallata
01/10/2025 - Alpinism
New climb on iconic Campanile di Val Montanaia (Dolomites) by Fabio De Cesero, Luca Vallata
The report by Luca Vallata, a mountain guide from Belluno, who together with Fabio De Cesero established 'La Poderosa', a route that climbs the famous North Overhangs of Campanile di Val Montanaia in the Friulian Dolomites. The climb is dedicated 'to all the good people in Gaza and the West...
Civetta North-West, the new guidebook by Alessandro Baù & Luca Vallata
13/08/2025 - Book-press
Civetta North-West, the new guidebook by Alessandro Baù & Luca Vallata
The climbing guidebook 'Civetta North-West' by Alessandro Baù and Luca Vallata has recently been published by Idea Montagna. With kind permission from the authors, we're publishing the introduction to the 'Wall of Walls' of the Dolomites, along with the route description and topo of the classic 'Solleder-Lettenbauer’, first ascended by Gustav Lettenbauer and Emil Solleder...
New climb on Nevado Cashan in Peru dedicated to Carlos Suárez
10/08/2025 - Alpinism
New climb on Nevado Cashan in Peru dedicated to Carlos Suárez
On 26 and 27 July 2025 Manuel López and Alex Úbeda established a new mixed climb on the northwest face of Nevado Cashan (5686m) in the Cordillera Blanca range of the Peruvian Andes. The route is dedicated to the famous Spanish mountaineer Carlos Suarez, who perished in a base jumping...
Solleder-Lettenbauer on Civetta celebrates 100th anniversary
07/08/2025 - Alpinism
Solleder-Lettenbauer on Civetta celebrates 100th anniversary
Today, 7 August 2025, the 'Solleder-Lettenbauer' route on the northwest face of Civetta in the Dolomites turns 100 years old. First ascended in a single day by Gustav Lettenbauer and Emil Solleder on 7 August 1925, this climb is renowned for being the first sixth grade route in the Alps....
New climbs in Algeria's Hoggar mountains
20/03/2025 - Alpinism
New climbs in Algeria's Hoggar mountains
Luca Vallata reports about a climbing trip to the Hoggar massif in Algeria. With Richard Felderer and Federico Martinelli the trio repeated and established several routes; the standout climb was the first ascent of 'Les Hommes Bleus' on Dôme de l'Éléphant in the Tesnou group.
'Via Teti' added to Cima Busazza in Italy by Emanuele Andreozzi, Andrea Gremes
10/03/2025 - Alpinism
'Via Teti' added to Cima Busazza in Italy by Emanuele Andreozzi, Andrea Gremes
The report by Andrea Gremes, who on 4 March 2025 teamed up with Emanuele Andreozzi to make the first ascent of 'Via Teti', a mixed climb on the north face of Cima Busazza in the Adamello-Presanella group, Italy.
'Gringos Locos' on Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia finally completed by Matteo Della Bordella, Dario Eynard, Mirco Grasso
03/03/2025 - Alpinism
'Gringos Locos' on Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia finally completed by Matteo Della Bordella, Dario Eynard, Mirco Grasso
On the west face of Cerro Piergiorgio in Patagonia, Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, Dario Eynard, and Mirco Grasso have completed Gringos Locos. The route was first attempted in 1995 by Maurizio Giordani and Luca Maspes, who had managed to climb more than three-quarters up the face.
Watch Marco Sappa repeat 'Sans Liberté' on Pic Adolphe Rey (Mont Blanc)
30/01/2025 - Alpinism
Watch Marco Sappa repeat 'Sans Liberté' on Pic Adolphe Rey (Mont Blanc)
The video of mountain guide Marco Sappa repeating the legendary Stevie Haston climb 'Sans Liberté' on Pic Adolphe Rey in the Mont Blanc massif.
Jordi Corominas to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2024
12/10/2024 - Alpinism
Jordi Corominas to receive Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award 2024
Spanish alpinist Jordi Corominas has been named as 2024 recipient of the Piolets d'Or Carrière. He will receive the 16th Walter Bonatti - Piolets d’Or Lifetime Achievement Award at the international festival in San Martino di Castrozza (Dolomites, Italy) in December.
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces
16/09/2024 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2024 announces "big list" of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the 'big list' of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2023. The honoured ascents will receive the Piolets d'Or 2024 award during the celebration at San Martino di Castrozza (Italy) from 8 - 11 December 2024.
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
09/09/2024 - Alpinism
Odissea Borealis, the new Greenland big wall by Matteo Della Bordella, Alex Gammeter, Silvan Schüpbach, Symon Welfringer
The preliminary details of the climbing expedition to Greenland by Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter, which resulted in the first ascent of 'Odissea Borealis' (1200m, 35 pitches, 7b) on the hitherto unclimbed NW Face of Drøneren
New big wall climbed by fair means on virgin Drøneren in Greenland
21/08/2024 - Alpinism
New big wall climbed by fair means on virgin Drøneren in Greenland
In Greenland Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter have succeeded in establishing a new route on the previously unclimbed northwest face of Drøneren: 1200 meters, 35 pitches, maximum difficulty 7b. The peak, located about 300 kilometers south of Tasiilaq on the island's southeast coast, was reached...
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
20/05/2024 - Alpinism
Big new climbs on Mantok 1 and Mount Charles in Alaska by Fred Caloggero, Joseph Hobby
Between 24 and 28 April 2024, Fred Caloggero (40) and American Mountain Guide Joseph Hobby (35) made the first ascent of a new route on Mantok 1 above the Yentna Glacier in Alaska. Their 'Small Talk Couloir' (1200m M4R 70° ice/snow) is only the second ascent of the mountain. Following...
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
02/04/2024 - Interviews
Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll completes solo Torres del Paine skyline traverse
Interview with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll after the first traverse of the four main peaks of the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia, Chile. The Belgian alpinist climbed Torre Sur, Torre Central, Torre Norte and La Peineta solo from 23 - 26 February 2024 and called the enchainment 'Travesía Doble M'.
Difficult new multi-pitch alpine sport route in Aladağlar, Turkey
06/12/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new multi-pitch alpine sport route in Aladağlar, Turkey
Seb Bush from Italy, Simon Smith and Mike Turner from the UK have recently established 'Pretty reckless cats' a hard multi-pitch rock climb on the northwest face of Kizilin Basì in the Aladağlar National Park in southern Turkey. The 300m climb was established ground-up with the use of aid and...
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from 14 to 16 November

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